Bespoke Morning Suit.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by DoctorRN, Jan 19, 2013.

  1. DoctorRN

    DoctorRN Member

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    Hi,

    I am a new member and would like some advice please. I am hoping to purchase a bespoke morning suit in the next couple of months. I have an idea of what I am after: Black morning suit with ribbed silk braiding and matching waistcoat. I don't have the budget for traditional Savile Row tailors, but would like a bespoke suit rather than made-to-measure, as I think the tailcoat would fit better.

    I have narrowed my options down to two tailors: Cad & The Dandy or Graham Browne. Do any forum members have any experience with either of these tailors, especially in terms of bespoke morning dress? Alternatively, are there any tailors that could be recommended, my budget is approximately £1500. Your advice on which to choose would be appreciated.

    Many thanks.
     


  2. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    You seem to be looking for a lot of advice.

    You will find few threads on full morning dress but what are you hoping to do with the silk braid on it? Emulate the Prince of Wales in some way? There is an article on Thomas Mahon's blog on the subject.

    Whether £1,500 is adequate is possibly questionable.

    There are threads on the Browne and Cad and the Dandy as you have already been advised. Browne seems to get mixed reviews although one or two decent pieces have come out of his workroom.
     


  3. recondite

    recondite Senior member

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    A black morning suit would certainly be different. And adding braid would take it to the next level, but I'm not sure which one.
     


  4. Veremund

    Veremund Senior member

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  5. FondDeJante

    FondDeJante Active Member

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    Hmmm, not sure whether someone looking for a £1500 bespoke morning suit would consider a £175 OTP item instead.

    OP, have you tried asking at some of the smaller tailors? If you're in London, you could try Franco Santoro in Kingly Street or Michael Wood in Leytonstone. I've used both extensively for alterations, and have seen some of their own work at various stages of construction. Franco has some good stories (and pictures) about celebrity clients whom he has made suits for.

    Both of them quoted very reasonable prices to have something made up - I was asking about suits or blazers but perhaps they would also do morning suits? Let me know if you'd like their contact details..
     


  6. recondite

    recondite Senior member

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    Someone who would order one in black might.

    Unless they are confusing the idea of a morning suit with morning dress; two very different things.

    A morning suit typically has jacket, waistcoat, and trousers cut from the same material. And I have yet to see a black one, although I am sure it's been done and probably purple as well.

    A black cutaway and waistcoat are fine for a funeral, but not with matching pants.
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2013


  7. DoctorRN

    DoctorRN Member

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    Hi,

    Thanks for the posts, please keep them coming. Just to clarify, I have used the incorrect terminology. I meant to say morning dress rather than morning suit. FondDeJante, yes please could you give me the details of the tailors you suggested.
     


  8. recondite

    recondite Senior member

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    Just a recommendation, you may wish to consider a non-matching waistcoat in buff or dove grey, depending on preference or even your hair color if you match things like that. Both colors are excellent and can worn with other outfits as odd waistcoats if cut appropriately.

    I personally prefer buff, but a different color may look better on you. It looks good on me, and I wear it as an odd waistcoat with many outfits.

    The advantage of a grey waistcoat is that you would be one third of the way to a grey morning suit with matching jacket and trousers, a suit that is useful once in a while or maybe once per year. A grey one can also be worn as an odd waistcoat or vest.
     


  9. FondDeJante

    FondDeJante Active Member

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    I've PM'd you their phone numbers
     


  10. Frog in Suit

    Frog in Suit Senior member

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    I just found your thread about Eton tailors and would recommend you contact them (Tom Brown and, possibly, Welsh and Jefferies). Prices would be lower than London and they must know all there is to know about morning dress.

    Web site:http://www.tombrowntailors.co.uk/

    Hope this helps.

    Frog in Suit
     


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