Bangkok tailors

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by MikeF, Jun 3, 2003.

  1. jweiht

    jweiht Well-Known Member

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    I think it's unfair to say that there aren't great tailors in Thailand, as if all western tailors are exceptional. Sure, there are the "famous" tailors that appeal to the internet savy tourist, and their work may not be as good. But hey, the price is pretty much cheaper than the west, and there are MANY crappy tailors in the west as well that cost 2-3 times more.

    Of course it would be crazy to compare any tailor to Saville row.

    But I have to agree with you that it takes a while to get a suit right with any tailor.. The relationship needs time to build
     
  2. S K M

    S K M Senior member

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    Just to be clear, I definitely didn't say that all western tailors are great - there are people claiming to be tailors all around the world. What iI did say, though, is that the best Thai tailors don't compare to the best Western. Wether you think that great tailors exist in Thailand is definitely a matter of by which standards you judge. In other words, what I'm saying is that you will never ever find a tailor in Thailand who's work can be remotely compared to that of a skilled western tailor (but at the same time you will find many western tailors doing just as crappy a job as their Thai counterparts). All that said; I think Asian tailoring is a great place to start out the venture into bespoke, since you'll learn from your mistakes, learn what suits you and what to ask for, which will make your first commission a lot more successful, should you one day choose to go all the way and commission something from a western tailor.
     
  3. Halifax

    Halifax Senior member

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    I agree that there is a slight collar gap in the photos that I have taken. However, I don't think this issue is an explicit result of the tailoring. My posture may have been slightly off from my neutral position. As you say, the shirt (which is not Tanika's) collar is a little short to give that 'bespoken' look. Most likely, I had not quite pulled the jacket completely forward, over my shoulders (even a 1/4" would be sufficient to cause the observed collar gap), as I may have been focusing too much on the camera (oh vanity). Here are some photos that may help, but you might not be convinced unless you actually see me in it.

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    Again, you are correct. It would be foolish to expect that an unstructured jacket has the same beautiful lapel roll, that I liken to 'breaking surf', on a well made canvas structured suit. However, to my eye I see a slight hollow at the base of the lapel. At the very least, it hasn't been pressed flat like on some of the Thai tailor made jackets that I've seen. Here are some photos:

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    There is no fusing in the jacket.

    I do not have the wisdom to solely deny this claim. However, I didn't just wildly speculate that the buttonholes were hand made. I spoke with several people more knowledgeable than myself about tailor made clothing and who's opinions I value. These people were confident that the button holes were hand made. Perhaps I need to take some more photos of the wrong side to help clarify this.

    What specifically make you think the buttonholes are not hand made? Is it the roughness of the silk twist? I'd love for you to elaborate on this.

    I absolutely agree. I guess this is one of the reasons why my review is rather glowing of Tanika. The results exceeded my expectation given that this was my first visit, I had never designed clothing directly with a tailor before and I only gave them 10 days. The fact that Tani (not Tanika the company) is relatively new to the tailor scene (I assumed, based upon the date she was awarded the qualification), I feel like there is a lot of potential as she matures her skills and I mature my sense of style. I look forward to cultivating this relationship.


    I would encourage you to take some close up photos and write an exposition of your clothes from Narin, for the benefit of us mere mortals.
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2014
  4. Halifax

    Halifax Senior member

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    PS when I say Tani is 'new', I mean as the tailor calling the shots and making decisions regarding styling (ie the finishing skills/polish that differentiates a good tailor from a decent tailor). I would expect that she grew up helping her mum in the studio and knows her way around a needle by now.

    Stay tuned, my dress trouser review is pending...
     
  5. meister

    meister Senior member

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    Old post but I got many good suiting fabrics in Sampeng Lane years ago when I travelled to BKK in the airlines and got stuff made.
     
  6. Halifax

    Halifax Senior member

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    Do you know which shops you used (name/number)? Or even which area?
     
  7. Halifax

    Halifax Senior member

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    Dress Trousers

    Material: 130s grey sharkskin, Vitale Barberis Canonico
    Style: Dress pants to replace worn pair as well as match waistcoat and jacket (which I did not show Tanika), plain front, two hook and bar front closure, belt loops, tapered leg with lining, standard rise, slanted side pockets, zipper fly, two buttoned back pockets, uncuffed hem.

    The style gives me the slim, neat look I was after and it fits comfortably around the waist and rear. I love the lining Tani used, which I did not specify, but I think it could have done with being a little longer as it doesn't quite make it to my knees.

