Balance

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Sep 11, 2007.

  1. Holdfast

    Holdfast Senior member

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    Interesting read, Manton.

    Yesterday, I saw a tall chap ahead of me in the line for coffee. He was wearing a single-breasted navy suit which had a serious fit problem that I wonder if it might be related to balance.

    I see it a lot with taller, thinner people, esp. when their jacket is undone. The shoulders appear to fit OK (not great, but OK) and from chest up, the jacket appears serviceable. However the skirt of the jacket develops vertical rolls (almost pleats) similar in appearance to the first illustration but at the side of the jacket rather than the centre. The front quarters also appear to hang much lower than the back which rides up similar to that first pic.

    Is this a balance issue or something else?
     


  2. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Is this a balance issue or something else?

    Without seeing him, I couldn't say. My guess is that the most likely explanation is that the person has a stooped posture, and the coat has not been properly balanced to take that into account.
     


  3. TheIdler

    TheIdler Senior member

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    Thank you, Manton, for this useful and interesting thread.
     


  4. thinman

    thinman Senior member

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    Trousers are another matter. Hardly anyone gets trouser balance exactly right.


    Nice to see that we haven't lost the old manton, though I enjoy "new manton", too.

    I think you've posted on jacket balance before, but IIRC, I've never seen any posts on trouser balance. Care to continue our education with a discourse on trouser balance?
     


  5. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Care to continue our education with a discourse on trouser balance?
    I don't have any illustrations. [​IMG]
     


  6. antirabbit

    antirabbit Senior member

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    Wow, that is so helpful.
    I had Despos tailor a suit for me, which did not have balance, and somehow it does now!
    Despos rules.
    Manton rule.
     


  7. grimslade

    grimslade Senior member

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    Wow, that is so helpful.
    I had Despos tailor a suit for me, which did not have balance, and somehow it does now!
    Despos rules.
    Manton rule.


    Sycophant.
     


  8. antirabbit

    antirabbit Senior member

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    hehe
     


  9. Holdfast

    Holdfast Senior member

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    Without seeing him, I couldn't say. My guess is that the most likely explanation is that the person has a stooped posture, and the coat has not been properly balanced to take that into account.

    Thank you.

    I think you may be right - as I say, I've seen it a lot on taller, thinner people and some of them have "learnt" to hunch over a little over the years, I think.
     


  10. Cordovan

    Cordovan Senior member

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    Trousers are another matter. Hardly anyone gets trouser balance exactly right.


    Do you have a post on trouser balance?

    I also noticed while doing some research, that your post on suit silhouettes(used to be here http://styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=5067 - at least through the HOF link) is no longer there. Is it anywhere else on the forum?

    Cordovan
     


  11. Hard2Fit

    Hard2Fit Senior member

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    Good post.
    Thx!
     


  12. Philosoph

    Philosoph Senior member

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    Manton: sartorial engineer in residence.
     


  13. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Interesting read, Manton.

    Yesterday, I saw a tall chap ahead of me in the line for coffee. He was wearing a single-breasted navy suit which had a serious fit problem that I wonder if it might be related to balance.

    I see it a lot with taller, thinner people, esp. when their jacket is undone. The shoulders appear to fit OK (not great, but OK) and from chest up, the jacket appears serviceable. However the skirt of the jacket develops vertical rolls (almost pleats) similar in appearance to the first illustration but at the side of the jacket rather than the centre. The front quarters also appear to hang much lower than the back which rides up similar to that first pic.

    Is this a balance issue or something else?


    yes its the balance. the front is too long at the top.
     


  14. Dewey

    Dewey Senior member

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    In Manton's illustration, the man with the long back has a ventless jacket.

    If we change that to a center-vented jacket, would the vent gape?

    If the back is too long and the fabric collects in the center of the back, it seems to me that bringing in the center seam (above the vent, but not all the way to the collar) would pull up the rear of the jacket.

    Is that a good guess? I wonder if a long back could be fixed this way. Or is the long back as intractable as the short back?
     


  15. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    In Manton's illustration, the man with the long back has a ventless jacket.

    If we change that to a center-vented jacket, would the vent gape?

    If the back is too long and the fabric collects in the center of the back, it seems to me that bringing in the center seam (above the vent, but not all the way to the collar) would pull up the rear of the jacket.

    Is that a good guess? I wonder if a long back could be fixed this way. Or is the long back as intractable as the short back?


    Taking in the center back has no effect on the balance.

    To correct the vent opening because of a long back you first pin up the cloth across the back at the blades, raising the back up, until the vent hangs properly. That is the amount the back needs to be shortened. You then open the shoulders and sleeves. Cut the cloth off the top of the back then remake the shoulder and attach the sleeves. Shortening at the top is the only way if you have a plaid cloth.

    For a cloth that does not have a horizontal match to the pattern you can open the side seams and back armhole area of the jacket and shorten at the bottom hem of the back.
     


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