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Bespoke - House Style?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Candella, Oct 12, 2012.

  1. Candella

    Candella Active Member

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    I'm having a bit of a problem trying to choose a bespoke tailor. I'm trying to get a few sports jackets/coats and a suit made but there are just so many tailors where I am (UK) that I have no idea who to choose.

    I'd like to get an idea from you guys why you chose your particular tailor. Is it because of the house style they offer?
    If anyone knows a good tailor in the UK (or more specifically in Savile Row) whose house style has more "preppy", sporty and young-ish overtones, please chime in here!
     


  2. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    Preppy often refers to the combination of outfit, unusually the cut of garments.
     


  3. Candella

    Candella Active Member

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    Ahh.. OK. Sorry for using the wrong term. Perhaps a slimmer cut is what I'm thinking of?
     


  4. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    Using such term is also incorrect, depends on your body and posture the tailor will decided to have the right cut for you (e.g. waist line issue, sleeve pitch), in other words, if the cut is right for you, the garment will look good, no matter whether it is slim or not.

    Decided your budget yet?
     


  5. Jermyn

    Jermyn Senior member

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    I don't think what you are saying is necessarily correct.

    A drape cut from A&S is not going to yield the same type of silhouette as a more severe suit from Huntsman, even if both were cut to the wearer's 'slim' specification.

    In fact, I'd venture to say that an A&S slim cut jacket is something of an oxymoron.
     


  6. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    Obviously don't forget 'slim' is a subjective entity, everyone will have their own interpretation. In my opinion the two houses you mentioned are not 'slim', I will only add the vague point of view that A&S cut makes people look taller, and Huntsman cuts their suit with older anesthetics.

    Let me reiterate, with your own perspective on fit, a cut that suits your body will be the best fit you can have, no matter it is a 'slim' cut or 'drape' cut
     


  7. Candella

    Candella Active Member

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    Thanks for your input guys! Appreciate it. I'll do a bit more reading up before jumping in though - I'd like to see what I want and don't in a suit.
     


  8. Macallan

    Macallan Senior member

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    We (Style Forum) put more focus on house style than what really happens; especially with flexible tailors and those that do not have a house style (e.g. Gieves). However, almost all tailors have a certain style with the customers own demands.

    This is what I would call sporty: Richard Anderson - single button, hacking pockets with ticket pocket, single vent. Sport jackets in tweed, cords, etc (with contrast collar); suits in same style (without contrast collar) but greys, navy and the odd suit or two in tweed.

    If you want a slim fit, Kilgour?
     


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