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B.Nelson does a great job

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Quadcammer, Apr 27, 2011.

  1. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    The Highlands of Central Oregon
    

    It's hard to tell from the photo but it looks to be a synthetic insole...perhaps fiberboard or even neoprene with a thin, perforated fiberboard top layer. If it is truly leather, it's even more disconcerting, simply because leather shouldn't crack like that.

    Regardless, the insole is cracked...and it will only get worse.

    Repairable? I dunno...not in and of itself certainly. I initially thought it might be replaceable but the closer I look at the photo the more convinced I am that it is Blake or Blake/Rapid. Ostensibly, it is structurally functional--holding the stitching that, in turn, holds the shoe together.

    Might need a re-craft.

    --
     
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2015
  2. lefty

    lefty Senior member

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    Haven't been there in a while and dropped off a pair of boots yesterday for new dainite soles. $190.

    Damn.

    lefty
     
  3. taxgenius

    taxgenius Senior member

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    Thanks for your insight, as usual. I tried taking a higher quality picture which or may not change your view.

    [​IMG]
     
  4. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    You're welcome.

    The photo is much better...I'm less inclined to the idea that the insole is synthetic but still not sure one way or the other. The surface of the insole looks like leather but as I said, if it is, it's all that much more disturbing.

    The insole cracking cannot be repaired...I think you can see that. And it will...can only...get worse. So the only remedy I see is cover it with a sock liner (won't stop the cracking but may stop your socks from getting torn up) or replace it during a re-craft.

    Sorry for the bad news
     
  5. taxgenius

    taxgenius Senior member

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    Thanks for such a quick reply. I reached out via e-mail to Ron Rider to see if he recalls how the Martegani factory made the insole. As an aside, any idea what is the typical (if there is one) reason for such cracking? Interestingly, the shell uppers are in perfect condition.
     
  6. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Some feet sweat more than others. The combination of salt and moisture (perspiration), and heat foster bacteria that degrade the leather and cause it to eventually dry out. The thinner the leather the more prone it is to catastrophic failure--the cracking gets to the point where chunks are actually coming out.

    Shell is somewhat occlusive, as well--it's membrane / muscle sheath...not a skin...so it has little in the way of pores--that will also hold the heat in to some extent.

    And if the shoes are outsoled with rubber, then they're occlusive 360 degrees.
     
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2015
  7. Churchill W

    Churchill W Senior member

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    Did you have something special done to them, e.g., welt change? That seems pretty pricey.
     
  8. Nick V.

    Nick V. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I'm not so sure of that.....
    We work on lots shell cords with Dainite soles.
    Insole cracking does not seam to be problematic any more than with a leather sole.
    It's far from a perfect world when it comes to footwear. Things like that happen from time to time.
    As DW mentioned a competent cobbler cobbler can install a full sock liner that will cover the cracks and make the shoe more comfortable. Just ask him to use kid skin because it's thin and won't take up as much room which would tighten up the fit.
     
  9. lefty

    lefty Senior member

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    Welt stays. Counter guy pointed out a double sole, though it's not what I would call a DS.

    edit >> Nick did look them up for and they do in fact have a DS. All is good.

    lefty
     
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2015
  10. Nick V.

    Nick V. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    After looking into it In saw that their was an error in the pricing in the amount of $25.00.
    Issue corrected.
     
  11. forbritisheyes

    forbritisheyes Senior member

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    Hoping those with experience at B Nelson can chime in:

    What is the difference between recrafting vs resoling? More specifically, what is the difference between sending shoes to the manufacturer vs sending them to nick V?

    does B Nelson shoes refinish the uppers as well as/as thoroughly as the original manufacturer does if I select the "Standard resole and heel recraft package($115)?
     
  12. Skatenc123

    Skatenc123 Senior member

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    http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showth...-Shoe-Restoration-v-B-Nelson-Shoe-Restoration
     
  13. forbritisheyes

    forbritisheyes Senior member

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    Hi Skatenc123,
    I did read that recently. I guess my confusion comes from whether or not he recrafts the uppers(and if so, is it any different procedurally than the process the original manufacturer uses?) as well or it was just a resole.

    Does he recraft the uppers in the same way since he doens't have the exact last(though very close)?
     
  14. Skatenc123

    Skatenc123 Senior member

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    Hmm I am not sure if there is any difference. I recently sent a pair to Bnelson but specifically asked for them not to touch the uppers. Changed sole from commando to leather and changed welt/edge to natural. Nick chimes in here every few days I'm sure he will answer your question when he sees them.
    before[​IMG]


    after[​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  15. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    how much would it cost to resole only "one" of the shoe. I got a CJ Northcote on Dainite, has been my go to bad weather boots for ~5 years, clip the rubber part somehow on one of the shoe. Upper is in excellent condition so I imagine I just want resole.

    edit:

    add pictures

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 9, 2015
  16. JackFlash

    JackFlash Senior member

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  17. forbritisheyes

    forbritisheyes Senior member

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    Is it worth the $ to ask B Nelson fix this or should I ask for an exchange(since I haven't worn them yet)?
    The welt on the other shoe is uneven near where the heel connects to the sole(I forgot what this is called). Can this be fixed to ever "like new"?
     
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2015
  18. shoosensuits

    shoosensuits Well-Known Member

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    I was ready to send B.Nelson a pair of AE Moras for recrafting. Needed to Google for his address and saw his yelp page filled with horrible reviews. No idea where else to go for mail in service. What concerns me most is that the most recent reviews seem to be the worst. AE OEM recrafting has some horrid reviews too. What's a guy with a reasonable budget and looking for mail-in recrafting service to do?
     
  19. Count de Monet

    Count de Monet Senior member

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    My thoughts are that if 100 people eat at a restaurant, or have shoes recrafted, or whatever, and 98 are pleased and 2 are mad, guess which two are likely to go online and beef? Point being, I heavily discount such on line, usually anonymous reviews.

    My personal experience with Nick is limited to only one pair. He personally walked me through some options, his people did a great job on the work, and they were returned in great shape and ahead of schedule. I couldn't have been more pleased.
     
    1 person likes this.
  20. Gauss17

    Gauss17 Senior member

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    I've sent them several pairs of shoes for re-soling and I have never once had an issue with them.
     
    2 people like this.

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