Austro-Hungarian school of shoemaking

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by fritzl, Feb 26, 2008.

  1. Axxl

    Axxl Active Member

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    Thanks for the repost. I am here for your questions...
     


  2. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    gut
     


  3. Axxl

    Axxl Active Member

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    OK, what is it?
     


  4. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    you're welcome
    well, you mentioned that you'll receive your first pair of bespoke shoes from maftei, ordered at their regular held trunk show/measurement day in frankfurt. i was wondering, why you didn't ask them for overhauling your florsheims. exotic is delicate, so i would like to discuss this in person, instead of a long distance transaction. btw, mr. haus can take care of your toe protection.
     


  5. Axxl

    Axxl Active Member

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    Dear Sir

    trouble with Mr Maftei is, that he is in frankfurt only every 4 weeks. I have heard only the best things about Mrs Ehlers and wanted to give it a try. Her prices seemed reasonable enough. So after a long telephone call (she is a nice person, too) I made the decision, packed them and got them back within one week. I can only say that I am quite pleased with the result.

    A question now from me: Why do you think Alligator is delicate. From all I know about leather this is some of the most robust hide there is.

    Looking forward to hearing back from you.
     


  6. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    ah, ok.


    delicate to repair.
     


  7. Axxl

    Axxl Active Member

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    You know Ms Ehlers in person? Whats your opinion? You seem quite reluctant. Any specific reason?
     


  8. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    i know her. it's just, i don't send shoes for repair to anyone in the world. i talk to the person, who is doing the job personally and i pick them up myself, that's all.
     


  9. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    well, on popular request i'll kick it off again...
    [​IMG] here you can see four interpretations of the heel cup and heel shape. for those who own the vass book, there's a good illustration of the development of said heel shapes. from left to right: norweger(nst), half brogue derby, norweger, half brogue derby, the first two were made by master kiss and are pretty much what the term old school means. third, a bespoke number by maftei/vienna shows a little more refinement, it is also a thomas heel(see below). the fourth is made by another master shoemaker mr. feher. this pair has seen a lot of wear time and has a lot of miles on the clock. it's around fifteen years old and only just received a small heel service on one shoe. all of them are on their original heels. well, quality and the knowledge accumulated over the years how to treat and maintain your shoes definitely pays off, imo. [​IMG]
     


  10. rikod

    rikod Senior member

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    Amazing all of them, thank you for the explanation, do you have a front photo of that setup by any chance?
     


  11. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    you're welcome.

    only this top view:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     


  12. rikod

    rikod Senior member

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    Oh God, I love them all, great pictures, the brogues and medallion in the second from the left are partcularly beautiful to me. The shape remind me a bit some of the Vass lasts like the Peter and 3636, would you agree?
     


  13. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    absolutely. more 3636, imo.

    if someone is picky, you can claim that the medaillon is too close to the brogueing. oh well :D
     


  14. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    picked this out of a discussion about sole thickness and massive frames.


    because i had some adaptions done by my cobbler on one of my pairs. sole thickness went from triple to double and the edges have been grounded down to get back in balance. all it needs is a skilled person who understands your "visions" and can take care of them.

    [​IMG]

    reducing the frame served another purpose. i wanted the edges to be natural and raw to be able to experiment with different colours and treatments. i went with burgundy with this and brown with a siblings pair. no pictjure update yet.

    before somebody asks, the trees do not sit correctly due the footbed is removed.

    they are eighteen years old and have seen extensive wear.
     


  15. rikod

    rikod Senior member

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    I guess this is the most important part, someone who can not only understand but to do it correctly, and if ones vision have any flaws, fix it.
    I recall a forum member in the Vass who had some of his shoes welts trimmed down closer to the uppers, imo his cobbler over did it a bit and it looked too close in the front and not in balance, maybe not too noticeable IRL but it looked that way in close up pics.

    I still think thet ishis pair (that prompted my ignorant comment above) would benefit from a job like this. Your pair look very good with a double sole.
     


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