1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

Austro-Hungarian school of shoemaking

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by fritzl, Feb 26, 2008.

  1. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

    Messages:
    12,299
    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2006
    Location:
    Gmunden, Salzkammergut, Austria

    it's simple, this is the iconic budapester last aka sharkmouth on a budapester model with 270 degree goyserer welt.

    as good as it gets.
     
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2012
  2. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

    Messages:
    12,299
    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2006
    Location:
    Gmunden, Salzkammergut, Austria
    you guys keep me busy. it's a nice morning routine to check the thread and i absolutely get used to it. keep em coming.


    so, i was close. haven't seen the F in person, yet, so i keep my opinion reserved.

    do you already know, if the 3636 fits you and what combination do you have in mind?
     
  3. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

    Messages:
    12,299
    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2006
    Location:
    Gmunden, Salzkammergut, Austria
    

    yes, i do.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    handmacher mto. old horse oxblood calf.

    and a little anecdote: when i first met master Feher in 1996 we discussed my first bespoke order.

    Feher: i make you a plain derby. what colour do you want?
    me: ahem, i want a ..., tbh, i don't rember
    F: well, than i don't make you a pair of shoes.
    me: no, no make it...

    today i know that with your first order, you're pretty safe, when you keep it simple. i highly regard his opinion. it's always on my mind.

    all the makers i met in my life had/have their quirky mannerism. is it better than meeting a sales rep. at a trunk show? imo, it is more authentic.

    i have tons of these cute little stories in my head. i have written down a few in my mother tongue. please, do not hesitate to push the buttons, if this kind of stories is your thing. i would love to share with people of the same mind.

    ps: can you give me a hint which one is the unbelievable?
     
  4. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

    Messages:
    12,299
    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2006
    Location:
    Gmunden, Salzkammergut, Austria
    

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    i was able to get them for a fellow member and he really likes them.
     
  5. rikod

    rikod Senior member

    Messages:
    1,218
    Joined:
    Nov 7, 2010
    

    That last one you just posted if one of them (and the one above too). Different styles, Both fantastic
     
  6. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

    Messages:
    12,299
    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2006
    Location:
    Gmunden, Salzkammergut, Austria
    

    right now, i'm a bit lost :eek::fistbump:
     
  7. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

    Messages:
    3,880
    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2009

    I like the P2 too, but right now I like the idea of an F last blucher in suede. I find suede dresses up and down nicely, although I'd draw the line at wearing suede with shorts.

    My thinking is that if the last fits u just need to vary the style to cover the entire wardrobe.
     
  8. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

    Messages:
    12,299
    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2006
    Location:
    Gmunden, Salzkammergut, Austria
    

    +1,
     
  9. rikod

    rikod Senior member

    Messages:
    1,218
    Joined:
    Nov 7, 2010
    

    Why?, what I meant is that I like both derbies you just posted in this page, that they are different styles but love them both.

    What about oxfords?, what is the place of oxfords in the AH school?, I prefer derbies in general but I enjoy oxfords too and fit me well.
     
  10. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

    Messages:
    4,503
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2008
    Location:
    New York
    

    Thinking about doing those in a boot version in dark brown scotch grain for next Winter...is the 270 degree goyser more traditional than the 360 degree version?
     
  11. rikod

    rikod Senior member

    Messages:
    1,218
    Joined:
    Nov 7, 2010
    

    No, but I have received enough feedback from members and from Vass and I'm willing to order based on that. I'm undecided between a Theresianer, Atl Wien, plain toe, or a norweger in light colored grain. I'm leaning toward a plain toe or the norweger. It will be a gift from my wife for my 50th birthday. Any suggestions would be welcome!



    You are right, it's a personal thing, I'm used to wear more substantial? footwear with jeans.
     
  12. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

    Messages:
    12,299
    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2006
    Location:
    Gmunden, Salzkammergut, Austria
    

    great to see you here. david, tbh honest i don't know.

    from my personal experience according to my conversation with the three master shoemakers mr. kiss, mr. feher and mr. kovacs, they preferred the 270 for shoes. we never discussed boots, though.

    here's my bal with 270 goyserer made by mr. kovacs. imo, a hybrid. he didn't complain.

    [​IMG]
     
  13. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

    Messages:
    12,299
    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2006
    Location:
    Gmunden, Salzkammergut, Austria
    


    are you referring to page one or to pictures after the weekend kick off?


    i haven't seen many. here's an example from the workshop of mr. materna

    [​IMG]

    i would say that oxfords are a niche product in the AH tradition. when you find some in the workshops of e.g. materna, balint, maftei, petkov to name a few of the viennese workshops they are mostly influenced by english or italian characteristics due to the demand of their international clientele. the typical local client deceides between theresianer, alt wien and norweger, that's it.
     
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2012
  14. imatlas

    imatlas Senior member

    Messages:
    8,518
    Joined:
    May 27, 2008
    Location:
    El Barrio

    My only Vass are a pair of norwegers in a light colored grain on the P2 last. I love them, and have received many compliments on them. I think they look fantastic with a pair of dark wash denim.
     
  15. rikod

    rikod Senior member

    Messages:
    1,218
    Joined:
    Nov 7, 2010
    

    Sounds great, can you post a photo of them?
     
  16. rikod

    rikod Senior member

    Messages:
    1,218
    Joined:
    Nov 7, 2010
    

    Both are really nice.

    In the oxford I like the way everything matches, the grain and reg. leather in the laces area matches the wt / vamp area. all brogue lines and curves are almost perfectly paralel, it's very pleasant visually, my wingtip is not like that, never seen a wingtip like that.

    That made sense?, maybe I need help here, again, sorry for my bad shoe vocabulary, DWFII would hate to read this.
     
  17. rikod

    rikod Senior member

    Messages:
    1,218
    Joined:
    Nov 7, 2010
    Budapest Oxford from Vass

    [​IMG]
     
  18. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Senior member

    Messages:
    2,899
    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2009

    It's fantastic.
     
  19. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

    Messages:
    3,880
    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2009
    Have the same shoe, but in smooth not grain, and they're my most complimented shoes. It's the handy 'lake' stitching that catches the eye, I reckon. Character shoes.

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]





    I jus realized the EG chelsea at the left looks insipid up against the AH. Deflated, weak. Oh well.
     
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2012
  20. rikod

    rikod Senior member

    Messages:
    1,218
    Joined:
    Nov 7, 2010
    ^ wow, what a post, breathtaking, thanks
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by