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Been recommended by Reddit, where to get a custom coat in London area?

SuchUmami

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Looking for a coat tailor that could do a full custom job on a trench coat (or close to a trench coat). In London area. Money is no consideration however I'm not interested in over the top, just a good job. Where or who can get this done?
 

dieworkwear

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I use Steed and think they do really good work. They have a space on Savile Row, which they share with Chittibourgh & Morgan. Edwin, the cutter and founder of the company, worked for a time under Edward Sexton and then became a cutter at Anderson & Sheppard. As a technician, I think he's really good. I've also used A&S and think Steed is better.




 

OldTown

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My recommendation is to avoid Reddit.
 

Nobilis Animus

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What's your budget? There are several tailors in London, in addition to all the ones on Savile Row, who could accommodate a number of styles.
 

bdavro23

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Looking for a coat tailor that could do a full custom job on a trench coat (or close to a trench coat). In London area. Money is no consideration however I'm not interested in over the top, just a good job. Where or who can get this done?
Just curious why you would go custom on a trench coat. Are there specific details you are looking for that are unavailable off the rack? You might also be able to do MTO, which would be considerably cheaper that bespoke. I ask because there is generally a lower return on the value proposition scale for items like this, over say a jacket or pair of trousers, where fit is a bigger consideration.
 

Nobilis Animus

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Just curious why you would go custom on a trench coat. Are there specific details you are looking for that are unavailable off the rack? You might also be able to do MTO, which would be considerably cheaper that bespoke. I ask because there is generally a lower return on the value proposition scale for items like this, over say a jacket or pair of trousers, where fit is a bigger consideration.
It's for a trench coat? Missed that on the first reading.

I agree with this guy, OP. Bespoke overcoats make a lot of sense, but for trench coat styles you're probably better off with a Raglan sleeve and ready-to-wear.
 

Despos

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Looking for a coat tailor that could do a full custom job on a trench coat (or close to a trench coat). In London area. Money is no consideration however I'm not interested in over the top, just a good job. Where or who can get this done?
Have you ever used a tailor to make a garment for you/
 

Despos

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Just curious why you would go custom on a trench coat. Are there specific details you are looking for that are unavailable off the rack? You might also be able to do MTO, which would be considerably cheaper that bespoke. I ask because there is generally a lower return on the value proposition scale for items like this, over say a jacket or pair of trousers, where fit is a bigger consideration.
Any posture adjustments or modifications done to fit a jacket will be done to a topcoat. If you use the same tailor for your jackets and they make you a topcoat, the pattern will mirror the jacket pattern. Especially the armhole size and position as it relate to the jacket. I have a couple RTW topcoats and they don't fit as well or have the same freedom of movement as what I have made for me. Topcoats, in general, are made to fit over a jacket which probably vary in size and fit. The better the topcoat fits the better chance you have of getting a comfortable coat you can move in. The less movement you have the less likely you will enjoy wearing it.

Just selecting the cloth weight is an advantage. A comfortable weight that keeps you warm is an individual choice depending on climate in your area and how warm you run. You may want a specific weight not available in RTW.

Topcoats have less demand these days and a few makers I have seen are not making them to very high construction standards to reduce costs and retail price. You want better construction to extend longevity of a topcoat as it's not something you need to replace often and wear for only cold weather. I still wear a Chesterfield coat I made in 1985.
 

bdavro23

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Any posture adjustments or modifications done to fit a jacket will be done to a topcoat. If you use the same tailor for your jackets and they make you a topcoat, the pattern will mirror the jacket pattern. Especially the armhole size and position as it relate to the jacket. I have a couple RTW topcoats and they don't fit as well or have the same freedom of movement as what I have made for me. Topcoats, in general, are made to fit over a jacket which probably vary in size and fit. The better the topcoat fits the better chance you have of getting a comfortable coat you can move in. The less movement you have the less likely you will enjoy wearing it.

Just selecting the cloth weight is an advantage. A comfortable weight that keeps you warm is an individual choice depending on climate in your area and how warm you run. You may want a specific weight not available in RTW.

Topcoats have less demand these days and a few makers I have seen are not making them to very high construction standards to reduce costs and retail price. You want better construction to extend longevity of a topcoat as it's not something you need to replace often and wear for only cold weather. I still wear a Chesterfield coat I made in 1985.
I agree with, and understand everything you've said. The OP asked about a trench coat, which I believe are traditionally ragland sleeves. Do you think all of the above applies to a rain coat? I guess what I am really asking is, at what point does the law of diminishing returns kick in? Anything you would make me, would be much better than the things I've made for myself, but there's only one Despos and you have quite the waiting list. Do you think most bespoke tailors are able to make something like this, without it largely being an experiment on the customer's dime?
 

Despos

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Not all trench coats have raglan sleeves. The ones we make are like an Ulster with set in sleeves, front and back yoke, belt, slash pockets, Inverted pleat back and sometimes a kick pleat vent. I posted a picture of one not long ago but don't remember which thread.
Raglan sleeves suffer from the same issues as regular sleeves and deep armholes. If too deep, you can't move. It still has to fit the body properly and if you intend to wear jackets under this coat it is even more critical that you cut it right. You are fitting the shoulder line of the jacket, not the man.
My opinion; there is as much to gain or maybe more having a trench coat or topcoat made for you compared to a jacket/suit jacket.
 

FlyingHorker

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Not all trench coats have raglan sleeves. The ones we make are like an Ulster with set in sleeves, front and back yoke, belt, slash pockets, Inverted pleat back and sometimes a kick pleat vent. I posted a picture of one not long ago but don't remember which thread.
Raglan sleeves suffer from the same issues as regular sleeves and deep armholes. If too deep, you can't move. It still has to fit the body properly and if you intend to wear jackets under this coat it is even more critical that you cut it right. You are fitting the shoulder line of the jacket, not the man.
My opinion; there is as much to gain or maybe more having a trench coat or topcoat made for you compared to a jacket/suit jacket.
I got my raglan coat recently and the armholes are quite big/deep.

Movement hasn't been a major issue yet, even with a jacket. Reaching things in front of me, driving in the car etc.

I am curious to see what a high armhole raglan coat would look like though.
 

Despos

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Have a RTW raglan, rain coat. This was when I had a 40 chest but bought the 36. Fit is amazing. Armhole is very high. Swimming in the size 40, just kept sizing down until I liked the fit.
Looked in the closets for it, might have tossed it since it doesn't fit any more, out grew it!
 

FlyingHorker

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Have a RTW raglan, rain coat. This was when I had a 40 chest but bought the 36. Fit is amazing. Armhole is very high. Swimming in the size 40, just kept sizing down until I liked the fit.
Looked in the closets for it, might have tossed it since it doesn't fit any more, out grew it!
Ah, so the exact opposite of what I did. My chest is 38, tailor put me in a RTW set-in sleeve coat for size 40. I didn't have much ROM, so he sized me up to a 42, which felt comfy and unrestrictive. Looks like he used that as a basis for cutting my raglan coat.

Now I want to experiment with doing what you did in the future.

How was the back setup for vents/pleats/ets?
 

Despos

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Don't recall details on the back

If I find the coat will post a pic

I wear my jackets close. Roomy jackets are uncomfortable to me. Not really uncomfortable but I don't like the way they feel.
 
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