• Welcome to our newest affiliate vendor, Threads of Apollo We are very happy to welcome our newest affiliate vendor, Threads of Apollo, a sustainable leather goods company based out of Vancouver, BC, Canada, making premium, made-to-order, water-repellent leather jackets and gloves. .Please help me give them a warm welcome in their new thread.
  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Bespoke/MTM in NYC?

loll8capital

Member
Joined
Oct 8, 2015
Messages
9
Reaction score
3
Yes, my shoulders do slope and my posture is bad. I have a relatively large chest but small shoulders—I think this is from lifting weights (+chest) and running a lot (-shoulders and everywhere else) and I think this makes it tricky. the 36 in Greenfield was better in shoulders but also popping in the chest.

Greenfield also noted that my left shoulder droops, and in looking at the photos above you can see that the jacket hits at a different point on my left and right hand.

Maybe Greenfield or Vestrucci is the way to go—both have higher level of customization and are at or under $2k.
 

Bronze Age Sartorial

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 2, 2021
Messages
73
Reaction score
50
Thanks, all, for the advice. I stopped by The Armoury as well as Sartoria Vestrucci yesterday to check out what they had. (No Man Walks Alone is still closed—they said likely until June which, given my timeframe, may not work unless I'm sure I'm not doing MTM or bespoke).

At The Armoury I tried on the various Ring RTW products. They are impressive in that the fit seems pretty versatile and the quality very high for $1600/suit.
View attachment 1594422

It felt fine but I didn't love it. The way the jacket draped felt awkward; not sure I can describe why but my focus in general seems to be on the shape of the chest & shoulders as well as, especially, the shape of the waist. I don't like it when your attention is drawn to a suppressed waist as I feel it interrupts the "line," which I want to look "long" but also "easy." It also seemed a bit too long, and not sure if there's anything they can do with an OTR suit for that. Might help to compare to the others...

They also showed me samples in my size (46) from two MTO options which were described as "Milanese" and "Neapolitan" (Orazio Luciano?). It was instantly clear that the "Milanese" option was not was I was looking for. The "Neapolitan" suit I liked a lot. The silhouette felt right and the jacket moved better with my body (perhaps the latter has to do with the less-structured aspect of Neapolitan tailoring. The sales rep suggested it had to do with the quality of the construction; he quoted me $3500 for MTO, which, at double the price of the Ring suit, is significant). I felt the jacket was clearly too long, though, as well as the lapels being slightly too big and too high.

View attachment 1594437
View attachment 1594440


On to Vestrucci.

I believe it was Tommaso Melani, who seems to own the brand, that I met with. Very nice guy and the space they have set up is very nice as well.

Their suits are more structured than the "Neapolitan" one offered at The Armoury, but less structured than the "Milanese" one, and as a whole I liked the suit and found it flattering. I tried on in two different sizes, 44 and 46; I liked how the 46 (light grey) fit in the waist but the shoulders and chest seemed a little big, and the jacket a tad long, while the 44 (navy) was a bit too tight in the waist but otherwise seemed to fit right. The pants (visible in the last two photos) were my favorite of the day with an elegant line created by the single pleat. None of the other suits had this and I think it helps me as I'm a runner and have longish/thin legs, small waist, and relatively fuller hips.

They said that with their MTO service the length of the jacket as well as the location of the buttonhole could be adjusted, but I'm not sure if this means truly adjusting the proportions or simply cutting off the bottom of the jacket. My sense is that the length of the 44 is about right, though, and changes to the shoulder and chest would be possible from that pattern.

I was quoted ~$2100 for MTO on these, or ~$3100 with hand stiching.


View attachment 1594461

View attachment 1594463
View attachment 1594464

View attachment 1594465
View attachment 1594466
View attachment 1594468


Anyone have comments / suggestions / critiques? My sense from having checked out these two spots, and having gravitated towards a softer and more Italian style, is that I'd find less success with the English / Ivy-style bespoke tailors mentioned. $3500 seems like a lot for the Armoury "Neapolitan" suit but it's not out of my price range and the suit felt really high quality; $2100 for Vestrucci MTO seems like a good deal as does the Ring suit at $1600. At the moment I'm leaning toward one of the first two but would be curious to get any feedback. And based on this, is there anywhere else in NYC I should check out?

Thanks again for all the advice, this has already been immensely helpful.
Have you checked out Alan Flusser’s shop? Their MTM program includes two fittings & starts around $2300.

Alan is retired but the dude who took over seems alright. I like the pinstripe suit Kirby Allison commissioned from them (featured on his YT channel).

 
Last edited:

jonathanS

Distinguished Member
Joined
Sep 25, 2013
Messages
1,283
Reaction score
422
You could reach out to the guys at b&tailor & their MTM program in New York. I dont remember pricing, but should be about that. Their house style is similar to what you are looking for (between neapolitan and florentine).
 

clee1982

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Feb 22, 2009
Messages
23,125
Reaction score
10,393
they don't have EU44 for you to try at the Armoury? also since I assume you will be near mid town ish at certain point might as well try SuitSupply Jort, there is also Isaia on Upper East Side.

are you really set on 3 roll to 2 and unstructured? Or you're still open to try other things. How about just RLPL say in Gregory or Douglas. Thom Sweeney, not sure if I would recommend the "newer" Phineas Cole, but they do start to move everything into "soft"

I'm 5'7", 30 waist, and probably 29 waist back in the days..., I can pretty much take US36S/EU46S in everything. If you need to chop jacket length by say a inch then I say that's ok, anymore I would skip, though in general I don't think jacket is too long, might need to get sleeve length right first, else it always "feels too long" when you look at the mirror even when it's right (just roll it inside).
 

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

Featured Sponsor

Styleforum x S.E.H Kelly Balmacaan: Choose the Fabric

  • standard 5 — light and dark brown

    Votes: 8 6.5%
  • standard 7 — dark brown and charcoal

    Votes: 17 13.7%
  • wide 1 — charcoal and blue-grey

    Votes: 7 5.6%
  • wide 3 — barley and brown

    Votes: 5 4.0%
  • wide 5 — charcoal and dark navy

    Votes: 10 8.1%
  • wide 6 — charcoal and black

    Votes: 3 2.4%
  • wide 7 — dark green and black

    Votes: 29 23.4%
  • wide 8 — malt and dark brown

    Votes: 10 8.1%
  • wide 9 — blue-grey and charcoal

    Votes: 35 28.2%

Related Threads

Forum statistics

Threads
458,000
Messages
9,933,030
Members
206,991
Latest member
Edoard
Top