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Austro-Hungarian school of shoemaking

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by fritzl, Feb 26, 2008.

  1. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    you're really enjoying the heritage of master kiss. makes me happy...
     
  2. rikod

    rikod Senior member

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    What about this one?, I know I saved it with the name paprika a few months ago or so but I don't remember more, what is the story with this one?

    [​IMG]

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  3. hendrix

    hendrix Senior member

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    This one. It's nice to see some things done to perfection.


    This brought it to mind - the best thing about a derby is the piping/lacing area.

    It shows attention to 2 details:
    1. The quality of the leather under the stress points of the lacing.
    2. Selection of proportions.
     
  4. sstomcat

    sstomcat Senior member

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    Can you pleas elaborate?
     
  5. sstomcat

    sstomcat Senior member

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    whooo...this sure looks nice..thinking of one in black..
     
  6. hendrix

    hendrix Senior member

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    what I mean to say is that the strips of leather used in the lacing could be wider, longer or shorter, the eyelets could be spaced wider or closer, the tongue could extend higher up the instep...etc etc and the shoe would look less balanced.
     
  7. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    fond memories. it's an obsesshen...

    they belong to fellow friend gerald shen aka gshen, founder of vanda clothing, well known for their wonderful ties and hand rolled pocket squares.

    when i did a research and interest check for austrian company handmacher, luk-cha and gerald have been very helpful with information about the asian market.

    i "donated" a pair to each of them. unfortunately, luk's didn't nail the fit although due dilligence and all. g's wasn't ready, so we decided to pass this to gerald.

    he gave me a great feedback in the vass thread yesterday.

    it's not shell. this is the hide before processing.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    handmacher is a valid contender for vass, imo. they are machine made versus handmade, though. the styles are very compareable in the classic section. it's worldwide the only company, which does wood pegged mechanical. they are mto only.

    [​IMG]

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    shell, sorry for the poor picture.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  8. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    hendrix, i appreciate your enthusiasm for things done well.

    -this is a unique pair
    -my rep in sw&d is at least indifferent...

    i endorse you to post them due your opinion is highly regarded and and your rep is well deserved, imo.

    i'm pretty sure that some could do good with private lessons in understanding simple styles and the differences in details as mentioned by you below.
    i'm totally aware that judging aesthetics based on pictures is not an easy task. it takes a lot of examples. if you will, it can be compared with wine tasting.


    in my personal shoe career i found out that attention to detail doesn't mean to be specific about the bells & whistles. it's being fully aware and settled with the basics. that's from where you go...

    i'm glad you're participating in this thread and give your insights. it spices it up in a good way and gives me inspiration to go full nine yards...
     
  9. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    " piping" en Anglais (English)
     
  10. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    passepoil is the international term. we're here to learn...
     
  11. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    sage
  12. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    well, their system is based on mto only. their system offers two different lasts in three different widths + additional instep volume(6 mm) when needed and four different sole options: leather, leather with rubber tip. rubber sole fine, commando sole.
    they recommend their resellers to stock up on certain models to have a variety on display.

    steps to the original procedure, conditions are subject to change:

    ideally, you get measured with an authorized person to get the fit nailed.
    if you already know your parameters you can order online.
    certainly, it's up to you to order from reseller stock and omit this step. it's not recommended.
    you can calculate your own risk with the return police of the seller, though.

    thank you for posting the sources.
     
  13. Sterling Gillette

    Sterling Gillette Senior member

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    You are right in some ways. Handmacher doesn't have a true collection of RTW shoes as their main business is MTO/MTM through their franchise partners (comparable to Ambiorix, although with a different styling). They do produce stock specials and offer seasonal leathers, though. Many franchise partners also decide to order a number of standard shoes for walk-in clients. Handmacher themselves only have one model which is never out of stock: a half brogue derby in black calfskin on a double sole.
     
  14. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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  15. rikod

    rikod Senior member

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    Just a few pics I saved browsing the first few pages of this thread, love them all.

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    [​IMG]

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  16. rikod

    rikod Senior member

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    Super nice!
     
  17. sstomcat

    sstomcat Senior member

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    +1
    who is the maker for the last pair?
     
  18. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    Does the sign actually say 340 Euros?
    If so, that's not at all bad.
    Ludwig Reiters in the last that fits me is more.
     
  19. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    this is the price for the briefcase.

    depending on the line "classic" or "primus", the prices are lower. there's a msrp and the resellers have certain boundaries within the MSRP. in the company store they sell seconds and sample models which are real bargains.

    reiter is € 498,- nowadays for basic models in calf. iirc mto upcharge is 30%.
     
    Last edited: May 30, 2012

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