Bespoke fabric

[Joefitz]

What bespoke fabric will be durable and not break the bank? I want a suit I can wear a lot that is not crazy expensive.

 

[Crispyj]

I would say medium weight cotton twill is pretty durable. But bespoke fabrics alone will run you $500+, so I am assuming you are talking about fabrics for bespoke tailoring. I got a pair of trousers from NoManWalksAlone x Sartoria Carrara (MTM not bespoke, but the quality is definitely there). Fabric is cotton twill by Drapers. You can get it in a suit (iirc). In my opinion, cotton feels more durable than wool. They also have it in gray if brown is not your thing. Pricing for suit should be around $1600.

 

[Despos]

In my opinion, cotton feels more durable than wool.

Cotton does not share the same properties/characteristics that wool has.
Will wickes moisture unlike cotton. This alone is valuable when wearing a garment. Wool can be shaped and pressed in ways cotton cannot. Wool will hold a crease longer and better than cotton. Wool has memory and retains shape better than cotton. Wool is resilient unlike cotton. Wool breathes better than cotton.
Having clothing custom made, the labor will or should be the major cost not the cloth. If you wear the suit for business or special events, cotton will not be an appropriate choice. If you want casual clothes, cotton may be the better choice. The benefit of quality wool will outweigh the extra cost over time

 

[Joefitz]

Thanks. I want wool for a suit, but wonder what fabric brands, numbers like 120 etc. would be best for a durable suit.

 

[Despos]

You will learn more working with and ordering from a competent tailor who knows cloth and can advise you. It will save you time and money until you have experienced enough cloth to understand your preferences.
Super numbers only relate the fineness of the yarns and don't convey quality.

 

[classicalthunde]

Thanks. I want wool for a suit, but wonder what fabric brands, numbers like 120 etc. would be best for a durable suit.

I agree with @Despos statement above, things like climate, humidity, frequency of use will impact fabric choice...make sure you use a tailor who is comfortable guiding you towards the right choice (that is a considerable part of the tailor/bespoke houses job)

That being said, in broad and sweepingly general terms, some things I've learned from the cloth thread include:

- the higher you go in S-number, the more fine and delicate the cloth will be. I've heard people on this board recommend staying below S130 or for everyday suits. I've also heard people say that shops that push solely based upon S-number is just a scam to get you to fall for some no-name brand cloth. I'd worry less about S-number and more about mill, weight, weave, and composition
- twill is a little more hard wearing/durable than a plain weave but will also run hotter
- heavier clothes will drape better and be more durable, but also at the cost of being warmer
- fresco and hopsack and various other open weaves tend to run cooler
- 9-12oz (or 270g to 370g) fabric is mid-weight, things below that are good for spring/summer and things above that are good for winter (once again, you'll need to account for climate and how 'hot' you run)
- some mills/merchants that get talked about frequently on the cloth thread at the "normal" end of the range are: VBC, Minnis, Dugdale, Huddersfield Fine Worsted and then a notch up from there are Holland and Sherry, Loro Piana, H Lesser/Harrison's collection, Drapers, Caccioppoli, Zenga, Dormeuil

I'm not an expert and don't know anything about your particular situation (so take it with a grain of salt) but if you're looking for a starting point for a first bespoke or MTM commission I'd take a look at the VBC 110s Perennial Collection (can be viewed on the Hall Madden site)

 

[RogerC]

Simple question, simple answer: are you in a hot climate or do you wear warm? Dugdale new fine worsted or Minnis fresco. Otherwise? Harrison P&B Universal.

 

[Joefitz]

Simple question, simple answer: are you in a hot climate or do you wear warm? Dugdale new fine worsted or Minnis fresco. Otherwise? Harrison P&B Universal.

San Diego

 

[classicalthunde]

San Diego

If you don’t mind a bit of a drive, I’d check out MyTailor/Hemrajani Bros in Costa Mesa, CA...I’ve work with them during their NYC trips. Joe and Divij are well poised to direct you to the right fabrics.