Bespoke: Multiple in-house tailors vs. One tailor who makes every aspect. Rarity?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by musicguy, May 16, 2012.

  1. musicguy

    musicguy Senior member

    Messages:
    4,220
    Likes Received:
    80
    Joined:
    Oct 1, 2008
    Location:
    Santiago de Chile
    I was in a discussion with another member here regarding how bespoke tailors have more than one tailor in house to do different aspects.

    It is my understanding that nearly all tailors have more than one person who make different aspects of the suit nowadays. I'm pretty sure all the big houses, all Saville Row tailors, Rubinacci, etc, have at least a few tailors, if not around at least a half dozen who work on different aspects of the suit.

    I don't seem to be bothered by this. In fact, it may be better to have specialists make different aspects of the suit. Someone who cuts, does button holes, etc. I know that even Kabbaz, whom I assume has a rather limited output, has someone who specifically makes the button holes on his shirts. In fact, I think it's nice that more tailors are being employed.

    I'm not referring to outsourcing tailoring, but tailors that work in-house.

    So how rare is it to have one tailor who makes the entire suit? Do you think having multiple in-house tailors is a bad thing?

    What about in the past? The so-called old school style of tailoring.
     
  2. F. Corbera

    F. Corbera Senior member

    Messages:
    4,908
    Likes Received:
    1,153
    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2010
    Specialization is by far the norm, rather than the exception.
     
  3. Alexander

    Alexander Senior member

    Messages:
    130
    Likes Received:
    22
    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2011
    Location:
    Chile
    Well let's see

    [VIDEO][/VIDEO]

    [VIDEO][/VIDEO]
     
    Last edited: May 16, 2012
  4. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

    Messages:
    4,741
    Likes Received:
    1,839
    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2006
    Location:
    London
    I think it's extreme rare to have a one-man tailoring band. Is that guy Des Merrion still around? I think he did everything himself.

    It doesn't bother me at all that multiple people are involved. I don't even care which house they work from as long as things turn out well.

    In the past, I imagine it was easier to find competent workers for this sort of thing so I'd imagine it was certainly no more common to have one guy do everything
     
  5. ykurtz

    ykurtz Senior member

    Messages:
    131
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2007
    My guy measures, cuts all the cloth (jacket/vest/trousers) and makes the jacket. He has someone else make the trousers, someone else sew the button holes, and someone else work the lapels.
     
  6. F. Corbera

    F. Corbera Senior member

    Messages:
    4,908
    Likes Received:
    1,153
    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2010
    

    Why, are you looking for a new tailor?
     
  7. Metlin

    Metlin Senior member

    Messages:
    3,043
    Likes Received:
    13
    Joined:
    Feb 25, 2008
    What about relatively smaller tailoring operations (e.g. Drinkwaters)? I can't imagine a smaller house outsourcing much of it, especially given the relatively low margins to begin with (now, arguably, I only speak from anecdotal experience, not empirical evidence).
     
  8. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

    Messages:
    4,741
    Likes Received:
    1,839
    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2006
    Location:
    London

    I haven't kept up with Dopey's pet projects like I ought to have.
     
  9. F. Corbera

    F. Corbera Senior member

    Messages:
    4,908
    Likes Received:
    1,153
    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2010
    

    Drinkwater's is a lot of nice things, but it is not a tailoring operation.
     
  10. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    14,577
    Likes Received:
    1,911
    Joined:
    Oct 12, 2006
    

    Weird. I am wearing a Des Merrion suit today and was reminded how he was really my favorite when it came to the trousers. Today's was my first from him and I like it. I liked the second one even better - that was from a lightweight Lesser pinstripe, so it is coming into season.

    As you may or may not recall he had a brush with the fuzz but is free again. I think he has had to scale back his business ambitions for a while.
     
  11. Macallan

    Macallan Senior member

    Messages:
    837
    Likes Received:
    32
    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2010
    Location:
    London
    Personally, I would prefer multiple tailors; however, if the end-result is the same then it does not matter - the saying 'Jack of all trades, master of none' probably best sums it up for me, let the trouser-maker make the trousers and so forth.
     
  12. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

    Messages:
    4,741
    Likes Received:
    1,839
    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2006
    Location:
    London

    Wait, really?

    I've missed so much.
     
  13. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    14,577
    Likes Received:
    1,911
    Joined:
    Oct 12, 2006
    Last edited: May 18, 2012
  14. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

    Messages:
    4,741
    Likes Received:
    1,839
    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2006
    Location:
    London
    Wow - there you go...

    Gun running in the London Lounge.

    Makes you wonder how the Armoury guys came up with that name.
     
  15. mmkn

    mmkn Senior member

    Messages:
    1,442
    Likes Received:
    30
    Joined:
    Apr 16, 2007
    ^ The proper term is "afficionado."

    - M

    (Although the sawed off one would have taken it to the next level where people would be looking for you.)
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by