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Bespoke from Singapore (pic heavy!)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by gshen, Dec 2, 2008.

  1. Dragon

    Dragon Senior member

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    The back view doesn`t look right. You should get the upper back, between the blades fixed. Also the jacket could use some more curve on the lower back, waist area (side view).
     
  2. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    That looks a fine suit - from a land where there has been criticism about a lack of decent bespoke tailors in the past. Who is the tailor?

    Do the trousers have a waist/fob pocket either in the band or just below it? What inside pockets do you have - difficult to tell from the picture.

    The comments made are helpful but I would certainly not take them as criticism as you seem to have your styling details under good control.

    Congratulations.
     
  3. GuidoWongolini

    GuidoWongolini Senior member

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    I got to see this suit in person last night after dinner with gshen.

    Our conclusion was it was a great fit & especially for the $$ or should I say the lack of $$ he had to pay!

    For ones first suit you cant go wrong!
     
  4. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    This is the best of the "cheap tailors" work I have seen posted in terms of workmanship and cut. By far.

    In fact, it looks great by any standard. Stick with these guys.

    Except for the neck part, Some of the issues with the back that people noted might reflect poor pressing and or the result of going without a full lining rather than a problem with the fit itself.

    It would be nice to fix the roll by the neck, but even so, this looks great.
     
  5. apropos

    apropos Senior member

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    Nice suit - if you don't mind me asking, where was this done, and for how much?
     
  6. mainy

    mainy Senior member

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    Not sure if this has been said but reminds me a lot of yfyf's suits. Looks loads better than most custom jobs that get posted.
     
  7. gshen

    gshen Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    The tailor used is Iris Tailor in Lucky Plaza: [​IMG] In the interest of full disclosure, I received a discount because I know the tailor's daughter from school. However, I have asked the tailor and the going price for CMT is S$785 (~USD515). Apparently I am told the husband and wife team do alterations for many boutiques like Zegna etc, so I was tempted to give them a go.. Glad I did! I have honestly no idea what other (proper) Singaporean tailors charge, so if others have had experiences with Singaporean tailors please chime in! The tailor has a good selection of H&S, Dormieul, Zegna, Loro Piana, VBC amongst others I cannot recall. The jacket is fully canvassed, and has a total of 4 inner pockets.. 3 pockets you can roughly make out in the pic with lining, and another lower pocket on the left. No fob pocket in the trouser band.. did not request for that as I don't find myself using it at all. The issues with back, neck, and suggestions about trouser cut and buttoning point will certainly be considered for my next project. Thank you so much for your kind advice and input! [​IMG] Also, yfyf's amazing suits were indeed a big inspiration for this suit.. Glad there is at least some form of resemblance and hope he doesn't mind!
     
  8. Toiletduck

    Toiletduck Senior member

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    Generally pretty darn good. Just a few thoughts: (1) a lower button stance and a slightly longer jacket, perhaps, (2) check the fit of the jacket collar (high and tight enough?), and (3) consider shaping the pants to drape cleaner.

    +1
     
  9. yfyf

    yfyf Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Very kind of folks to mention me, it does indeed have similarities to my earlier suits from WW Chan. In fact, when I saw it, I thought it was quite similar to Vintage Gent's!

    The only pick to nit is it pulls a little at the waist. Mine do that as well, but I've been trying to alleviate this problem in my more recent orders. O, and sleeve could stand to be slightly fuller.

    Looks great and congrats!
     
  10. Fishball

    Fishball Senior member

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    The issues with back, neck, and suggestions about trouser cut and buttoning point will certainly be considered for my next project. Thank you so much for your kind advice and input! [​IMG]

    Also, yfyf's amazing suits were indeed a big inspiration for this suit.. Glad there is at least some form of resemblance and hope he doesn't mind!


    Great suit in that price, just wonder why they used "test cloth" for the 1st two fitting, normal bespoke tailor won't do that, some MTM tailor did it.

    OP, why leave the back issue to next project?The problem is fixable, why not ask him to fix it?
     
  11. cchen

    cchen Senior member

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    looks fantastic!
     
  12. dragon8

    dragon8 Senior member

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    Very nice and you got it at a great price. Ask for pickstitching next time.
     
  13. acidboy

    acidboy Senior member

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    Wow, that suit breaks the Singaporean suit stereotype.
     
  14. JibranK

    JibranK Senior member

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    635
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    The tailor used is Iris Tailor in Lucky Plaza: [​IMG] In the interest of full disclosure, I received a discount because I know the tailor's daughter from school. However, I have asked the tailor and the going price for CMT is S$785 (~USD515). Apparently I am told the husband and wife team do alterations for many boutiques like Zegna etc, so I was tempted to give them a go.. Glad I did! I have honestly no idea what other (proper) Singaporean tailors charge, so if others have had experiences with Singaporean tailors please chime in! The tailor has a good selection of H&S, Dormieul, Zegna, Loro Piana, VBC amongst others I cannot recall. The jacket is fully canvassed, and has a total of 4 inner pockets.. 3 pockets you can roughly make out in the pic with lining, and another lower pocket on the left. No fob pocket in the trouser band.. did not request for that as I don't find myself using it at all. The issues with back, neck, and suggestions about trouser cut and buttoning point will certainly be considered for my next project. Thank you so much for your kind advice and input! [​IMG] Also, yfyf's amazing suits were indeed a big inspiration for this suit.. Glad there is at least some form of resemblance and hope he doesn't mind!
    I walked past that store many times on my way to get vinyl. If I still lived near Singapore, I would definitely give it a try.
     
