Austro-Hungarian school of shoemaking

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by fritzl, Feb 26, 2008.

  1. luk-cha

    luk-cha Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Sure, I want a supamodal as GF [​IMG]

    me too! must be a feww your end on the street[​IMG]
     


  2. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    On the courtesy of CCM, styleandtheman.eu

    [​IMG]
     


  3. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Does the wood-peg method of attaching soles have any special consequences for re-soling?

    Any other comments on that?
     


  4. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    The actual sole is sewn to the insole, by hand or a machine. Then you attach the final layer(s) to this construction, who builds up the basement.

    So, if you do not have a cobbler on hand, who is familiar with this technique, he can remove the pegged layer, grounds down the pegs and helps himself out with a glue job.

    Anecdote:
    On one of my shoes, the pegs loosened a bit(after 12 years). They had a aftermarket rubber sole installed. I tested this version, but didn't like. So I was intended to wear the rubber down etc., etc..

    In this case we had to decide, if i will do a full repair, what would have required, doing the pegs, twice on the damaged shoe. This is not cost effective and more of a cosmetic touch for the final result.

    So, we decided on the interim solution. Doing the glue job now, and a full refurbish later.

    Hope this helps. [​IMG]
     


  5. Sator

    Sator Senior member

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    Maftei told me that re-soling a holzgenagelt sole is much easier than a welted sole.
     


  6. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    Maftei told me that re-soling a holzgenagelt sole is much easier than a welted sole.
    If, you know how to do it, it is. [​IMG] Seriously, what Maftei is referring to: When you resole a wood pegged shoe. The pegs are not necessarily put in the same holes. That's what I understood, discussing the recent repair job. At least you can peg one layer, as it would have been in my case, and then peg the next layer on top of it. Meaning, you do not have to fiddle around with stitching holes. Janne Melkersson once mentioned. He estimates the time gap between the two techniques around one hour in the initial setup(1,5 to 2,5 hours). I'll ask Christian, how long it took him to peg my shoes. Note: He is not on the level of Maftei [​IMG] Maybe Marcell or Janne himself could shed some light onto it. Let alone, they held up a workshop together, recently.
     


  7. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    "Schottischer", Bespoke, Bela Nagy, Vienna, ca. 1960-65. Photo (C) 2008 by G.P. MARKO, Graz
     


  8. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    On the courtesy of a friend:

    [​IMG]
     


  9. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    That's a fairly English-looking last on those. Balint?
     


  10. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    That's a fairly English-looking last on those. Balint?

    Well, this might be the angle of the photography.

    I haven't seen this particular pair personally, yet, but I've seen several pairs Balint made for him.

    Their "aesthetics" is not english. It's not Austro-Hungarian either. You can call it A-H with a twist, if you like.

    I'll ask him, at least, when I'll meet him on Monday and will get back to you.
     


  11. luk-cha

    luk-cha Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    On the courtesy of a friend:

    [​IMG]


    those look like the G&G's from Will site?[​IMG]
     


  12. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    those look like the G&G's from Will site?[​IMG]

    Aaah, I see, you taught T. to copy from the best in the market. Well done. [​IMG]
     


  13. luk-cha

    luk-cha Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Aaah, I see, you taught T. to copy from the best in the market. Well done. [​IMG]

    lol but i think they came from JL London first [​IMG]
     


  14. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    I haven't seen this particular pair personally, yet, but I've seen several pairs Balint made for him.

    I'll ask him, at least, when I'll meet him on Monday and will get back to you.


    It's on his initial last, Balint made for him.
     


  15. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    the man who built more than 5000 pair of shoes...

    [​IMG]

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    family picture

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    [​IMG]
     


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