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Austro-Hungarian school of shoemaking

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by fritzl, Feb 26, 2008.

  1. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    much appreciated. they now belong to fellow member itsstillmatt: Hey Gerd, They arrived .... Beautiful shoes, and the fit is spot on.
     
  2. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    it's been a while i've been to vass, u, f and p2 haven't been on the stage yet.

    long story short:

    i went to budapest over the weekend with three friends and we had a blast. i should do a write up. fond memories. the vass book was hot and fresh and we were obsessed with the idea of a bespoke pair from vass. two ouf us had a little experience in the field. the person in charge had his day off and one of us ended up with a pair of half brogue oxfords in tan. the rest is history...
     
  3. sstomcat

    sstomcat Senior member

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    My next shoe is going to be a Norweger for sure!...cheers
     
  4. rikod

    rikod Senior member

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    Ok, Me too but it have to be identical to that one, nothing less.
     
  5. Xenon

    Xenon Senior member

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    Can you explain this. These are handwelted ( I presume) so that the insole is securely stitched to upper, welt, etc, which means that it cannot be removed (without destroying the shoe)? Is the footbed just the heel liner? but that is very thin
     
  6. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    sure. sorry for the misleading use of the term footbed and no it's not the heel liner.

    it's a full sockliner which is applied on a layer of cork. ca. three milimeters. there's also an arch support(pelotte) built in. this conforms the "footbed" and is a common practice in the austro-hungarian shoemaking tradition. certainly the insole is handwelted and the sole is woodpegged.

    hope that helps.
     
  7. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Senior member

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    I have to tell you, these cork lined sockliners sound very comfy.
     
  8. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    right you are. imo, they are also helpful in adjusting minor fit issues. been there, done that, got the shirt.
     
    Last edited: Apr 22, 2012
  9. sstomcat

    sstomcat Senior member

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    Agree
     
    1 person likes this.
  10. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    :blush: guys, you make me shyly.

    you know, i have the same model and i really enjoy them. i will not promise anything, i cannot hold up later. but, i want to let you know, if there is anything i can do to reach this goal, i'll try my best. word.
     
  11. rikod

    rikod Senior member

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    What is the difference?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  12. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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  13. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    both are the wiener model/style. wiener is either the name for a last and a model.

    whereas they both look good, the first one is a hybrid. the wiener never came with a goyserer welt. to make things more confusing and complicated. the first one is on the 3636, which is vass' name for the original wiener last. yours is the wiener model and is made on the p2 last.
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2012
  14. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Senior member

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    This style is one of my favorites. Good stuff.
     
  15. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    let's talk budapester then. same as the wiener, budapester applies for both - model and last. the budapester is a very distinctive last hence the nickname sharkmouth.
    ambassador and one of the most popular wearer was budapest born stock market expert André Kostolany

    pictured is a budapester model on the, i have to guess, p2 or F last.

    the budapester comes in three basic variations:

    standard welt, as pictured

    270 degree goyserer welt

    360 degree goyserer welt

    unfortunately the website with a pictorial of the historical development of this iconic last has changed and is no longer available.
     
  16. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Senior member

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    Nice looking shoe. Why do I always see this shape forefoot associated with the budapester?

    [​IMG]
     
  17. imatlas

    imatlas Senior member

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    ^ that would be the aforementioned Budapester last. They look like clogs to me.
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2012
  18. rikod

    rikod Senior member

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    That is the F, more narrow & pointy, I ordered that one inspired in a photo posted by A Portnoy in the first few pages of the Vass thread. Love this shoe, but only for business dress, too sleek for my taste to wear casual with jeans etc. My next budapester will be in the P2 or 3636 in shell.
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2012
  19. rikod

    rikod Senior member

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    Very interesting, thanks. I saved the image in my hard drive and was drooling over it for awhile and inspired me to order mine. I decided to order without the goyser stitching because I wanted to make it a little less casual for use at the office, in my mind at least, I would've make no difference looking back now. I'm pretty sure both are in the new peter last though.
     
  20. rikod

    rikod Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Guys, what about plain toe derbies?, one of my favorites. I have posted this images a few times in the Vass thread. Vass grain is really nice and lustrous. The cognacs obviously casual with vibram soles. The bordeaux I use for everything, actually Vass made a mistake with those, I ordered with a double sole and they made it double tapering to single. I was disappointed initially but I quickly forgot about it, no problem with the soles, very happy with the color too. The suedes are very nice as well, Love PTB's,

    There are some unbelievable ones at the beginning of this thread, tell me something about them?
     
    1 person likes this.

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