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Bespoke/MTM in NYC

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by leftover_salmon, Feb 7, 2011.

  1. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Speaking of China, there are the William Yu and WW Chan options.

    Does St Laurie still exist, and are they at all good these days? They used to fit the general description of what is needed.
     
  2. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    So what you're saying is that there are no tailors in NYC who can cut a decent suit in-house for less than $5k? (That's essentially all I'm asking.) Doesn't make any sense. But hey, I don't live there.

    Yes. There are. Winston Tailors (formerly know as Chipp)
    House style is trad and or trad-derived

    NY Times Article includes address

    http://cityroom.blogs.nytimes.com/20...certain-taste/
     
  3. GiltEdge

    GiltEdge Senior member

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    Yes. There are. Winston Tailors (formerly know as Chipp)
    House style is trad and or trad-derived

    NY Times Article includes address

    http://cityroom.blogs.nytimes.com/20...certain-taste/


    Pretty sure Chipp is going out of business...
     
  4. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Oh, no-- not again.

    Or is Paul just ready to retire?
     
  5. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    So what you're saying is that there are no tailors in NYC who can cut a decent suit in-house for less than $5k? (That's essentially all I'm asking.) Doesn't make any sense. But hey, I don't live there.

    Once you arrive in NYC, or at least once you start looking for housing, you will realize the amount of money that flows is different orders of magnitude than most places in the world. Why do you think there is so much talk about Chan and NSM if not for the dearth of affordable options?

    The number of options increase once you get to $ 2-3k but you are asking for considerably a lower price point.
     
  6. FranDCG

    FranDCG Active Member

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    Once you arrive in NYC, or at least once you start looking for housing, you will realize the amount of money that flows is different orders of magnitude than most places in the world. Why do you think there is so much talk about Chan and NSM if not for the dearth of affordable options?

    The number of options increase once you get to $ 2-3k but you are asking for considerably a lower price point.


    I know the OP made it clear he wanted to know about the $1.5k range of options, but would you, and anyone else, mind listing which makers would you consider to be best in that $2-3k range in NYC? I've searched around and have decided on Martin Greenfield for an upcoming order. Any thoughts? I assume the OP would be interested in some recommendations here as well after some of the responses his price points have generated...
     
  7. imageWIS

    imageWIS Senior member

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    You're pricing expectation is unrealistic. The big name NYC tailors charge $5-6k a suit. In your budget, you can do MTM, Mr. Ned, Ercole, or W.W. Chan. Being picky isn't an option unless you want to spend significantly more.

    I'm perplexed by the specificity of your geographical preference. There are so few good bespoke tailors in the U.S., nonetheless Manhattan, I'd think you'd be willing to sit on the subway a few extra stops to get to the right guy.


    Don't tell him how hard it is to get a breast wallet in NYC, he might just not move here!
     
  8. YoungAmerican

    YoungAmerican Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Shirtmaven himself will do you up some very nice shirts in your price range, and he is a class act to boot. CEGO Custom Shirtmakers.
     
    1 person likes this.
  9. leftover_salmon

    leftover_salmon Senior member

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    Once you arrive in NYC, or at least once you start looking for housing, you will realize the amount of money that flows is different orders of magnitude than most places in the world. Why do you think there is so much talk about Chan and NSM if not for the dearth of affordable options? The number of options increase once you get to $ 2-3k but you are asking for considerably a lower price point.
    Thanks. I'm not a fucking yokel, though. I just figured any OTR suit costs the same in NY as it does in any other major city, so why couldn't I find a tailor in the same ballpark as well? Seems out of whack. And why is everyone so fixated on the "Bespoke" part? I said "Bespoke/MTM" recognizing that true bespoke may be difficult/very expensive to find, but at the same time I want a little more personal service than Brooks Brothers MTM.
     
  10. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    Oh, no-- not again.

    Or is Paul just ready to retire?


    They're having trouble finding a new location.

    http://www.chipp2.com/blog/

    If it looks like they'll stay in business, you certainly can have a collaborative relationship.
    I am an old customer, from the 70s through the 90s. I stopped using them when I
    moved to CA and didn't get to New York very much. I still have some Chipp MTM
    jackets. They are quite distinctive in fabric and cut.
     
  11. jasonmarshalljazz

    jasonmarshalljazz Senior member

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    NYC
    Shirtmaven himself will do you up some very nice shirts in your price range, and he is a class act to boot. CEGO Custom Shirtmakers.

    +1
     
  12. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Thanks. I'm not a fucking yokel, though. I just figured any OTR suit costs the same in NY as it does in any other major city, so why couldn't I find a tailor in the same ballpark as well? Seems out of whack.

    1. Tailors have to pay rent, too.
    2. Bespoke tailors are rare these days. The few there are in the U.S. are largely concentrated in Manhattan, so they can charge a lot.

    And why is everyone so fixated on the "Bespoke" part? I said "Bespoke/MTM" recognizing that true bespoke may be difficult/very expensive to find, but at the same time I want a little more personal service than Brooks Brothers MTM.

