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Bespoke NYC

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by lockey2k, Sep 25, 2006.

  1. lockey2k

    lockey2k Senior member

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    I've heard great things about CEGO for bespoke shirts, but I'm curious as to other shirt makers and people's experiences. I found some of the following:

    La Rukico Tailors
    Michael Andrews Bespoke
    David Lance
    Any others?

    Thanks in advance.
     


  2. Tomasso

    Tomasso Senior member

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    I've used only T&A in NY and wouldn't recommend them.

    I've heard good things about both Paris and Geneva shirtmakers.And, then there's Kabbaz.
     


  3. Will

    Will Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I used T&A for some years and I stopped. No other NY shirtmaker experiences.
     


  4. Panzeraxe II

    Panzeraxe II Senior member

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    I use Ascot Chang and have been very happy with them
     


  5. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    (originally posted on AAAC)

    In NYC, the main options are:

    Alexander Kabbaz - happens to live on eastern Long Island. (The people there have some snooty name for that area but I can't remember what it is.[​IMG] ) Generally considered to be - if not the - one of the best in the world. Some articles to that effect: here and also here. I've never tried his shirts due to financial considerations - and I'm not particularly frugal. But he participates on the forum and obviously has a passion for his craft and a great depth of knowledge of fitting and fabrics. I understand the cloth selection to be beyond extensive. Buttons are hand sewn as a matter of course. Anecdotally, there is no real limit to the number of fittings he will go through at the start to get the pattern down.

    Paris Custom Shirts - less expensive than Alex but with a wide selection of fabrics (though, to the best of my knowledge, no vintage ones). Atam is extremely cordial just make sure that you write things down for him and give him pictures of what you want. He claims to have a photographic memory and while that may be true, he doesn't have a similar ability with spoken instructions yet refuses to write things down. Luckily he's very flexible about what he will change during the fitting pricess and extremely pleasant to work with. There is only one fault that I could find in his sales manner - if you visit, it will become very obvious in the firtst five minutes. The quality of construction is very high - I've never seen a sloppy stitch or some shortcut taken. Atam is very good at designing collars - especially ones that you may not think of for yourself. If you do try them, I would recommend letting him do what he wants in this regard at least on a couple of shirts. Prices nominally start at $250. I avoided the most expensive cloths and came out with an average around $320.

    Geneva Shirtmakers - no personal experience. Similar in Price to Paris - perhaps a little lower. Similar in quality overall, though they are generally ranked ever so slightly behind Paris. No personal experience so just going off the collected wisdom of the forum that I picked up while researching the question.

    CEGO - Carl participates on the forum as Shirtmaven. Another guy who has shared a vast amount of knowledge with the people here. He has legions of satisfied customers. Prices for cloth from swatch books is the same as or in some cases slightly higher than Paris/ Geneva. But if you go to his shop and look at the fabric he has on hand and rummage through some end bolts he has, you can get a great deal. I've gotten four shirts now and have been happy with the results.

    Ascot Chang - Don't know much about them. The people that go there tend to be happy with the product. I don't know if the shirts are made here or in Hong Kong. I understand the fabric selection to be limited compared to some of the others I mentioned but that all the basics are covered. Perhaps someone with some more experience could comment.

    Here is an article you may be interested in. It is somehwat dated. Sulka no longer exists and I am not sure if Leonard still does shirts - he's a member of the forum and could perhaps fill us in himself.

    Additonally you also have the visiting London guys and T&A who can measure you here but the shirts are made in England.

    Hope that is somewhat helpful.
     


  6. whoopee

    whoopee Senior member

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    I'll second Cantabrigian's points on Paris and CEGO, except for the part about Atam's refusal to write things down. He was pretty diligent about noting my preferences.
     


  7. Master Shake

    Master Shake Senior member

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    I am a very happy client of Carl's at CEGO. He makes sure the shirts fit you right, and is very accomodating. Highly knowledgable about all things shirt-related and a great eye for what works best on the client. Very quick turnaround, and the prices are very reasonable.
     


