Belvest at Pitti Uomo 83

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by unbelragazzo, May 17, 2013.

  1. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    From its perch outside Padova, Belvest surveys the encampments of Italian tailoring. The sleek Milanese to the West. The armored Romans to the South. The unpadded Neapolitans resting on Italy's shoestring.

    Belvest is vassal to none, ally to all. A triumvirate of headless-yet-fully-finger-jointed mannequins posing in front of the Belvest logo bear proof of the firm's dexterity in sartorial treaty-making. To the right is an example of the Jacket-in-the-Box, a deconstructed, unlined jacket Belvest introduced almost 20 years ago as an ideal casual sport coat for travel. It is a jacket that can literally be packed in a box (or weekend bag) and unfurled at the end of your journey fresh ready for service.

    The blogger blue jacket in the middle represents a trimmer, shorter, more modern silhouette, with the scant lapels typical of the species. Finally the tan jacket to the left displays a more set shoulder, an apt construction for a business suit.

    Each piece maintains careful proportions. No homage lapses into parody. The Italian appreciation of high-quality finishing is evident on every garment, from the interior pockets to the buttonholes to the swelled edges of the outerwear.

    While the eccentric will find a 100% silk and heavily plaided double-breasted jackets to covet, most Belvest realizes most garments in simple, unobtrusive fabrics in high quality wools and cashmeres, with interesting weaves and colors. Consider, for instance, the brown donegal pea coat, or the grey Prince-of-Wales double-breasted overcoat. The beauty of the cut projects, but closer inspection affords deeper appreciation of the fabric. Worthy cloaks for any night watch.

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    Various styles assembled in front of the Belvest logo.

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    100% silk double-breasted coat.

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    PoW overcoat.

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    Mottled navy-and-black overcoat.

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    Brown pea coat details.

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    Jacket-in-the-Box on a hanger.

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    Unpadded Jacket-in-the-Box shoulder.

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    JitB label.

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    Unlined JitB interior.

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    Patch hip pockets on another JitB.

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    Neatly finished interior pocket on another JitB.
     
  2. inimitable

    inimitable Senior member

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    Belvest, much underrated IMO
     
  3. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    I agree.. and frustrating. Not carried by many retailers near me. Also Belvest manufactures in many styles/models for
    their retail clients. For example, the only retailer left in San Francisco which carries Belvest caters to the crowd that emulates
    the style of Silvio Dante and Paulie Walnuts of " The Sporanos". Even online, I am unable to buy the models I prefer. As for
    Stanley Korshak's selection as displayed in their website, I don't think I would bother to try them on even if I were in Dallas.
     
  4. 63AMG

    63AMG Senior member

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    Agree, very very underrated. It's difficult to find locally for me as well. I love the jacket-in-the-box pictured above.
     
  5. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    One of the few makers of jackets that fit me with 0 alterations. Excellent quality
     
  6. steveoly

    steveoly Senior member

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    I only own one Belvest jacket and it's a quarter lined navy cashmere odd jacket. I'd say the fit is as good as it gets. I got it from a fellow SFer, and had Louis Boston tags still attached. The shoulders are completely unpadded, but it's not completely unstructured like a Jacket in the Box. I did however try a second Belvest jacket which had the silver label attached to the sleeve, and I noticed the shoulders were much different in fit and had padding which did not work for me.

    My problem is that when looking online, like many of these makers, there seem to be so many different Belvest cuts, tags, models etc, that it makes my head spin. If I could pin down the exact model of my navy jacket, I would certainly only look for and purchase that particular one going forward.

    If there are any resident Belvest experts that can elaborate on the cut or model of the jacket based on the tags, please let me know.
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    Last edited: May 20, 2013
  7. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    Belvest has a lot of variations but I only stick with the white and black tagged ones and the fit is amazing. Like you said, they have no padding or minimal padding but would like pointers on how to spot the ones with little structure.
     
  8. CaymanS

    CaymanS Senior member

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    JitB looks very nice.
     
  9. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    Where are these tags? I haven't noticed them online. As far as I know, as mentioned above the only Belvest retailer in the Bay Area
    that I know of outfits "Paulie Walnuts and Silvio Dante" impersonators. So it isn't worth trying them on.
     
  10. UncleCozy

    UncleCozy Senior member

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    I've begun to amass a small collection of Belvest, both fabric and silhouette is spot on. Getting a shipment of linen summer wear today, let's hope they fit as well as the wool/cashmere ones.
     
  11. GT me

    GT me Member

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    Have any of you guys with a Belvest suit jacket or sport coat had them altered? If so, can you please provide some details? I've heard the finishing on some of the sport jackets limits what can be done.
     
  12. steveoly

    steveoly Senior member

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    I think he's referring to the tags sewn onto the outer sleeve. See my pics a few posts up. That particular jacket would be a "black label". And there are jackets/suits with silver labels and white labels IIRC. One with a silver label had a noticeable amount of padding in the shoulders. The fit was definitely not the same as the black label jacket I own. I don't know if this legitimately is a way to differentiate cuts or not but it was something I observed in my limited experience with Belvest.
     
  13. Displacement

    Displacement Senior member

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    Shhhh, no more talking about Belvest- I can still get their linen blazers for under $300 at my local Last Call and I'd like to keep it that way
     
  14. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    I have two sportcoats and two bevest suits. On one suit,from Bergdorff in New York, I had the shoulder's light
    padding reduced to virtually no padding. No problem at all. I happen to have great tailor. For the other suit and the
    two sport coats only sleeve and some minor reduction in the waists were required. Also, no problem.
     
  15. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    Duplicate Post
     
    Last edited: May 24, 2013

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