  15. Azure

    Azure Senior member

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    I like the shirt and the waist not the fabric that looks cheap.
     
  16. apropos

    apropos Senior member

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    The tailor used is Iris Tailor in Lucky Plaza: In the interest of full disclosure, I received a discount because I know the tailor's daughter from school. However, I have asked the tailor and the going price for CMT is S$785 (~USD515). Apparently I am told the husband and wife team do alterations for many boutiques like Zegna etc, so I was tempted to give them a go.. Glad I did! I have honestly no idea what other (proper) Singaporean tailors charge, so if others have had experiences with Singaporean tailors please chime in! The tailor has a good selection of H&S, Dormieul, Zegna, Loro Piana, VBC amongst others I cannot recall. The jacket is fully canvassed, and has a total of 4 inner pockets.. 3 pockets you can roughly make out in the pic with lining, and another lower pocket on the left. No fob pocket in the trouser band.. did not request for that as I don't find myself using it at all. The issues with back, neck, and suggestions about trouser cut and buttoning point will certainly be considered for my next project. Thank you so much for your kind advice and input! [​IMG] Also, yfyf's amazing suits were indeed a big inspiration for this suit.. Glad there is at least some form of resemblance and hope he doesn't mind!
    If you don't mind me asking - how many fittings did you have to undergo for this suit, and what was the interval between them. Was a ticket pocket an option? I shall certainly have to pay them a visit then the next time I stopover in Singapore. That silhouette is nearly what I want, with minor changes to the buttoning stance and perhaps a smidgen less waist suppression. Were the fabric weights all at the lower end of the scale? I'm just asking because, well, Singapore is a hot/humid place and I cannot imagine them stocking the heavier cloths. Also IMO, the piping inside appears done well, and I like the length - relative to your hands, I'd say that it's not as extreme as some members here make it out to be. And all for that price! [​IMG] When you next see the tailor, please send him/her my compliments. JibranKhan, there is a vinyl shop in Lucky Plaza?
    Wow, that suit breaks the Singaporean suit stereotype.
    You don't say. I've always associated 'Singaporean tailoring' with boxy suits, touts, and 24 hour construction!
     
  17. gshen

    gshen Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Great suit in that price, just wonder why they used "test cloth" for the 1st two fitting, normal bespoke tailor won't do that, some MTM tailor did it.

    OP, why leave the back issue to next project?The problem is fixable, why not ask him to fix it?


    I'm not sure why they it with test cloth? I may be wrong, but I think the difference between bespoke and MTM lies in the amount of details you can specify... they had no issues when I gave a long list of details right down to padding in shoulders, lapel width, lining, etc. etc., and I think they have a paper pattern saved, so I think you can rightfully call it bespoke?

    I will certainly see them again to fix the back. I will be leaving for the Philippines in several hours, so the next time I stop by the tailor's will probably be around the same time I commission my next suit!

    Very kind of folks to mention me, it does indeed have similarities to my earlier suits from WW Chan. In fact, when I saw it, I thought it was quite similar to Vintage Gent's!

    The only pick to nit is it pulls a little at the waist. Mine do that as well, but I've been trying to alleviate this problem in my more recent orders. O, and sleeve could stand to be slightly fuller.

    Looks great and congrats!


    I will probably go for just a little less waist suppression and less restrictive sleeve width next time round. PG and I were discussing how awesome your suits look just last night... it's simply phenomenal to be compared to your Chan suits!

    Azure - I think the cloth is typical of how a fresco weave would look... I suppose you do not like fresco (and Manton) then, but it is just necessary to get a cloth that breathes for me. If you have visited Singapore and experienced the heat/humidity you will completely understand what i mean!

    apropos - Total of 4 fittings, slightly less than a week in between. I did not ask for a rush job though, and I suppose it could be done slightly quicker. I was quite pleasantly surprised at the detailing in the inner piping as well! Not certain about the weights they stock, but I am sure they can get hold of heavier weights if you request for it. Really glad to be able to put Singapore on the sartorial map (well, small as it may be..) in Asia!
     
  18. Spatlese

    Spatlese Senior member

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    Continuing with the "you know you read too much SF when..." thread, the first thing that came to mind for me too was Yfyf! I think it's generally solid all around ghsen.
     
  19. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    I think the difference between bespoke and MTM lies in the amount of details you can specify... they had no issues when I gave a long list of details right down to padding in shoulders, lapel width, lining, etc. etc., and I think they have a paper pattern saved, so I think you can rightfully call it bespoke?

    I will certainly see them again to fix the back. I will be leaving for the Philippines in several hours, so the next time I stop by the tailor's will probably be around the same time I commission my next suit!



    I apropos - Total of 4 fittings, slightly less than a week in between. I did not ask for a rush job though, and I suppose it could be done slightly quicker. I was quite pleasantly surprised at the detailing in the inner piping as well! Not certain about the weights they stock, but I am sure they can get hold of heavier weights if you request for it. Really glad to be able to put Singapore on the sartorial map (well, small as it may be..) in Asia!


    Yes this would certainly be bespoke and the willing accepteance of your detailed requirements confirms this.

    I hope you do the same report on your next suit - it will be interesting to see how you influence this one. Are there other things you would add?
     
  20. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    That's a very impressive looking suit.

    I'm curious as to why the jacket doesn't have a full lining.
    Is this generally a preference or a method for keeping the cost down?


    Quite normal in hot climates - was also very comon in parts of the US for RTW at one time.
     

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