    Because many of your demands are out-of-line for MTM. It is rare to get even a single fitting in MTM, nonetheless multiple ones. Afterall, the whole point of MTM is be a cost-effective alternative to RTW with increased customization. The suits are factory made, not bench made. So, generally speaking, a MTM seller will not stomach a re-cut if your suit is messed up and can't be fixed by alteration. He'll do whatever alterations allow him to keep tolerable margins, and then you can take it or leave it. If you leave it, he probably won't want to do business with you again. Thus you should always expect compromise when you go the route of MTM.
     
  13. Mark Seitelman

    Mark Seitelman Senior member

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    Pretty sure Chipp is going out of business...


    Not so according to a leading cloth merchant.

    Mr. Winston is just relocating because the landlord wants to consolidate space. I would imagine that he would settle in the Brooks Bros. "nabe."
     
  14. Mark Seitelman

    Mark Seitelman Senior member

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    * * *

    And why is everyone so fixated on the "Bespoke" part? I said "Bespoke/MTM" recognizing that true bespoke may be difficult/very expensive to find, but at the same time I want a little more personal service than Brooks Brothers MTM.



    Don't get hung-up on having the suit made "in house." Only a handful of tailors do, mostly the ones out of your price range. Even some of the most expensive tailors do not have the work done on premises. MTM is made in factories, such as English-American, Martin Greenfield, etc. MTM is a totally acceptable and reliable product.

    Also, don't get fixated on multiple fittings. Generally, a MTM can only be tweaked and altered. If it is not essentially right "out of the box" there is little that can be done on multiple fittings. Incidentally, my London tailor does one fitting, the basted try-on. Nothing else is required from a master. The need for multiple fittings is unnecessary unless the suit does not fit from the beginning or if you are dealing with an inexperienced tailor.

    Here are some possibilities:

    1. LS Mens Clothes. The suits are made by outside factories, such as H. Freeman & Son, Southwick, Coppley, and a local workshop. They also do shirts. I have used them and can recommend them. You will easily get a suit within your price range.

    2. Mr. Ned. They claim to make everything in-house. Within your price range.

    3. Saint Laurie. They make what they sell, and the workshop is on the premises. Nice, honest people. Excellent cloth selection purchased direct from the mills, therefore, there is a savings to the customer. Within your price range.

    4. Gilberto. The workshop is on the premises. Probably at the high end of your range or beyond the range.

    5. Paul Winston. I understand that he offers a MTM made by an outside factory. Probably at the high end of your range.

    6. Cego. Shirts. I can recommend Carl. Within your range.

    7. Brooks Bros. for MTM shirts. Within your range.

    8. Alexis Tailors on E. 77th St. between Third and Second. Probably at the high end or beyond your range. This shop is dedicated to making clothes. There are tailor/alteration shops scattered around the town which mostly do alterations. Some will make a custom suit. However, don't expect bargains. My alteration tailor will make a custom suit for $3,000 which he says far surpasses anything on Savile Row. (The bragging is for free.)

    9. Alan Flusser Custom Shop. They offer a MTM suit by Southwick. Probably comes in at $2,000.

    Brooks Bros. might have some cloths in your price range, but the offerings would be limited. It probably averages $2,000.

    J. Press probably averages $2,200+, but they offer excellent, English cloths and service by Jay Walter, one of the best in the business.

    All of the above provide excellent service, including Brooks.

    Good luck.
     
  15. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    1. Tailors have to pay rent, too.
    2. Bespoke tailors are rare these days. The few there are in the U.S. are largely concentrated in Manhattan, so they can charge a lot.



    Because many of your demands are out-of-line for MTM. It is rare to get even a single fitting in MTM, nonetheless multiple ones. Afterall, the whole point of MTM is be a cost-effective alternative to RTW with increased customization. The suits are factory made, not bench made. So, generally speaking, a MTM seller will not stomach a re-cut if your suit is messed up and can't be fixed by alteration. He'll do whatever alterations allow him to keep tolerable margins, and then you can take it or leave it. If you leave it, he probably won't want to do business with you again. Thus you should always expect compromise when you go the route of MTM.


    did you not read any of my posts?
    i found him several tailors that fit his criteria?

    Mark Seitelman did a very nice job of giving him a little more information?
     
  16. Brandedbysuits

    Brandedbysuits New Member

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    I am looking for someone higher price ranged 5-6K can anyone give me a recommendation?
     
  17. Lizard23

    Lizard23 Well-Known Member

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    NYC
    I use Michael Andrews exclusively and have been very happy with the service and quality given the price. Some of the touches they recommend are fashion forward but they will make you anything you want so if you go in there wanting a more traditional fit I am sure they would be able to accommodate.
     
  18. forex

    forex Senior member

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    Has anyone mentioned Martin Greenfield? I have suits from Greenfield under Brooks and they are nicely made.
     
  19. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Has anyone mentioned Martin Greenfield? I have suits from Greenfield under Brooks and they are nicely made.

    i don't think our newcomer really wants to visit bushwick.
    I have lived here since 1980 and i don't want to go to bushwick.
    now maybe if I had a 20 something artist girlfriend.......
     
  20. mlongano

    mlongano Senior member

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    I am looking for someone higher price ranged 5-6K can anyone give me a recommendation?
    Try Leonard Logsdail.
     

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