Looking for a coat tailor that could do a full custom job on a trench coat (or close to a trench coat). In London area. Money is no consideration however I'm not interested in over the top, just a good job. Where or who can get this done?
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Looking for a coat tailor that could do a full custom job on a trench coat (or close to a trench coat). In London area. Money is no consideration however I'm not interested in over the top, just a good job. Where or who can get this done?
Just curious why you would go custom on a trench coat. Are there specific details you are looking for that are unavailable off the rack? You might also be able to do MTO, which would be considerably cheaper that bespoke. I ask because there is generally a lower return on the value proposition scale for items like this, over say a jacket or pair of trousers, where fit is a bigger consideration.
Have you ever used a tailor to make a garment for you/Looking for a coat tailor that could do a full custom job on a trench coat (or close to a trench coat). In London area. Money is no consideration however I'm not interested in over the top, just a good job. Where or who can get this done?
Just curious why you would go custom on a trench coat. Are there specific details you are looking for that are unavailable off the rack? You might also be able to do MTO, which would be considerably cheaper that bespoke. I ask because there is generally a lower return on the value proposition scale for items like this, over say a jacket or pair of trousers, where fit is a bigger consideration.
Any posture adjustments or modifications done to fit a jacket will be done to a topcoat. If you use the same tailor for your jackets and they make you a topcoat, the pattern will mirror the jacket pattern. Especially the armhole size and position as it relate to the jacket. I have a couple RTW topcoats and they don't fit as well or have the same freedom of movement as what I have made for me. Topcoats, in general, are made to fit over a jacket which probably vary in size and fit. The better the topcoat fits the better chance you have of getting a comfortable coat you can move in. The less movement you have the less likely you will enjoy wearing it.
Just selecting the cloth weight is an advantage. A comfortable weight that keeps you warm is an individual choice depending on climate in your area and how warm you run. You may want a specific weight not available in RTW.
Topcoats have less demand these days and a few makers I have seen are not making them to very high construction standards to reduce costs and retail price. You want better construction to extend longevity of a topcoat as it's not something you need to replace often and wear for only cold weather. I still wear a Chesterfield coat I made in 1985.
I got my raglan coat recently and the armholes are quite big/deep.Not all trench coats have raglan sleeves. The ones we make are like an Ulster with set in sleeves, front and back yoke, belt, slash pockets, Inverted pleat back and sometimes a kick pleat vent. I posted a picture of one not long ago but don't remember which thread.
Raglan sleeves suffer from the same issues as regular sleeves and deep armholes. If too deep, you can't move. It still has to fit the body properly and if you intend to wear jackets under this coat it is even more critical that you cut it right. You are fitting the shoulder line of the jacket, not the man.
My opinion; there is as much to gain or maybe more having a trench coat or topcoat made for you compared to a jacket/suit jacket.
Ah, so the exact opposite of what I did. My chest is 38, tailor put me in a RTW set-in sleeve coat for size 40. I didn't have much ROM, so he sized me up to a 42, which felt comfy and unrestrictive. Looks like he used that as a basis for cutting my raglan coat.Have a RTW raglan, rain coat. This was when I had a 40 chest but bought the 36. Fit is amazing. Armhole is very high. Swimming in the size 40, just kept sizing down until I liked the fit.
Looked in the closets for it, might have tossed it since it doesn't fit any more, out grew it!