Bespoke/MTM in NYC

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by leftover_salmon, Feb 7, 2011.

  1. leftover_salmon

    leftover_salmon Senior member

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    Moving to NYC in a couple weeks and am looking for tailor recs. Don't kill me: I tried a search and couldn't differentiate alterations tailors from true suit/shirtmakers. Also, I have some specific criteria.

    Manhattan location is greatly preferred, and south of Central Park. Suit should be cut and constructed in-house. I don't want tailors who have various pricing levels based on levels of construction -- they should construct all suits to a certain high standard (full canvas, hand-rolled lapels, surgeon's cuffs, ticket pocket should all be standard), with higher pricing reserved for nicer fabrics and more customized/unusual orders (mixing fabrics, embroidering, etc...). They should be serious about the creation process and *want* to have me in for at least three fittings. I'm a young guy but I work in finance, so the cut should be flattering (i.e. not boxy) while still being conservative. Finally, a price range of $1000-1600/suit and $150-200 a shirt.
     


  2. Lord Nonsie

    Lord Nonsie Active Member

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    One great option is Len Logsdail. I have used him before and he is truly a wonderful tailor and a good friend.
     


  3. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    You're pricing expectation is unrealistic. The big name NYC tailors charge $5-6k a suit. In your budget, you can do MTM, Mr. Ned, Ercole, or W.W. Chan. Being picky isn't an option unless you want to spend significantly more.

    I'm perplexed by the specificity of your geographical preference. There are so few good bespoke tailors in the U.S., nonetheless Manhattan, I'd think you'd be willing to sit on the subway a few extra stops to get to the right guy.
     


  4. nmprisons

    nmprisons Senior member

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    You're pricing expectation is unrealistic. The big name NYC tailors charge $5-6k a suit. In your budget, you can do MTM, Mr. Ned, Ercole, or W.W. Chan. Being picky isn't an option unless you want to spend significantly more.

    I'm perplexed by the specificity of your geographical preference. There are so few good bespoke tailors in the U.S., nonetheless Manhattan, I'd think you'd be willing to sit on the subway a few extra stops to get to the right guy.


    /thread
     


  5. leftover_salmon

    leftover_salmon Senior member

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    You're pricing expectation is unrealistic. The big name NYC tailors charge $5-6k a suit. In your budget, you can do MTM, Mr. Ned, Ercole, or W.W. Chan. Being picky isn't an option unless you want to spend significantly more.

    I'm perplexed by the specificity of your geographical preference. There are so few good bespoke tailors in the U.S., nonetheless Manhattan, I'd think you'd be willing to sit on the subway a few extra stops to get to the right guy.


    So what you're saying is that there are no tailors in NYC who can cut a decent suit in-house for less than $5k? (That's essentially all I'm asking.) Doesn't make any sense. But hey, I don't live there.
     


  6. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Ercole's can, just slightly over your budget. Shirts are right at your budget.
     


  7. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    So what you're saying is that there are no tailors in NYC who can cut a decent suit in-house for less than $5k? (That's essentially all I'm asking.) Doesn't make any sense. But hey, I don't live there.

    What I'm saying is that your budget is the constraining factor here. Your question appears to presume you can afford to be picky. In fact, for $1,000-1,600 in NYC, you'll have to more or less take what you can get. It is unlikely (if not impossible) to be bespoke rather than made-to-measure, and you won't find enough options such that it makes sense to pick based on location in Manhattan.
     


  8. leftover_salmon

    leftover_salmon Senior member

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    What I'm saying is that your budget is the constraining factor here. Your question appears to presume you can afford to be picky. In fact, for $1,000-1,600 in NYC, you'll have to more or less take what you can get. It is unlikely (if not impossible) to be bespoke rather than made-to-measure, and you won't find enough options such that it makes sense to pick based on location in Manhattan.
    I guess Manhattan is being a bit picky. Brooklyn/Queens would be fine as long as it's somewhat accessible from the city (and open weekends since I have *no* time during the week). Also, I said MTM in addition to bespoke, as long as the MTM is somewhat customizable. Does that help matters at all?
     


  9. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    don't get hung up on terms. (bespoke/mtm)

    Mr. ned, ercole, A & A, David Reeves, are all good choices.
    you are not asking for anything out of the ordinary.
    I know ned charges for working buttonholes and pick stitiching but, those choices will still keep you under your price point.

    Not sure why Lord Nonsie mentioned Logsdail, as leonard is way north of $1600.

    Do they "want" you for three fittings? if that is the process, then that is what you get. and the 4 i mentioned will do that.

    you will get what you are looking for. just be specific. and make your requests as a gentleman and not a demanding prick.
     


  10. leftover_salmon

    leftover_salmon Senior member

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    don't get hung up on terms. (bespoke/mtm)

    Mr. ned, ercole, A & A, David Reeves, are all good choices.
    you are not asking for anything out of the ordinary.
    I know ned charges for working buttonholes and pick stitiching but, those choices will still keep you under your price point.

    Not sure why Lord Nonsie mentioned Logsdail, as leonard is way north of $1600.

    Do they "want" you for three fittings? if that is the process, then that is what you get. and the 4 i mentioned will do that.

    you will get what you are looking for. just be specific. and make your requests as a gentleman and not a demanding prick.


    I'm not a demanding prick -- quite the opposite. I'm looking for a place that isn't just going to take my measurements and deliver a suit 4-6 weeks later. I'm looking for a tailor that will offer more of a collaborative relationship.

    If my original post was curt, it's because it was 1am and I was tired and just wanted to get to the point.
     


  11. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  12. RangerP

    RangerP Senior member

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    Hey Shirtmaven,

    You seem to know your NYC tailors/companies very very well base on this thread and others you've commented on.

    Would you mind giving your opinion on Michael Andrews Bespoke?

    I'm not even in the market for a MTM suit in NYC, I'm just curious... and I know they are MTM and not bespoke.

    Thanks!

    And sorry to the OP for hijacking this thread, although it is related to the matter at hand.
     


  13. NewYorkIslander

    NewYorkIslander Affiliate Vendor

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    Go see Frank at Ercoles...he is in midtown once a week too...give him a call.
     


  14. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Hey Shirtmaven,

    You seem to know your NYC tailors/companies very very well base on this thread and others you've commented on.

    Would you mind giving your opinion on Michael Andrews Bespoke?

    I'm not even in the market for a MTM suit in NYC, I'm just curious... and I know they are MTM and not bespoke.

    Thanks!

    And sorry to the OP for hijacking this thread, although it is related to the matter at hand.


    Michael Andrews from what I have seen looks very fashion forward. Most of the fits I see are just tight suits. It is essentially Thick as Thieves for people with money to burn.
     


  15. RangerP

    RangerP Senior member

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    Michael Andrews from what I have seen looks very fashion forward. Most of the fits I see are just tight suits. It is essentially Thick as Thieves for people with money to burn.

    Thanks Patrick, I like your comparison [​IMG].

    I've never actually seen any MAB suits so that's very good to know.

    I assume that by simply the reference to Mr. Ned on this forum that he is much better than Michael Andrews for what appears to be a few hundred dollars cheaper.
     


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