Bespoke Great Coat

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by tennisguru, Sep 8, 2011.

  1. tennisguru

    tennisguru Senior member

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    Have just commissioned a winter Great Coat with the tailor that does my shirts, double breasted, 5 button, storm collar, half belt etc in a Harrisons grey flannel. First time he's done anything other than shirts for me so should be quite an exciting venture 5 weeks until first fitting - will get photos if possible along the way.

    cheers
     
  2. Mimosa

    Mimosa Well-Known Member

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    Subscribed. Good luck.
     
  3. Holdfast

    Holdfast Senior member

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    A bespoke overcoat (just a simple navy single or double breasted) is something I keep trying to justify to myself, but have never quite managed. Shirts, jackets, suits... somehow I don't begrudge their bespoke cost as much as I do an overcoat (or shoes, come to think of it). I look forward to seeing this project progress, however, so I can live vicariously. ;)

    Good luck.
     
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2011
  4. TheTukker

    TheTukker Senior member

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    +1
     
  5. IndianBoyz

    IndianBoyz Senior member

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  6. Pieceofsand

    Pieceofsand Senior member

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    Wow. Congratulations OP. What's the budget like may I ask?
     
  7. David Reeves

    David Reeves Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    A Bespoke overcoat is an item that people don't often go for, but when its done properly the effect is a quantum leap in terms of style and fit in the same way as a Bespoke suit is vs OTR. Its actually a sound investment just think of how often you wear a coat.
     
  8. Accountancy

    Accountancy Member

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    Hello all. I am actually going in this weekend for the next fitting of the overcoat I'm having made for myself. I'll post some pictures of mine as well after it's completion since there seems to be so much interest in this type of item.
     
  9. OTM

    OTM Senior member

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    Last edited: Sep 9, 2011
  10. tennisguru

    tennisguru Senior member

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    Cheers All...

    My current over coat is a single breasted Dolce & Gabana that i've had for about 10 years and it's lost a little shape now (or more likely i've changed shape!!!), whilst it still fits nicely around the waist, it doesn't hang well from the shoulders anymore so a new investment is necessary (or so I tell myself!). If I can get 10 years out of this one it will be a good investment!

    As I said, he's been doing my shirts for years, but this will be my first coat from him, his cutter is well respected (although not someone i'd heard of) and apparently getting on a bit now, which makes me feel more confident that he's seen and done it all before! It's in the lap of the gods how it comes out but i'm looking forward to it!

    I'll ask if the cutter can take some pics during the process too.

    @Pieceofsand - there was no budget set but it's going to come out at £895 inclusive of VAT

    @OTM - inspiration came from the Greatcoat on Davide Taub's blog... http://davidetaub.blogspot.com/2011/03/military-style-winter-warm-great-coat.html

    cheers

    Ash
     
    Last edited: Sep 9, 2011
  11. Accountancy

    Accountancy Member

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    Wow I love the lapels on that Davide Taub one. I kind of wish now I had seen this exampe before I commissioned mine. I'm afraid I'm too far along to make too many changes...
     
  12. E TF

    E TF Senior member

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    Well done tennisguru.

    Funnily enough a bespoke tweed SB topcoat was one of the first things I had made, after just a couple of suits, simply because I had failed to find one OTR after over a year of looking. They all seemed to be made of very flimsy cloth, and look weirdly truncated ending mid way up my thigh. Finally I had had enough, and though I thought it a terrible extravagance at the time, like David Reeves says, it is probably the bespoke garment out of which I get the most use, and hopefully will do for another decade or two. One thing that amazes me about it is how it looks just as good whether I have a jacket on underneath or not. A grey herringbone DB overcoat is on now on my to do list, maybe next winter.
     
  13. TheTukker

    TheTukker Senior member

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  14. tennisguru

    tennisguru Senior member

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    Cheers Lonneker

    The style is based on the greatcoat worn by RAF Officers from WW2 onwards. The originals had smaller lapels, a full belt rather than a half belt and had regimental brass and epaulets. I like Taub's interpretation as it exaggerates the lapels, which is a look that I think suits this style of coat a lot (which is odd, as normally I'm a narrow lapel man) and nips in more at the waist. If mine comes out with a basic silhouette looking something like Taub's I'll be delighted and will add a few little of my own details to finish it off!

    cheers

    ash
     

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