Berwick 1707 Shoes

[meister]

For those who haven't watched the Berwick video on AFPOS, you should, it shows how a factory uses all sorts of new technology to make GYW shoes.

Positively 21c factory

 

[Blake Stitched Blues]

@An Acute Style Burzan did a really good review here.

I've bought three pairs of Berwick over the last few months and since there isn't an awful lot of sizing info out there I thought I'd break out my ̶p̶o̶t̶a̶t̶o̶ smartphone camera and post my thoughts.

In general I think the construction and materials are about on par with entry level English shoes like Loake and Sanders. I think they could do with a fraction more padding under the insock and the lining is not quite as buttery soft as more expensive shoes. Break-in has been quick and painless on all of mine and there's none of the stiffness associated with a new pair of Meemins.

I'm a suede fiend so I can't offer any comment as to the quality of their smooth finished leathers but I believe that they source leathers from Du Puy and D’Annonay and suedes from C.F Stead. Soles are mostly single-leather with some from Joh Rendenbach and closed channel stitching on a few models. Rubber soles seem to be mostly genuine Dainite and every now again you'll come across a pair on crepe or XL rubber soles.

Sourcing
- A Fine Pair of Shoes. Lovely people to deal with, very competitive pricing. Hard to argue with free shoe trees, free EU shipping plus a 10% SF member discount. Great range of models and excellent sizing advice.

- The Tannery, Norfolk. Great shop to deal with and they have a modest selection of Berwicks at excellent prices. No shoe trees but they do a loyalty discount for repeat customers. I think it came to about £13 off my last buy. The website is a little clunky and it over-calculates shipping costs - send them an email after buying and they will refund the difference. As an aside, if you're looking to get your Crockett & Jones on, they're doing a 20% discount on all shoes at the moment.

- Leather Healer, Hong Kong. No web-site but they have Instagram and Facebook pages. I haven't bought from them personally but I know that Burzan bought his there and has nothing but praise for them. Some very attractive shell makeups available.

Le Shoos

Plain Toe Derby via The Tannery Norfolk
- Snuff Suede. Listed as 'superbuck' it has a very tight, short nap that looks like a cross between nubuck and suede.
- Single (oiled?) leather soles with full rubber toplift on heel. Very comfortable.
- This particular pair came in a darker, olive green box and has a softer lining and more padded sockliner that the other two pairs.
- 184 last. Round toe last, slightly extended length. Fit is TTS without being particularly generous. I wear these only with thin dress socks.

Apron-toe Derby via A Fine Pair of Shoes
- Polo suede. Medium length nap, extremely soft and great depth of colour. Has a warm, terracotta-ish undertone that really comes out in direct sunlight.
- Single leather soles with a natural coloured welt.
- 207 last. Round toe, TTS with a fairly generous fit in the width and instep. The heel opening is quite broad so guys with very narrow heels might not get on with this last.

Penny loafers via The Tannery Norfolk
- Listed as Tan Saddle Suede but looks very close to polo suede pictured above.
- XL Extra Light rubber soles. Extremely light and soft underfoot with great shock absorption. Not the most aesthetically pleasing sole in the world but great if I'm going to be on my feet all day.
- H08 last. Round toe last, TTS & quite generous in fit but I find the instep to be a little too low for my feet. These will be sent off to the cobbler for some instep stretching as soon as I get a chance.

 

[shrink1061]

I too came across this brand while looking for new work shoes. I like well made footwear, but tend not to wear my good shoes to work, as theres always a risk of damage. So for cheap, elegant black shoes they had a pair that fit the bill:

They are on a fairly sleek, slender, 129 last, with a subtle chisel at the toe.

As with other reports though, I found the sizing to be a little off. These were easily half a size too big when I got my first pair. I am a pretty bang on consistent size 7UK (standard width) in most shoes, Crockett (341, 348) cheaney (205, 125) and a 7.5 in G&G (to be expected). In these, the size 7 was far too loose. So I sent them back and picked up 6.5. Those fit almost identically to my size 7 crockett 348's. nice slim waist, fairly close heel cup, and actually they're quite a bit more elegant through the rear half of the shoe than just about any other maker at this price point.

They are finished pretty much on part with the standard Cheaneys I own, and have nice touches like suede in the heel, and half sewn tongue (like cheaney). Decent inners and insole, and comfortable from day one, without too much stiffness.

I've had to sell meermins on because the stiffness just didn't clear up no matter how much I wore them, these are considerably better.

