bespoke in London: SR or off SR? woth, paying the price?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by psgermany, Oct 7, 2016.

  1. psgermany

    psgermany Member

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    I want to go for a bespoke suit in London. I am not sure, which tailor to chose.

    I am more on the heavy side and have bespoke suits from Chriss Kerr (Eddy did it), Cad & the Dandy.
    The Kerr is nice and comfortable, but nothting, where I went out with a wow-effect. Cad and the Dandy is ok, but would not chose
    them again as too many people worked on adjusting it.

    I although bought two MTM suit from Taliare, which have a different, neater style, but are not really comfortable.

    So I am looking for a traditional cut, I think. But I would certainly listen to recommondations from an experienced tailor
    which style would suit me.

    I checked the forum and found some intersting posts, but some of them were quiet outdated.

    I am very undecided what to do. Either trying to find a SR tailor, which seems to be difficult with my idea of price (maximum
    around 3.000 GBP) or going to an off-SR tailor. Or as a third option to give Chris Kerr a second chance.

    I talked to Graham Brown and to Chopping & Lodge. Not sure with C & L as they had bad reviews, but my impression on the phone was very good.

    So my question to the experienced bespoke buyers: is there really such big difference between the SR and the other tailors? Or is it only the location and name that causes the differences in prices?

    Any recommondations for a "beginner" in bespoke like me?

    Your input is appreciated very much.
     


  2. psgermany

    psgermany Member

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    I talked to Gary McCarthy, who is shirtmaker and recommended Colin De'Ath, outside of London.
    Suits start at 1.700 GBP.

    http://www.bespoke-tailors.co.uk/

    Does anyone know one of the two guys?
     


  3. BigBadBernard

    BigBadBernard Senior member

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    I have used C&L for odd jackets and once used Colin Death for a suit.

    C&L jackets have varied. One is excellent, one good, and the other so so - I suspect there are some shortcuts in the manufacture, as with Graham Brown, given the price but on the whole I would say they are decent value and Richard W is a nice chap to deal with.

    Colin D'eath made me a suit about 6/7 years ago. The fit was excellent, but I hadn't been explicit enough about the details of the styling and I ended up with a jacket where the gorge was so low (like, nipple low) as to be essentially unwearable. Unfortunately I didn't address this with him at the time, which was my fault - to be honest, back then I knew there was something I didn't like, but my eye wasn't educated enough to realise the problem until it was way to late to do anything about it - i.e. About 2 months after purchase! Given this experience I couldn't in honesty recommend CD, but likewise if you know the style you like and you are good at explaining it then I dare say he could deliver - he is clearly a very experienced tailor.

    If Colin D is local to you then there is also a very good MTM option in T Wells where you can get a sound workhorse suit in the likes of a Dugdale fabric for under £600. I have a few and swear by them for the daily commute when I don't need anything special.

    Alternatively, you could try Couch & Hoskin in the City, who are very traditional tailors, but they come in a shade over £2k. I have had good experiences there and they are probably the bst value of the higher quality bespoke options out there.

    I would also warn anyone off CATD, who I have found to be of poor quality and with lamentable customer service once they have your money.
     


  4. Andy57

    Andy57 Senior member

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    You might consider Whitcomb & Shaftsbury in London. I have not used them myself, but they have gotten some good reviews for their work. The thing that might work for you is that they offer two types of service. The first is, if you like, a full made-in-the-UK bespoke service. The second is a service where the garment is cut in London, but assembled in India. The cost is considerably less for the second service than for the first. But in both cases, John McCabe is the cutter.
     


  5. psgermany

    psgermany Member

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    Thanks for the advice!
     


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