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Berwick 1707 Shoes

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by REguy, Dec 18, 2012.

  1. meister

    meister Distinguished Member

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    Positively 21c factory
     


  2. Blake Stitched Blues

    Blake Stitched Blues Senior Member

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    @An Acute Style Burzan did a really good review here.

    I've bought three pairs of Berwick over the last few months and since there isn't an awful lot of sizing info out there I thought I'd break out my ̶p̶o̶t̶a̶t̶o̶ smartphone camera and post my thoughts.

    In general I think the construction and materials are about on par with entry level English shoes like Loake and Sanders. I think they could do with a fraction more padding under the insock and the lining is not quite as buttery soft as more expensive shoes. Break-in has been quick and painless on all of mine and there's none of the stiffness associated with a new pair of Meemins.

    I'm a suede fiend so I can't offer any comment as to the quality of their smooth finished leathers but I believe that they source leathers from Du Puy and D’Annonay and suedes from C.F Stead. Soles are mostly single-leather with some from Joh Rendenbach and closed channel stitching on a few models. Rubber soles seem to be mostly genuine Dainite and every now again you'll come across a pair on crepe or XL rubber soles.

    Sourcing
    - A Fine Pair of Shoes. Lovely people to deal with, very competitive pricing. Hard to argue with free shoe trees, free EU shipping plus a 10% SF member discount. Great range of models and excellent sizing advice.

    - The Tannery, Norfolk. Great shop to deal with and they have a modest selection of Berwicks at excellent prices. No shoe trees but they do a loyalty discount for repeat customers. I think it came to about £13 off my last buy. The website is a little clunky and it over-calculates shipping costs - send them an email after buying and they will refund the difference. As an aside, if you're looking to get your Crockett & Jones on, they're doing a 20% discount on all shoes at the moment.

    - Leather Healer, Hong Kong. No web-site but they have Instagram and Facebook pages. I haven't bought from them personally but I know that Burzan bought his there and has nothing but praise for them. Some very attractive shell makeups available.

    Le Shoos

    Plain Toe Derby via The Tannery Norfolk
    - Snuff Suede. Listed as 'superbuck' it has a very tight, short nap that looks like a cross between nubuck and suede.
    - Single (oiled?) leather soles with full rubber toplift on heel. Very comfortable.
    - This particular pair came in a darker, olive green box and has a softer lining and more padded sockliner that the other two pairs.
    - 184 last. Round toe last, slightly extended length. Fit is TTS without being particularly generous. I wear these only with thin dress socks.

    [​IMG]
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    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Apron-toe Derby via A Fine Pair of Shoes
    - Polo suede. Medium length nap, extremely soft and great depth of colour. Has a warm, terracotta-ish undertone that really comes out in direct sunlight.
    - Single leather soles with a natural coloured welt.
    - 207 last. Round toe, TTS with a fairly generous fit in the width and instep. The heel opening is quite broad so guys with very narrow heels might not get on with this last.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Penny loafers via The Tannery Norfolk
    - Listed as Tan Saddle Suede but looks very close to polo suede pictured above.
    - XL Extra Light rubber soles. Extremely light and soft underfoot with great shock absorption. Not the most aesthetically pleasing sole in the world but great if I'm going to be on my feet all day.
    - H08 last. Round toe last, TTS & quite generous in fit but I find the instep to be a little too low for my feet. These will be sent off to the cobbler for some instep stretching as soon as I get a chance.

    [​IMG]

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  3. shrink1061

    shrink1061 Senior Member

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    I too came across this brand while looking for new work shoes. I like well made footwear, but tend not to wear my good shoes to work, as theres always a risk of damage. So for cheap, elegant black shoes they had a pair that fit the bill:

    [​IMG]
    They are on a fairly sleek, slender, 129 last, with a subtle chisel at the toe.

    As with other reports though, I found the sizing to be a little off. These were easily half a size too big when I got my first pair. I am a pretty bang on consistent size 7UK (standard width) in most shoes, Crockett (341, 348) cheaney (205, 125) and a 7.5 in G&G (to be expected). In these, the size 7 was far too loose. So I sent them back and picked up 6.5. Those fit almost identically to my size 7 crockett 348's. nice slim waist, fairly close heel cup, and actually they're quite a bit more elegant through the rear half of the shoe than just about any other maker at this price point.

    They are finished pretty much on part with the standard Cheaneys I own, and have nice touches like suede in the heel, and half sewn tongue (like cheaney). Decent inners and insole, and comfortable from day one, without too much stiffness.

    I've had to sell meermins on because the stiffness just didn't clear up no matter how much I wore them, these are considerably better.

    My only grumble, is that in the UK at least, theres no way to have these re-soled and re-lined at factory. So it'll be local repairs only, but at this price level, that's no hardship.

    A decent pair of "work" shoes and a good complement to my rather more weatherproof dainite loakes.
     


  4. Blake Stitched Blues

    Blake Stitched Blues Senior Member

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    Nice top down view of the various Berwick lasts:

    [​IMG]
     


  5. Dandy_dapper

    Dandy_dapper Member

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  6. shrink1061

    shrink1061 Senior Member

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    bizarre no 129 last on that image.
     


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