  8. lockey2k

    lockey2k Senior member

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    I am a very happy client of Carl's at CEGO. He makes sure the shirts fit you right, and is very accomodating. Highly knowledgable about all things shirt-related and a great eye for what works best on the client. Very quick turnaround, and the prices are very reasonable.

    How does CEGO's fabric compare to say that used in a Canali or other high end rtw shirt?
     


  9. grimslade

    grimslade Senior member

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    Carl has all kinds of fabrics; probably hundreds. There's no simple answer to that question, but you get what you pay for.
     


  10. Panzeraxe II

    Panzeraxe II Senior member

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    I can talk about Ascot Chang - the firm is on 57th, off 5th with a minimum order of 4 shirts. I've ordered 12 shirts from them (nothing fancy - all Thomas Mason Silverline). While the shirts are made in HK, the NYC shop is willing to make one shirt initially and conduct as many fittings as necessary before the balance of the order is processed. I was kind of a pain, and had 4 fittings done to the first shirt, and not once, did they complain.

    My shirts fit perfectly and the collars, in particular, are beautiful. The price is reasonable as well ($200 / shirt for the Silverline's), and the service is friendly, professional and very very quick (2 week turnaround!). I've had custom shirts from Charvet (through Saks), Dege, and Jantzen (not in the same league I know), and Ascot Chang has been the best. Highly recommended.
     


  11. Mark Seitelman

    Mark Seitelman Senior member

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    Can recommend from personal experience:

    1. Cego. Carl is fun to work with. Is strictly a shirtmaker and does some costume work for Broadway. Most reasonably priced of the lot.

    2. Turnbull & Asser. Most beautiful collection of cloths. "The British look." You must be patient, and don't expect quick turnaround. You are also working through a few degrees of separation in that the NYC fitter e-mails the order to UK where the shirt is made. Six shirt minimum to start, thereafter no minimum. Expensive.

    3. Bruce Cameron Clark. Bruce makes an excellent shirt through the best local factory in NYC. He has been fitting and making shirts for years since he worked at Tommy Nutter in Savile Row. His fitting and styling is excellent. E.g., his three button cuff for me is 3.5" rather than the standard 3". Same for French cuffs. Turnaround is quick. Bruce is a barrel of fun. No minimum. Expensive.
     


  12. Panzeraxe II

    Panzeraxe II Senior member

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    Mark,

    A couple of questions:

    1. Does Bruce Cameron Clark make a muslin shirt, or does he conduct fittings on the 1st shirt in the order? Also, could you please comment on his pricing?

    2. How was the end result with Turnbull? - Did the shirts fit well?

    Thanks,

    Panzer
     


  13. Mark Seitelman

    Mark Seitelman Senior member

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    Mark,

    A couple of questions:

    1. Does Bruce Cameron Clark make a muslin shirt, or does he conduct fittings on the 1st shirt in the order? Also, could you please comment on his pricing?

    2. How was the end result with Turnbull? - Did the shirts fit well?

    Thanks,

    Panzer



    1. Bruce has the initial shirt made. He makes changes on that shirt. Prices are about $400+ last time that I checked.

    2. My Turnbull shirts were ordered before a weight loss, therefore, they are all big even though some have been darted after the loss. I had one shirt made about 1.5 years ago which fit well. Generally, I was satisified with the fit although I think that Bruce's fit is better.

    Good luck.
     


  14. Panzeraxe II

    Panzeraxe II Senior member

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  15. lockey2k

    lockey2k Senior member

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    Carl has all kinds of fabrics; probably hundreds. There's no simple answer to that question, but you get what you pay for.

    That being said, if I paid say $135 for a shirt. Would the fabric be the same, better, or worse than a comparably priced rtw shirt (taking into account discounts at FB or C21)?

    Thanks in advance.
     


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