Berg and Berg

[dieworkwear]

I purchased a linen Filip II sirt in my usual size, but the fit is longer and roomier than my other Filip II shirts. The arms are 2.75cm longer, which seems like a big discrepancy (measurements below).

This may be intentional and due to expected shrinkage and linen being more "stiff", or it might be a mistake in the cut (don't know how likely that is; I've asked B&B).

Has anybody else tried the linen Filip II shirts and compared the fit to the "ordinary" Filip II shirts?

Thanks,

	Cotton oxford Filip II 41 [cm]	Linen Filip II 41 [cm]
Collar (inside, measured flat)	44.25	45
Chest (pit to pit)	57	57
Shoulder (along lower part of yoke)	47.50	48
Sleeves length (along top, from shoulders)	67,50	69
Sleeves width (at attachment)	22,50	25
Cuffs	10	10,50
Waist (above third last button)	50	52
Length (BOC)	82	83

Some of the measurements on this chart may be a result of sewing tolerances, such as the 0.5cm in the shoulder

I don't know about the others, but sleeves are often a bit longer to account for how linen accordions with wear (not sure if it should be 2.5cm. I've never specified with a tailor, they've just adjusted according to how they see fit).

 

[professorclee]

I have a pair made with Brisbane Moss linen, 340 g/m, that barely wrinkles compared to the B&B trousers. Specifically, this one: https://pantalons-scavini.fr/fr/collections-en-cours/114-coupe-ajustee-lin.html

It feels much sturdier and robust than the B&B fabric (which is apparently 330 g/m but feels very light and airy).

Must be a difference between Irish linen and linen from Italian mills, which are lighter and wrinkle more easily.

 

[Sellidor]

Must be a difference between Irish linen and linen from Italian mills, which are lighter and wrinkle more easily.

That's probably it. I guess I'd much rather have Irish linen then, it's still quite airy and performs well in the heat, while holding up to repeated wears.

 

[clee1982]

is it really "hold up repeated wears" or just less winkele?

 

[hschrapel]

Wondering if anyone else has had huge latency in their order/s? I ordered last Wednesday, live in Stockholm (literally a 20 minute drive away) and haven't seen anything. They've sent me a tracking number with DHL, but it shows as only the consignment being created, not update. Contacted them, and they claim they've sent it but Covid delays with DHL blah blah. Contacted DHL directly, and they've said there are no current delays within Stockholm, and that according to their records, no package has ever been scanned in to their system with that tracking number... A lot of back and forth at the moment, with no resolution, just pissed off that I ordered a 3 sport coats from Canada the same day, and I received them yesterday... Yet shipping 20 minutes away seems to be "delayed"?

 

[Michael81]

Could also be they are shipping it from somewhere else.

 

[clee1982]

well, I got mine in the US, but definitely slower than I expected

 

[ericgereghty]

Terribly impractical, but snagged the black linen suit.

 

[Zerase]

Please show pics on how you'll wear and style it. My only idea would be a white shirt and put a black grenadine tie if I wanted to be a bit fancy.

 

[ericgereghty]

Please show pics on how you'll wear and style it. My only idea would be a white shirt and put a black grenadine tie if I wanted to be a bit fancy.

Sure thing, though don’t hold out much hope for creative epiphanies! I definitely trend boring in style, and I have imagine little will change with such an odd ball suit. We shall see.
The changes to the cut for the Dante model was, if memory serves, some combination of increased upper arms, lowered gorge, and lowered buttoning point, correct? Really hoping the upper arms (or arms as a whole) are noticeably wider. I really enjoy their mock leno jacket I got a few seasons back, but the bicep through deltoid area does sit more snugly than ideal.
Either way, hoping for a good/good enough fit. I don't like returning items, generally speaking, and doing so across the Atlantic is a definitely pain. Though, to B&B's credit, they made the return process (had to size up in the mock leno) is convenient as one could reasonably expect.

 

[ericgereghty]

Order to door in slightly under a week. If the pandemic has negatively impacted their shipping times, it seems to be extremely minimal to the US. Still excellent service on that front.

Note: apparently no more garment bags from B&B? Kind of a bummer, but not the worst thing in the world.

 

[ericgereghty]

Here’s the black linen. I’m really not a fan of the new model’s (Dante?) lapel. Would prefer the old lapel with this gorge, if I could mix and match. Upper arms are wider, which is a plus, but the lower arms actually feel a bit snugger than the old “Dan” model, though that could well be attributed to the fabric.

Fabric itself is definitely lighter than something like a Minnis linen. All things considered, using this as my gauge, I would steer clear of tailored wear without some degree of information about the fabric.

Either way, it’s good enough to keep, and definitely not worth the hassle of returning. Not a sterling review, but the value proposition means different things to different people.

 

[dieworkwear]

I can see that black linen suit being worn in a more casual way. Not sure if it works in a CM coat-and-tie context. I think of it more as a sort of Barbanera vibe.

BARBANERA (@barbanera_official) • Instagram photos and videos

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Sleazy patterned shirt, open neck, no pocket square, and slim boots or very chic loafers. Would channel more of a Johnny Cash vibe, rather than CM.

As CM goes, black linen feels neither here nor there. Color is too formal for linen; the material is too casual for business. Feels like a much more fashion-forward suit.

 

[ericgereghty]

I can see that black linen suit being worn in a more casual way. Not sure if it works in a CM coat-and-tie context. I think of it more as a sort of Barbanera vibe.

BARBANERA (@barbanera_official) • Instagram photos and videos

46K Followers, 338 Following, 3,099 Posts - See Instagram photos and videos from BARBANERA (@barbanera_official)

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Sleazy patterned shirt, open neck, no pocket square, and slim boots or very chic loafers. Would channel more of a Johnny Cash vibe, rather than CM.

As CM goes, black linen feels neither here nor there. Color is too formal for linen; the material is too casual for business. Feels like a much more fashion-forward suit.

Without question. Went into it fully expecting it to be impractical/frivolous. I don’t think I mind it as a “proper” suit, but it’s a far cry from formal. This look (tie liable to change, though obviously very few reasonable choices exist) will work for me, work wise, when needed, but beyond that it will likely just be the suit with an open necked white linen shirt.
For better or worse, if I’m going to skew very casual, I’m probably not going to be wearing tailoring clothing at all.
Though, admittedly, your stance is both the more reasonable and popular one.

 

[clee1982]

I can see that black linen suit being worn in a more casual way. Not sure if it works in a CM coat-and-tie context. I think of it more as a sort of Barbanera vibe.

BARBANERA (@barbanera_official) • Instagram photos and videos

46K Followers, 338 Following, 3,099 Posts - See Instagram photos and videos from BARBANERA (@barbanera_official)

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Sleazy patterned shirt, open neck, no pocket square, and slim boots or very chic loafers. Would channel more of a Johnny Cash vibe, rather than CM.

As CM goes, black linen feels neither here nor there. Color is too formal for linen; the material is too casual for business. Feels like a much more fashion-forward suit.

Somewhat off topic I really like Barbanera these days, even got a Blake stich side zip from them, to me a less rough and more “sexy” RRL?