• STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Bespoke Dress Shirt Fit Advice

mutleybm

Member
Joined
May 22, 2020
Messages
11
Reaction score
2
Dear All,

I had this shirt made for me. This is the first shirt I've had made bespoke.

I've got a very slim build which means even extra-slim OTR shirts are often far too big on me.

Can I ask for advice on whether it needs alterations or the pattern changing before I order another?
 

Attachments

Last edited:

AgentGary

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 25, 2021
Messages
46
Reaction score
66
Dear All,

I had this shirt made for me. This is the first shirt I've had made bespoke.

I've got a very slim build which means even extra-slim OTR shirts are often far too big on me.

Can I ask for advice on whether it needs alterations or the pattern changing before I order another?
Who's the maker?
 

maxalex

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2016
Messages
773
Reaction score
409
It looks a bit blousy around the waist but that could be due to not being tucked in securely and the fact that the trousers are sitting quite low. Also the sleeves might be a touch long but again hard to say. I like the roll of the button-down collar, very classic Brooks Brothers. Have you washed and ironed the shirt yet?
 

mutleybm

Member
Joined
May 22, 2020
Messages
11
Reaction score
2
Thank you, I haven't washed it yet and I've given it a quick once-over with the iron to iron out some little creases.

It's tucked in as securely as I could without restricting movement too much. Would you say the collar/shoulders fit correctly, it just needs an extra couple of cm off the waist?

I tend to prefer trousers that sit a little lower, I'm not a big fan of high-rise trousers personally.
 

Phileas Fogg

Distinguished Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2020
Messages
4,157
Reaction score
3,840
Aren’t these better questions for the shirt maker who took the measurements and cut the pattern?
 

Rbpp

Active Member
Joined
Feb 1, 2021
Messages
30
Reaction score
24
I'm not sure the balance is right, the shirt does not hang properly on your shoulders.
 

maxalex

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2016
Messages
773
Reaction score
409
Thank you, I haven't washed it yet and I've given it a quick once-over with the iron to iron out some little creases.

It's tucked in as securely as I could without restricting movement too much. Would you say the collar/shoulders fit correctly, it just needs an extra couple of cm off the waist?

I tend to prefer trousers that sit a little lower, I'm not a big fan of high-rise trousers personally.
Only you can say if the collar is too tight or just right (unless the photo showed your face turning purple while wearing a tie). Try washing it and then ironing; all cotton shirts shrink to some extent, and shirtmakers--whether bespoke or OTR--take that into account when sizing. Finally, as noted above, you should also consult the shirtmaker but perhaps after washing.
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Apr 10, 2011
Messages
24,933
Reaction score
62,554
I find it difficult to assess the fit of a shirt online because shirt fabric is so light, any small movement is going to show up as wrinkles. For example:


IMG_8927.jpeg



In this photo, we see pulling going from your second shirt button to your shoulder joints. This might be because the shoulders are cut incorrectly, or because the shirt doesn't account for your posture.

Ideally, I like my shirts to fit like this. Note that clean body (no wrinkles, pulling, etc)


tumblr_m3z85pHS4K1qa2j8co1_1280.jpeg
tumblr_m1y6bm43zq1qa2j8co1_1280.jpeg



However, this is not always possible to evaluate in a photo because small changes in your posture will reasonably show up as wrinkles. IMO, it's always better to just find a good shirtmaker and entrust yourself to that person (I realize this is a somewhat circular argument, as can you evaluate the person's work without also being critical and judging; I'm not sure)

That said, I generally aim for a cleaner fit, while accepting that shirt fabric moves and that the fit of the shirt can change over time through shrinkage or bodyweight changes. I would just let the shirtmaker see me in the shirt they made for me, and ask them to address any issues that concern me (tightness, pulling, incorrectly sloped shoulders or posture issues, forward neck posture, curves around back, etc).

From the photos you posted, my feeling is that the shirt is too slim, hence why it's not draping as cleanly as it could.
 

Featured Sponsor

LARGE METAL WATCHES WITH TAILORING

  • Yes, I’m tacky like that.

  • No way José! Dress watch with leather strap for me!

  • No watch at all.


Results are only viewable after voting.

Related Threads

Forum statistics

Threads
466,714
Messages
9,991,542
Members
210,840
Latest member
brian95014
Top