    I decided to go for the neat look of the hook and bar front fasteners but I retrospect, I think buttons would have been better suited. I'm also not sure of the use of elastic in the waistband. I can appreciate that it gives the trousers a nice fit, but to me it gives a cheapened look. As previously mentioned, the break isn't quite even on both legs.


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    External side view

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    External front view

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    External rear view

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    Internal rear view of the waistband

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    Internal view of the trouser rear

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    Internal rear view of trouser leg

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    Internal front view of trouser leg

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    Internal front view showing fly

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    Internal view of the fly stitiching

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    Right side of French fly tab

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    Wrong side of the French fly tab

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    Front side of the trouser seat

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    External view of the outseam

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    Internal view of trouser hem

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    External back pocket slit and closure button

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    External corner of back pocket slit

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    Right side of back pocket buttonhole

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    Back pocket turned inside out

    Cheers,
    HPH
     
  8. jweiht

    jweiht Well-Known Member

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    SKM, maybe my rushed reply sounded a little hostile but it wasn't intended or directed to you.

    I'm just trying to say that everything should be put into perspective. The best/skill tailor in thailand or asia will never match the top of saville row, but the price and time difference is quite alot as well.

    I would love to make a bespoke at a top tailor in London, but we simply do not have the time to do so. Therefore, we have to compromise and work within our limitations to find for one at this part of the world. We wish and hope all we want that the quality can rival that of the best tailors of the west, but that is not my aim. What I do want, is the finish jacket should at least gain some "attention" when I travel with it to the west.

    In some ways, I do think we had some pretty good tailors here in Asia. I said we had, because there were some wicked tailors during the time of British colonisation, but I guess they have passed on by now. How much of that skill is handed down remains unclear.
     
  9. Halifax

    Halifax Senior member

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    JW,

    Have you considered any tailors in Bangkok other than ToT, Tanika, Rajawongse, or Narin.

    Cheers,
    HPH
     
  10. jweiht

    jweiht Well-Known Member

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    Hi,

    I didn't want to waste time on so called tailors which are just measurers who take your size and pass it to a factory. Most of them may even share the same factory.

    I may be interested to try ToT next and also Milan, but for shirts first. If the results on the suit is good, then I will also consider making a sport jacket or peacoat and another suit. Hopefully, it gets better along the way.

    Tanika makes some nice ladies' coats as well.
     
  11. Sam Hober

    Sam Hober Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It is true that overall the level of tailoring is currently not that high in Thailand but it is not correct that the skill will never match that of Saville row.

    I live and work and Thailand and I see changes that you may not...
     
  12. Halifax

    Halifax Senior member

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    Waistcoat

    Material: 130s grey sharkskin, Vitale Barberis Canonico
    Style: to match a jacket already owned, five button closure, pointed tip, lined-back with adjuster

    I think the waistcoat fit is comfortable and looks good on me. There is pick stitching around the edges and the textured lining looks and feels great.

    Apparent from the buttons not matching the intended jacket (which was a fault of my own), I quite happy. Once I get round to matching the jacket and waistcoat buttons, I'll post more pics of the complete outfit as intended.


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    Internal view of the waistcoat

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    External front view of the neck line (with visible pick stitching)

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    External rear view of the neckline

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    Back Adjuster

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    External view of the front

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    Internal view of the front

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    Internal pointed tip

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    Internal stitching of lining

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    Wrong Side of the buttonhole

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    Right side of the button hole

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    External of button, cross-stitched

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    Threaded button shank

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    Back of button stitch

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    External of pocket opening

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    View into pocket
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2014
  13. Halifax

    Halifax Senior member

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    SH,

    I'd be very keen to hear your opinion on the matter of Thai tailoring; care to elaborate? Also, I realise the thread's title specifies Bangkok tailors, but does Chang Mai have something to offer that, in your opinion, is worth considering? It would further tempt me to head North next time I visit.

    Cheers,
    HPH
     
  14. meister

    meister Senior member

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    I just used to get out of the tuk tuk and then walk down this duckboard lane into this like market place of cloth.
     
  15. Halifax

    Halifax Senior member

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    Fair enough. I guess I'll just have to walk around the top of Sampeng and Pahurat next time. Although, if you did this a few years ago, then perhaps this import tax on foreign textiles might not have been applicable.

    I wonder what will happen regarding the tax if Yingluck (ie the Shinawatra regime) does get ousted. Perhaps someone will realise how much more competitive the tailors could be without it. It could even cause the local Thai textile industry to improve their quality. Or is this unrealistic dreaming...

    PS I like how your story starts, like all stories from Bangkok. "I just used to get out of the tuk tuk... and then magically find myself in the Nana entertainment district" haha!
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2014

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