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Bespoke-"Made in Huddersfield"-Anyone know

Fashionslave

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Here's one for Manton,or anybody else who would like to jump in.I found a great bespoke suit in a thrift store.Three button styling,skirted waist  in the trousers,bengal striped lining,etc.Not a label anywhere,only "Made in Huddersfield" in the back pockets.Or does that just refer to the cloth.Would anyone care to take a stab at this?
 

Concordia

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How do you know it's bespoke, if there are no labels? I assume you checked the inside front surface of the breast pocket....

If it says Huddersfield woven in on the edge of the cloth, then the cloth is from there. A lot of good mills in Huddersfield, although I couldn't give you any specifics about which ones.
 

Fashionslave

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It doesn't need a label to be bespoke.There are certain traits of bespoke which I have a trained eye to recognize,such as the folded over cloth on the underside of the lapel,the countless tiny stitches under the lapels to help them keep their shape and roll,amongst other details...I think your assessment that the inscription may be for the cloth is correct.Oh,well,maybe somebody has a similar lining in their English suit.
 

Concordia

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It doesn't need a label to be bespoke.
No, but a tag that says "Gieves & Hawkes" with a client's name and order date would be a good start on an I.D.

I do remember from my days in London that some of the less pricy tailors would leave the selvage (sp?) close to the edge of the pockets, presumably so anyone looking closely would know that (a) the cloth used was of reasonably high quality, and (b)the suit was not mass-produced, since most factories don't do it that way.
 

clarinetplayer

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Pretty sure that Huddersfield refers to the cloth.
 

montecristo#4

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I have a couple bespoke suits made from fabric made in Huddersfield.... Can't for the life of me remember the brand, though. I will check it tonight. Very nice Super 150s, though. Nicer than the equivalent Loro Piana, IMHO.
 

RJman

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I have a couple bespoke suits made from fabric made in Huddersfield.... Can't for the life of me remember the brand, though. I will check it tonight. Very nice Super 150s, though. Nicer than the equivalent Loro Piana, IMHO.
Moxon Huddersfield?
 

Fashionslave

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Well,of course you can only read so much on the width of a rear pocket,but,yes,the selvedge was on the inner top edge of the rear pockets.I think this suit was tip top quality,as the main seams on the trouser edges have pickstitching,along with every other possible edge.I wish I could post pics but I can't .
 

Geoff wheeler

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Old school bespoke used to cut the selvedge into the pockets of the trousers! So yes just the cloth I'm afraid!
 

Len

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Since my Carnaby Street days I have cut the selvedge off every scrap of fabric I give my tailors that they use to make a garment. It was laziness that saw the selvedge left on any garment and, to my eyes, it was an ugly statement. It saved the tailor from turning an edge in before sewing. And just about every Savile Row house had garment makers that worked for them that used this method. So, to see this in a pocket of a bespoke garment tells me nothing of where it was made. It tells me two things: 1. the fabric came from the huddersfield area. 2. The tailor who made it took a short cut.

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