Dismiss Notice

STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Bespoke Irish Linen Suit

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by z1000, Jul 12, 2014.

  1. z1000

    z1000 Active Member

    Messages:
    26
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Sep 13, 2012
    hi Styleforum people,

    Would like to hear any comments or feedback on a bespoke project I got going on right now. I will update photos after my next fitting. My apologies for the low quality phone photos.

    this is my second bespoke suit with my tailor who is 78 years old, from Napoli, and this time I'm going with an unlined Irish linen, I bought 3 meters of this material: http://merchantandmills.com/products/cloth/gravy-linen-chambray/

    I'm really happy with how its coming together and I think the result will be incredible.

    Photos are from the first fitting, where we decided on the button stance, checked shoulders / waist, measured sleeves. There is a lot more to go...

    Details:
    - notchel lapel - 7cm
    - 2 button (slightly higher stance)
    - patch pockets
    - unlined, except for sleeves and shoulders
    - 2 vents
    - no structure, but he'll use a little bit of glue-fabric to make it rigid (which is in every "unconstructed" jacket - he pulled apart my j.crew one and showed it to me)

    - no belt loops on pants (I think this is awesome)

    This first photo is from the linen supplier's site
    [​IMG]

    The buttons I chose
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     


  2. hirschlederne

    hirschlederne Senior member

    Messages:
    528
    Likes Received:
    165
    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2011
    Location:
    T.


  3. BigRob

    BigRob Senior member

    Messages:
    179
    Likes Received:
    12
    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2013
    Quote:
    I usually prefer for buttons to be sewn on in a straight line instead of glued in a crooked one, but I think that's just personal preference.

    Cheers,
    BigRob
     
    Last edited: Jul 12, 2014


  4. tchoy

    tchoy Senior member

    Messages:
    1,488
    Likes Received:
    1,749
    Joined:
    Sep 16, 2004
    Location:
    Sydney, Australia
    Jacket looks good from the back, pants could be slightly wider below the knees especially for linen but it's a personal choice. Glue-fabric sound like fusing just because J Crew does it on their coats I wouldn't recommend it for bespoke, you should ask for a light canvassed front. It will still holds it's shape.

    Have you consider doing 3 roll to two instead of two buttons?
     


  5. z1000

    z1000 Active Member

    Messages:
    26
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Sep 13, 2012
    Thanks for the replies!

    With the pic of the buttons, they are just sitting in top of the fabric, I guess I thought that was apparent.

    I did in fact want to do a 3 roll 2 but my tailor has never done it so I just left it alone. I also thought the lower leg was a bit slim, but it works with my skinny proportion I guess. I prefer it to looser legs, which remind me of linen drawstring pants.

    With the fabric, he's not technically fusing it, it's more for the inside of the lapel and a little bit in the breast. I found a thread here one time where someone pulled apart a jacket that was unconstructed, unlined, uncanvassed, and unfused, and there was still a little glue in there.

    I don't want to do a canvas because I want it to drape in a more casual way.

    Anyone else have experience in bespoke linen?
     


  6. z1000

    z1000 Active Member

    Messages:
    26
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Sep 13, 2012
    The finished product:

    Unlined, no canvas

    the sleeve length looks good in this photo, but if I move my arms at all, the shirt cuffs seem to get sucked into the sleeve, so I don't know if I should maybe go a bit shorter



    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     


  7. Tried and True

    Tried and True Senior member

    Messages:
    1,506
    Likes Received:
    558
    Joined:
    Jan 27, 2014
    Location:
    Hopkins Island, Florida
    The jacket looks fine. The trousers; not so much.

    Hold off on shortening the sleeves as they have a tendency to shorten a bit upon wearing, linen especially.
     


  8. z1000

    z1000 Active Member

    Messages:
    26
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Sep 13, 2012
    you think the trousers are a bit slim? I kind of like trousers on the slim side, but they are definitely on the border line for me
     


  9. comrade

    comrade Senior member

    Messages:
    6,044
    Likes Received:
    342
    Joined:
    May 10, 2005
    Location:
    Menlo Park, CA
    Jacket looks good, but a bit snug.
    Your shirt shows between the top and
    bottom button. It shouldn't, IMHO.
     


  10. tchoy

    tchoy Senior member

    Messages:
    1,488
    Likes Received:
    1,749
    Joined:
    Sep 16, 2004
    Location:
    Sydney, Australia
    

    +1 The jacket looks fine but a little snug, The front is cut away too much seeing shirt near the bottom button. The trousers don't very well from the back fuller trousers would look much better IMHO especially in linen.
     


  11. GBR

    GBR Senior member

    Messages:
    8,059
    Likes Received:
    605
    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2006
    Not at all impressed.

    Coat seems tight and lacks any presence, the trousers really do not drape or even fit.
     
    Last edited: Jul 26, 2014


  12. brokencycle

    brokencycle Senior member

    Messages:
    11,118
    Likes Received:
    4,968
    Joined:
    Nov 21, 2008
    Location:
    The Old North State
    The jacket looks fine - it isn't what I would have gone with though. That being said, the pants should have a higher rise with that jacket and they shouldn't be as slim. The shirt showing is less than ideal.
     


  13. z1000

    z1000 Active Member

    Messages:
    26
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Sep 13, 2012
    Thanks for the opinions. Yeah, I like everything on the slim side because I'm pretty skinny and I feel like I'm swimming in a lot of jackets and pants. I'll see if I can get some better photos of the jacket, the linen really does have a lot of soul to it but in the other photos, you can't tell, it's not even in focus
     


  14. David Reeves

    David Reeves Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    3,124
    Likes Received:
    2,078
    Joined:
    Feb 16, 2009
    Location:
    New York
    You have slightly bow legs and these trousers aren't cut for that figuration which is why the crease isn't centered and why the drape isn't good. The skinny trouser really highlights this further. Stylistically the jacket is dull with no sense of élan. I hate to be so negative but it annoys me that this is the result of a lifetime of putting suits together.
     


  15. Patrick R

    Patrick R Senior member

    Messages:
    1,934
    Likes Received:
    2,718
    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2011
    Location:
    Chicago, IL
    This makes me appreciate my tailor that much more.
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by