Bespoke Flannel Trousers - Cloth & Weight?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by J. Cogburn, Oct 4, 2011.

  1. J. Cogburn

    J. Cogburn Senior member

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    I am planning on commissioning a couple of flannel trousers - a mid-grey and a charcoal grey - and would like some suggestions regarding fabric. I need these trousers to cover all of the colder months (fall through spring) in Washington, DC. While I suspect that, in a perfect world, I would have light-to-mid-weight flannel trousers for the shoulder seasons and heavier flannel trousers for the winter, we don't like in that (fiscally) perfect world. But in any event, Washington's winters don't get all that cold anyway (it's rare for highs to be in the 30s, although not unheard of).

    So ... what say the cognizati regarding the best weight for these bad boys? My initial thought is 12 oz. And what say you old hands with regards to "best" fabric at the recommended weight?

    I will most likely commission these trousers from W.W. Chan, by the way.
     


  2. Michael Ay329

    Michael Ay329 Senior member

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    Ask Chan if they have an account with Gorina in Spain. For odd flannel winter trousers...I would go for 500-520gram wieght (17-17.5oz)

    For my tastes, 12oz is more lightweight flannel for late summer, early fall, spring. I always go heavier for the trousers as I can tolerate the heavier weights better than heavy stuff for my jacket/vests...especially for Washington D.C. winters
     
    Last edited: Oct 4, 2011


  3. Holdfast

    Holdfast Senior member

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    Holland & Sherry and Minnis both have some nice grey flannels spread over in the 12-14(-ish) range IIRC. The last pair I got were a mid-grey from H&S I think. For a UK winter, that's fine, provided you're wearing an overcoat outside in the depths of winter. Don't know how Washington compares to that, but if the lowest you get is around zero celsius, as you suggest, you should be OK. Then again, I don't "run cold"; in some ways it comes down to how you perceive cold as to what weight you like, doesn't it.
     
    Last edited: Oct 4, 2011


  4. J. Cogburn

    J. Cogburn Senior member

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    Wish I could say whether heavy flannel trousers would run too hot or not, but I've never owned a pair, so I don't know. All I have is a pair of worsted flannels at around 11 oz and that's inadequate to tell.

    In general, I seem to run a little cold.
     


  5. E TF

    E TF Senior member

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    I have some in 13/14oz flannel from Fox Bros, which I find just about right for a UK winter. I tend to run hot though. Lovely cloth too - really noticeable better than a pair I have in Smith's woollens 11/12oz flannel.
     


  6. mlongano

    mlongano Senior member

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    +1 on the 13/14 oz. Fox Flannel...a great cloth!!
     


  7. Cuttingboard

    Cuttingboard Senior member

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    Not bespoke but I bought several pair in chocolate, light grey and charcoal cashmere/flannel pants made by Riviera from Sierra Trading Post and I've been impressed with their look and quality.
     
    Last edited: Oct 4, 2011


  8. Macallan

    Macallan Senior member

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    I have charcoal grey flannel suit in Dugdale cloth in the same weight, although would prefer heavier for late Nov to Jan
     


  9. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    17oz plus is heavy to wear indoors and so I would suggest that 12/13oz may cover the whole gamut - fall thru spring, indoors and outdoors in the relatively mild climes of DC.
     
    Last edited: Oct 4, 2011


  10. zalb916

    zalb916 Senior member

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    I wear Minnis 14 oz. flannel in DC during the fall and winter and have been very happy with it. Minnis 0301 is the mid-grey and 0302 is the charcoal. Here's an older post in which I'm showing a pair of pants in 0300, which is a light grey, if it helps with giving you a better idea for how the flannel looks:
    http://www.styleforum.net/t/242240/minnis-fresco-0511/20_20#post_4453103
    Chan should have no issues getting you this stuff.
     


  11. J. Cogburn

    J. Cogburn Senior member

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    Lots of good suggestions, thanks. It appears that 14 oz is the right weight for me.

    Another pair of trousers I"m interested in is a black & cream shepherd's check flannel. Any suggestions?
     


  12. J. Cogburn

    J. Cogburn Senior member

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    Looks great. Do you find that fabric warm enough for you during the colder months of the winter?
     


  13. Cuttingboard

    Cuttingboard Senior member

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    Did you buy these in the DC area?
     


  14. GucciKid

    GucciKid Senior member

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    Another vote for around 14oz. I think 17oz + is going to be too warm in a heated building, and as long as your overcoat is long enough it should keep your legs sufficiently warm.
     


  15. zalb916

    zalb916 Senior member

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    The fabric is warm enough for me on the coldest days of winter in DC. I'm not hanging around outside for extended periods of time in freezing weather, but I've never once thought that I needed thicker fabric.


    I purchased the fabric from Andrew Rogers back when he was selling fabric, but it is also available here:
    http://www.hfwltd.com/bobb.php?b=jjm&c=7&p=1
    I would imagine most tailors have access to this fabric, if they don't take fabric from their clients.
     
    Last edited: Oct 6, 2011


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