My only grumble, is that in the UK at least, theres no way to have these re-soled and re-lined at factory. So it'll be local repairs only, but at this price level, that's no hardship.

A decent pair of "work" shoes and a good complement to my rather more weatherproof dainite loakes.

 

[Blake Stitched Blues]

Nice top down view of the various Berwick lasts:

 

[Dandy_dapper]

Nice top down view of the various Berwick lasts:


So useful.

Looking for moonkstarps but the 3948 seems to be too much wide, isnt it?

 

[shrink1061]

bizarre no 129 last on that image.

 

[gbandi]

I am looking to buy the suede tassel loafer. I love the Aldens but they are too expensive. I was wondering if anyone has real life photos of Berwick tassels. They dot look very sleek and kind of blobby. Would also love to get an idea about the sizing. I wear nine UK in Meermin hiro last and 9 up in Carlos Santos 160 and 187 last. I had to size down for 234 and 333 lasts.
Thanks
Jay

 

[Kingstonian]

Yes. I have a pair of their loafers and a pair of their suede chukkas with a Dainite sole. They are both sound and very good value.

Discount Shoes in Strutton Ground stock them and they concentrate on price. Shoes that are meant to be worn daily and look good. Similar quality to Loakes and easing them out, for certain styles, in that particular shop.
https://www.discount-shoe-sales.com/berwick-1.html

 

[Alexandros15]

Hi guys,

I just received my first pair o Berwick shoes from AFPOS. I thought to share my first impression. I was looking for a classic black captoe with a rubber sole and my experience comes from Loake, Herring, and Cheaney. I mostly own brogues and more casual shoes from these brands with dainite sole and a couple of formal ones but either with leather sole or the shadow sole from loake. I was looking for a captoe with dainite and that is why I was mostly looking for the Aldwych from loake and Cheaney has a few as well and Herring of course. The cheapest option was Aldwych and I went on store to try them and they were quite comfortable and well made typical 1880 range if you have experience with them. But then I came across Berwick. I had seen Berwick in debenhans a few years ago but they did not stock size 12 in those and I never bought a pair. I had quite liked them. I thought that noone was importing them to the UK until I visited AFPOS. I ended up buying a black captoe size 12 in the 156 last. The price was much lower even compared to the Aldwych, and they came with complimentary shoe trees! The only downside was that they do not have a dainite sole but rather a welted rubber sole, it seems that they prefer to use dainite for the more country style shoes they have. The quality seems very much equal compared to loake 1880 and Herring shoes I have, which I think were made by loake at the time I bought them. I am very happy at this time they fit true to size maybe slightly on the larger side of true to size but this works perfectly for me because my foot would ideally like an F+ shoe, and service from AFPOS was excellent. Only thing is that they only have one dustbag, which is kind of annoying ?. Anyway, I believe they definitely worth to consider when thinking to buy a shoe. I believe that they are on par with Barker, and NPS as well, and Cheaney and CJ are of higher quality and finish, but I do not believe that the price difference of the two last really demonstrates the difference on the shoe quality. But again premium pricing could be also for other things and not only for quality. Concluding I would definitely recommend. I did not know the discount shoes in strutton, I will definitely visit at some point, but AFPOS service was excellent and shoe trees come really handy!

 

[StartingStyle]

Can anyone comment on how tight their Belgian loafers should be in the beginning ?
Lengthwise they’re ok but really tight around the foot.

 

[Dadacantona]

Can anyone comment on how tight their Belgian loafers should be in the beginning ?
Lengthwise they’re ok but really tight around the foot.

Just received some today. I generally take either 9 or 9.5. Tried 9 and they’re definitely too tight in the forefoot so have ordered the 10.

 

[Dadacantona]

Can anyone comment on how tight their Belgian loafers should be in the beginning ?
Lengthwise they’re ok but really tight around the foot.

For what it’s worth I also found the 10 too tight. Quite a narrow last it seems.

 

[StartingStyle]

I experienced the same - way too narrow

 

[Kivi D]

Has anyone tried their cordovan oxfords? Interested to see thoughts/opinions on them before pulling the trigger.

 

[monkey66]

Has anyone tried their cordovan oxfords? Interested to see thoughts/opinions on them before pulling the trigger.

I tried the Cordovan Wholecuts, fit was fine at a TTS UK10 but the quality of the hide on one of the shoes was too far below par for me to keep them.