We've discussed this kind of fashion-y stuff in the past, fuuuuma mon ami, and I think my view largely has stayed the same. I've got no issue with the mixing up of styles, but, I think there has to be an element of fun involved, or that you really enjoy what you wear, and that it comes naturally and just sort of "happens." Yohji, for instance. i think he just probably amazes himself sometimes what he comes up with. This guy, and many like this, seem to try SOOO hard. Think of your Japanese friends... I mean, sometimes mine show up wearing four different outfits, mixed together, one of which is the bottom half of his grandmother's kimono... and it looks so neat. So, it's not a "purist" sense that makes me nauseous to see this Wooster-dude, but just the affectation. even down to the goofy cigarette. I mean, when you smoke, you smoke. This guy smokes because he's "supposed" to smoke. You can tell. Well before/after fashion shows EVERYONE smokes. If you bring your kid or a dog you are obligated by la chambre syndicale de haute couture to give them a Gauloise. As you already know I'm not into those retro/americana looks because they, consciously or not, come from awfully restrictive heteronormative discourses regarding the nature of masculinity and give wearers a false sense of regaining something they were pressured into thinking was lost by enjoying more adventurous modes of dressing and living, I am, as a straight dude, of course concerned with not going in that direction as it is as much a prison as a security blanket. Masculinity as a restricted set of variables not really worth their salt anyway and that trying to break out of was something fashion helped people do. It's funny when an old queen does it though, can't help thinking he knows and is throwing it in their faces the same way he'd do if he was wearing a policeman costume. Maybe it is a little bit outdated though as it seems awfully reactive and about mirroring something he should simply be content not reproducing.