Bespoke lasts and trees

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by janne melkersson, Apr 1, 2006.

  1. janne melkersson

    janne melkersson Senior member

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    Here is the link to Spring Line last company, Northampton. They offer bespoke lasts and trees to the public;

    "Spring Line makes bespoke lasts for shoe manufacturers but also supplies them direct to members of the public, who can then take the lasts to the manufacturer of their choice."

    http://www.springline.net/bespoke.htm

    It is an interesting offer and if it works it could be an alternative to the trad. bespoke shoe. If the client is in possession of the last the client could as Spring Line says "take the lasts to the manufacturer of their choice", that said the client could choose if he want the hand made, semi-hand made or the factory grade of shoes but still have them made MTM.

    I am sure that there will not be a problem finding a maker or a factory who will make the shoes. At least I would welcome all clients with their own lasts. Hopefully this could make the shoe less expensive for the client which in my mind will in the long turn be a possitive thing for the trade.

    This is not a new service, there have been last makers over the years that have and still are offering the same product.

    The price for a pair of lasts is £38 plus VAT for "young Shoemakers and endeavours"! Anyone interested? Let me know and we could work something out. It sure would be interesting to make a pair of shoes this way.
     
  2. tiger02

    tiger02 Militarist

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    Depending on what shakes out with Schubert, this could be quite an addition. If you can get to Northampton that is. [​IMG]
     
  3. janne melkersson

    janne melkersson Senior member

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    tiger02,
    It seems like there is no need to visit Spring Line for measuring the feet. They can guide the client through the measuring process.

    QuotÃng Spring Line;
    "For this, we require a 2D foot draft or 3D foot scan. If supplying a draft, please contact us before hand for information on the measurements we require If you would like us to measure your feet, please call on 01604 644961 to arrange a meeting."
     
  4. Holdfast

    Holdfast Senior member

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    Since I can be in Northampton in less than an hour, this sounds very interesting.

    I have a question though -

    I always thought last-making was the core of a shoemaker's art, which complemented the personal or house style of shoes they create. Is it possible to have a "one last fits all styles"? And even if you could, what then would be the point of getting a shoe from one maker compared to another?

    Or would the customer's basic last need further modification by each maker? In which case, would there still be any real cost saving?

    Just a bit confused here.
     
  5. Dmntd

    Dmntd Member

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    A mold or last made from ones foot, would only cover the measurements needed for the foot of the wearer. It would then need be modified for the style of shoe.

    I wear a 13 6E shoe, there are few then a dozen RTW shoes whch will fit ym feet. Otside of that bespoke is the only way to go.

    Dmntd
     
  6. brass4321

    brass4321 Active Member

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    Sounds interesting - where do you get a 3D foot scan? Any podiatrist? Anyone recommend a place in NYC? I'd give it a shot.
     
  7. janne melkersson

    janne melkersson Senior member

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    Holdfast,
    in my first posting I wrote that this could be an alternative to traditional bespoke lasts, if Spring Line make lasts with the same standard of fit as an bespoke lastmaker that is.

    If so, the shoemaker can not charge for a bespoke pair of shoes since he has nothing to do with the last. As I see it the client will be ordering a pair of Made To Order shoes and that should lower the price considerably. In my shop the price different between a made MTO shoe on stock lasts (which this will be close to) and a bespoke shoe is about one third.

    When talking about this system of last making bear in mind that behind the screen there is a last maker who control the softwear and the hardwear. I see this nothing but a new tool to make lasts with. It has no long history but it works and it is comming to the bespoke trade if it not already is here.
     
  8. brass4321

    brass4321 Active Member

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    Janne - do you know where someone could go for a 3D foot scan?
     
  9. mkk

    mkk Senior member

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    Stefano Bemer was trying out a 3D foot scanner when I was in Florence last year.
     
  10. janne melkersson

    janne melkersson Senior member

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    Janne - do you know where someone could go for a 3D foot scan?

    I don't know where to go for a 3D foot scan. But you could go for a 2D foot tracing. You could ask Spring Line to send you the info about the measurements they require.

    In the bespoke trade we are also using a 2D foot tracing. It has been working for a coupple of hundred years and it will work using todays high-tech too.

    One reservation though! I don't know how much experience Spring Line have with their bespoke service so it needs a brave man to test it [​IMG]
     
  11. janne melkersson

    janne melkersson Senior member

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    I was talking to Spring Line today. They told me they had many years experience of making bespoke lasts. The price for a pair is £178. A bit more then I expected but still lower then what (most?) bespoke last makers can make a pair for.

    The lady I was talking to said that they where making bespoke lasts for Trickers. They where also making lasts for bespoke makers but she didn't give me any names.

    Their bespoke trees costed from £65.

    Anyhow, I will order a pair from them.
     

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