Bespoke NYC

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by lockey2k, Sep 25, 2006.

  1. Tomasso

    Tomasso Senior member

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    That being said, if I paid say $135 for a shirt. Would the fabric be the same, better, or worse than a comparably priced rtw shirt (taking into account discounts at FB or C21)?

    The quality of fabric found on a RTW shirt would probably be a bit better than that of a similarly priced MTM. Add a steep discount and the gap widens. That said, I'd rather have a well fitted shirt of average fabric than a poorly fitted shirt of the best fabric. Fit is king.
     
  2. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    That being said, if I paid say $135 for a shirt. Would the fabric be the same, better, or worse than a comparably priced rtw shirt (taking into account discounts at FB or C21)?

    Thanks in advance.


    the same sort of fabric that i use in a $135 shirt could be found C21 or FB for as low as $25. Remember. Most companies that sell the better discounters are usually cutting up excess fabric inventory to keep the factory busy. or just want to make the stuff disapear. Some discount stores have programs where less expensive fabric is used.

    Stitch wise. Most Better RTW shirts have comparable needlework.

    The advantage of Custom /MTM shirts is fit. and details.

    On average a $135 shirt from me could run anywhere from $80-$170 depending on the label and the store.

    Carl
     
  3. marc237

    marc237 Senior member

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    Part of what makes Carl so wonderful is his complete honesty. I have been to his shop. He is completely self-effacing and a real nice guy. It is evident also that he knows his craft and enjoys his work.
     
  4. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    Mark, doesn't Bruce Cameron Clark use Paris? You can go to the factory directly and significantly less for the same quality shirt.
     
  5. TimelessRider

    TimelessRider Senior member

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    (originally posted on AAAC)
    Paris Custom Shirts - less expensive than Alex but with a wide selection of fabrics (though, to the best of my knowledge, no vintage ones). Atam is extremely cordial just make sure that you write things down for him and give him pictures of what you want. He claims to have a photographic memory and while that may be true, he doesn't have a similar ability with spoken instructions yet refuses to write things down. Luckily he's very flexible about what he will change during the fitting pricess and extremely pleasant to work with. There is only one fault that I could find in his sales manner - if you visit, it will become very obvious in the firtst five minutes. The quality of construction is very high - I've never seen a sloppy stitch or some shortcut taken. Atam is very good at designing collars - especially ones that you may not think of for yourself. If you do try them, I would recommend letting him do what he wants in this regard at least on a couple of shirts. Prices nominally start at $250. I avoided the most expensive cloths and came out with an average around $320.

    Agree with everything Cantabrigian says. Fantastic construction and beautiful shirts. Just watch out for the plastic buttons.

    CEGO - Carl participates on the forum as Shirtmaven. Another guy who has shared a vast amount of knowledge with the people here. He has legions of satisfied customers. Prices for cloth from swatch books is the same as or in some cases slightly higher than Paris/ Geneva. But if you go to his shop and look at the fabric he has on hand and rummage through some end bolts he has, you can get a great deal. I've gotten four shirts now and have been happy with the results.
    CEGO is excellent value for the money and Carl is a great guy to work with.

    Mark, doesn't Bruce Cameron Clark use Paris? ...
    At Paris I've seen a tall, lanky gentleman with wild greyish hair, whom I believe to be Bruce Cameron Clark. Can anyone confirm that the description matches?
     
  6. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    At Paris I've seen a tall, lanky gentleman with wild greyish hair, whom I believe to be Bruce Cameron Clark. Can anyone confirm that the description matches?
    Yep.
     
  7. Film Noir Buff

    Film Noir Buff Senior member

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    Agree with everything Cantabrigian says. Fantastic construction and beautiful shirts. Just watch out for the plastic buttons.
    I hope youre not insinuating Paris uses plastic buttons? No, Im sure youre not.
     
  8. Mark Seitelman

    Mark Seitelman Senior member

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    Mark, doesn't Bruce Cameron Clark use Paris? You can go to the factory directly and significantly less for the same quality shirt.


    Yes, I think so. But you don't get Bruce unless you go to Bruce!

    Bruce is an excellent fitter and stylist. Best shirts that I have.
     
  9. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    When I fist started in business I worked with one of the gambert factories as Well as Mark(Atam's Father) at Paris. This is over 20 years ago.
    He used to use the ugliest Plastic button available. I hated the button, and ended up giving him my own pearl buttons to use. They had other buttons, but the clear plastic one was what was the default button.

    They became quite good friends with a fellow in the button business,since retired. From that time on, the buttons improved.

    The tall fellow with the wild gray hair is Bruce.


    Carl
     
  10. lockey2k

    lockey2k Senior member

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    the same sort of fabric that i use in a $135 shirt could be found C21 or FB for as low as $25. Remember. Most companies that sell the better discounters are usually cutting up excess fabric inventory to keep the factory busy. or just want to make the stuff disapear. Some discount stores have programs where less expensive fabric is used.

    Stitch wise. Most Better RTW shirts have comparable needlework.

    The advantage of Custom /MTM shirts is fit. and details.

    On average a $135 shirt from me could run anywhere from $80-$170 depending on the label and the store.

    Carl


    Thanks for the info. ^___^
     
  11. new obsession

    new obsession Senior member

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    GO TO CARL [​IMG] GO TO CARL [​IMG] GO TO CARL [​IMG]
    GO TO CARL [​IMG]

    As a matter of fact, I have to GO TO CARL, and pick up a shirt.... damn this job...
     
  12. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Senior member

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    Is CEGO bespoke or MTM?

    i.e. will there be fittings for the shirts, are my uneven shoulders going to be taken care of, etc.
     
  13. whoopee

    whoopee Senior member

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    Carl both MTM and bespoke. The latter is done by independent makers. , of which I know of a couple old Chinese shirtmakers, one or two from South America, and Paris. THey make a sample shirt and alter from there. They make a pattern; it is bespoke, and figuration issues that can't be dealt with in MTM shouldn't be a problem.
     
  14. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Senior member

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    whoopee, sorry, I don't understand. Carl does MTM and bespoke, but he outsources the bespoke operation?
     
  15. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    I would also add that while Paris makes a very nice shirt, the customer service is, at least in my experience, rather lacking.

    I ordered six shirts about six months ago, paid for the full order five months ago and have yet to receive so much as an advanced sample. My initial instructions were pretty much disregarded in terms of styling and Atam has offered a number of excuses for the significant delays ranging from - 'I tried to call you but the number didn't work' to 'the sample must have been lost in the mail.' They may be valid excuses but as they pile up, they seem more along the lines of the dog ate my homework.

    I'm willing to cut the guy some slack since he and his wife just had a baby but I'm getting to the point of asking for a refund and going to Geneva - which is a bit cheaper for what I hear is very similar in quality.
     

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