Bespoke/MTM in NYC

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by leftover_salmon, Feb 7, 2011.

  1. James Douglas Collection

    James Douglas Collection Active Member

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    I'm not a demanding prick -- quite the opposite. I'm looking for a place that isn't just going to take my measurements and deliver a suit 4-6 weeks later. I'm looking for a tailor that will offer more of a collaborative relationship.

    If my original post was curt, it's because it was 1am and I was tired and just wanted to get to the point.


    I don't think you will find a tailor in your price range for those specifications. I also think what you must understand is, while you are trying to cultivate a relationship with a tailor, every time he sees you, that's costing him time and money. Multiple fittings are nice and they tend to get a more precise garment, but you have to be willing to pay the price for it.
     


  2. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    While a tailor should give as many fittings as necessary, more fittings doesn't signify a better tailor. One or two fittings ought to be enough in most cases. Stipulating the number of fittings you're going to get is a bad way to start with a tailor.
     


  3. leftover_salmon

    leftover_salmon Senior member

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    While a tailor should give as many fittings as necessary, more fittings doesn't signify a better tailor. One or two fittings ought to be enough in most cases. Stipulating the number of fittings you're going to get is a bad way to start with a tailor.

    I was speaking more of the spirit than the letter.
     


  4. Lord Nonsie

    Lord Nonsie Active Member

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    don't get hung up on terms. (bespoke/mtm)

    Mr. ned, ercole, A & A, David Reeves, are all good choices.
    you are not asking for anything out of the ordinary.
    I know ned charges for working buttonholes and pick stitiching but, those choices will still keep you under your price point.

    Not sure why Lord Nonsie mentioned Logsdail, as leonard is way north of $1600.

    Do they "want" you for three fittings? if that is the process, then that is what you get. and the 4 i mentioned will do that.

    you will get what you are looking for. just be specific. and make your requests as a gentleman and not a demanding prick.


    Len is nor of 1600 for bespoke but he does MTM as well. I also think Len is a tailor somebody can grow with and he can grow with him.
     


  5. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I do not feel comfortable commentting on Michael andrews bespoke, as I have not seen his suits since i peaked into his shop on clinton st. several years ago.
    I think the garments are made in HK/china. i have seen some great things from asia and i have seen crap. so i would guess his garments land somewhere between.

    i think the OP is aremed with enough info to make a choice.

    I doubt Len logsdail would make a MTM suit for less then $2500. but i could be wrong.
     


  6. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Speaking of China, there are the William Yu and WW Chan options.

    Does St Laurie still exist, and are they at all good these days? They used to fit the general description of what is needed.
     


  7. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    So what you're saying is that there are no tailors in NYC who can cut a decent suit in-house for less than $5k? (That's essentially all I'm asking.) Doesn't make any sense. But hey, I don't live there.

    Yes. There are. Winston Tailors (formerly know as Chipp)
    House style is trad and or trad-derived

    NY Times Article includes address

    http://cityroom.blogs.nytimes.com/20...certain-taste/
     


  8. GiltEdge

    GiltEdge Senior member

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    Yes. There are. Winston Tailors (formerly know as Chipp)
    House style is trad and or trad-derived

    NY Times Article includes address

    http://cityroom.blogs.nytimes.com/20...certain-taste/


    Pretty sure Chipp is going out of business...
     


  9. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Oh, no-- not again.

    Or is Paul just ready to retire?
     


  10. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    So what you're saying is that there are no tailors in NYC who can cut a decent suit in-house for less than $5k? (That's essentially all I'm asking.) Doesn't make any sense. But hey, I don't live there.

    Once you arrive in NYC, or at least once you start looking for housing, you will realize the amount of money that flows is different orders of magnitude than most places in the world. Why do you think there is so much talk about Chan and NSM if not for the dearth of affordable options?

    The number of options increase once you get to $ 2-3k but you are asking for considerably a lower price point.
     


  11. FranDCG

    FranDCG Active Member

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    Once you arrive in NYC, or at least once you start looking for housing, you will realize the amount of money that flows is different orders of magnitude than most places in the world. Why do you think there is so much talk about Chan and NSM if not for the dearth of affordable options?

    The number of options increase once you get to $ 2-3k but you are asking for considerably a lower price point.


    I know the OP made it clear he wanted to know about the $1.5k range of options, but would you, and anyone else, mind listing which makers would you consider to be best in that $2-3k range in NYC? I've searched around and have decided on Martin Greenfield for an upcoming order. Any thoughts? I assume the OP would be interested in some recommendations here as well after some of the responses his price points have generated...
     


  12. imageWIS

    imageWIS Senior member

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    You're pricing expectation is unrealistic. The big name NYC tailors charge $5-6k a suit. In your budget, you can do MTM, Mr. Ned, Ercole, or W.W. Chan. Being picky isn't an option unless you want to spend significantly more.

    I'm perplexed by the specificity of your geographical preference. There are so few good bespoke tailors in the U.S., nonetheless Manhattan, I'd think you'd be willing to sit on the subway a few extra stops to get to the right guy.


    Don't tell him how hard it is to get a breast wallet in NYC, he might just not move here!
     


  13. YoungAmerican

    YoungAmerican Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Shirtmaven himself will do you up some very nice shirts in your price range, and he is a class act to boot. CEGO Custom Shirtmakers.
     


  14. leftover_salmon

    leftover_salmon Senior member

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    Once you arrive in NYC, or at least once you start looking for housing, you will realize the amount of money that flows is different orders of magnitude than most places in the world. Why do you think there is so much talk about Chan and NSM if not for the dearth of affordable options? The number of options increase once you get to $ 2-3k but you are asking for considerably a lower price point.
    Thanks. I'm not a fucking yokel, though. I just figured any OTR suit costs the same in NY as it does in any other major city, so why couldn't I find a tailor in the same ballpark as well? Seems out of whack. And why is everyone so fixated on the "Bespoke" part? I said "Bespoke/MTM" recognizing that true bespoke may be difficult/very expensive to find, but at the same time I want a little more personal service than Brooks Brothers MTM.
     


  15. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    Oh, no-- not again.

    Or is Paul just ready to retire?


    They're having trouble finding a new location.

    http://www.chipp2.com/blog/

    If it looks like they'll stay in business, you certainly can have a collaborative relationship.
    I am an old customer, from the 70s through the 90s. I stopped using them when I
    moved to CA and didn't get to New York very much. I still have some Chipp MTM
    jackets. They are quite distinctive in fabric and cut.
     


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