Bespoke and the Economy

[voxsartoria]

Please insist on lapel buttonholes, both sides, and not those keyholes they put on everything else. Straight, like Godly fornication.

- B

 

[itsstillmatt]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Hmm. He didn't say so directly, but his initial suggestion was a peak lapel SB. I had to push a little to get a shawl lapel DB with shirt sleeve shoulders. The one thing he definitively nixed was black trim.

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Please insist on lapel buttonholes, both sides, and not those keyholes they put on everything else. Straight, like Godly fornication.

- B

Said like a man who does not know what a good buttonhole looks like.

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by iammatt

Originally Posted by SkinnyGoomba

this is gonna be awesome, i look forward to the pics!

Shock and Awe. My spalla camicia will be the life of every party.

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Please insist on lapel buttonholes, both sides, and not those keyholes they put on everything else. Straight, like Godly fornication.

No way, man. I'm going with the full Napoli: shirt sleeve shoulders, full-length front darts, and uncastrated lapel buttonholes.

 

[mmkn]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

but his initial suggestion was a peak lapel SB. I had to push a little to get a shawl lapel DB with shirt sleeve shoulders. The one thing he definitively nixed was black trim.

Hmmm, daring. What were your thoughts behind shawl and shirt sleeves shoulder versus what he recommended?

- M

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by iammatt

Said like a man who does not know what a good buttonhole looks like.

I like the keyhole on la vera Napolitana stuff, but I think they would suck on a DB shawl dinner jacket. This is because lapel buttonholes in a shawl collar are completely wrong...but made completely right through the objective of wearing a buttonhole (parse that n00bs.) - B

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by mmkn

Hmmm, daring. What were your thoughts behind shawl and shirt sleeves shoulder versus what he recommended?

I wanted something a little more daring and dashing than the standard peak lapel SB dinner suit and a little more different from a standard lounge suit.

 

[voxsartoria]

Daring and dash are the man, not the clothes.

- B

 

[rnoldh]

Originally Posted by aportnoy

Counting makes me nervous! Had my first fitting with Solito/Ambrosi yesterday.

A benign arms race, to be sure B.

Foregoing price and bespoke, I have a better suit to shoe ratio than you do

Now, if you get 100 more suits in the pipeline, we'll talk turkey.

I get the feeling that Vox is an old fashioned staunch New Englander. I bet he might only have 100 pair of shoes or less

 

[greekonomist]

Originally Posted by iammatt

He is not a big fan of shawl, is he?

I'm surprised because I imagine a shawl lapel going really well with Rubinacci's soft tailoring.

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Daring and dash are the man, not the clothes.

The clothes need to match the man. Hence, the daring, dashing shawl-lapelled DB dinner jacket with sexy-hot keyhole lapel buttonholes.

 

[mmkn]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

I wanted something a little more daring and dashing than the standard peak lapel SB dinner suit and a little more different from a standard lounge suit.

Yes I can see DB shawl as daring, but to my eyes shawl is less "dashing" than peak lapels. Peaks dash upward to say "Ta Da! Here's my face!" while shawls draw downward to say "I am subtly elegant." I keep thinking of Bogart's downtrodden face going well with a shawl lapel dinner jacket. That said, surmising your persona from this forum, I think you chose perfectly for yourself.

I do not know about the shirt sleeves shoulders though, it may lessen the purported formality of the outfit. But then, it is your dinner jacket and trousers. I am now curious to see it when it is done (and if it is done faster than usual).

- M

 

[itsstillmatt]

Originally Posted by greekonomist

I'm surprised because I imagine a shawl lapel going really well with Rubinacci's soft tailoring.
I think it would as well, but when I asked, he spat on the ground. Maybe he didn't think I was dashing enough to pull it off.

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by iammatt

I think it would as well, but when I asked, he spat on the ground. Maybe he didn't think I was dashing enough to pull it off.

I may not have heard the spitting over the phone.

Originally Posted by mmkn

I do not know about the shirt sleeves shoulders though, it may lessen the purported formality of the outfit.

We'll see. The effect has never been that distracting to my eyes, but it's always a little different, too.

 

[mmkn]

Originally Posted by iammatt

I think it would as well, but when I asked, he spat on the ground. Maybe he didn't think I was dashing enough to pull it off.

By the way you are writing about it I would say Mariano pinned you perfectly. By the way Matt F. is able to get his, I would also say that Mariano pinned him pefectly. A compliment to Mariano, really.

- M

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by rnoldh

Foregoing price and bespoke, I have a better suit to shoe ratio than you do

Now, if you get 100 more suits in the pipeline, we'll talk turkey. I get the feeling that Vox is an old fashioned staunch New Englander. I bet he might only have 100 pair of shoes or less

I counted my Aldens earlier...25 pairs. My family always considered themselves from Massachusetts, even though they spent about 60 years despoiling Michigan farmers and other honest flyover country folk. My father devoted his life to (1) finding and killing Communists and (2) recreating the family fortuneillegally. I'm pretty much the first angel in the family since we arrived on the Mayflower. Thank Adumla that my wife comes from a family of British scientists (her great grandfather co-discovered the elements neon, xenon, and krypton,) or else my boy would have a huge familial disadvantage. - B