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Austro-Hungarian school of shoemaking

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by fritzl, Feb 26, 2008.

  1. gnatty8

    gnatty8 Senior member

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    Those are wonderful shoes, and all handmade! Its amazing how craftsmen exist out there, making beautiful shoes like this, but charging less than the designer pieces of shit that are spewed out of factories on assembly lines..
     


  2. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    a shoe in progress:

    [​IMG]

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    [​IMG]
     


  3. Sebastian

    Sebastian Senior member

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    Great pics, fritzl!

    Although I am not a fan of the (sturdy) Austro-Hungarian lasts (and I am Austrian! [​IMG] ), the level of craftmanship shown in the pics above and in the whole thread is impressive...
     


  4. MarcellHUN

    MarcellHUN Senior member

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    the man who built more than 5000 pair of shoes...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    family picture

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    [​IMG]


    Who is this "man"? Maybe he would deserve to mention his name.. (sorry if I missed it)
     


  5. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Who is this "man"? Maybe he would deserve to mention his name.. (sorry if I missed it)

    Kalman Berta. Mentioned above.
     


  6. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    Kalman Berta. Mentioned above.

    Kalman Berta is the lastmaker and maker of the trees.

    I'll lift the curtain soon. I am proud to be part in "operation paprika", cheers
     


  7. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    Who is this "man"? Maybe he would deserve to mention his name.. (sorry if I missed it)

    he is the man and he is my personal hero...
     


  8. marcus-

    marcus- Active Member

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    These shoes look wonderful. I especially like the norwegians.

    I am also interested in if there is a historical reason for the preference for derby style shoes.
     


  9. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    I am also interested in if there is a historical reason for the preference for derby style shoes.

    it's just a guess:

    [​IMG]

    Bilgeri Stiefel
     


  10. MarcellHUN

    MarcellHUN Senior member

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    Kalman Berta. Mentioned above.

    Kalman Berta is a lastmaker (and unfortunately he is not active anymore because of a sad accident), but his sons continue the trade. This shoemaker must be in Papa, so I have some ideas who it is. On the other hand - even if they are handmade - I don't like some details in his work. And I say it as a Hungarian shoemaker.
     


  11. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    Kalman Berta is a lastmaker (and unfortunately he is not active anymore because of a sad accident), but his sons continue the trade. This shoemaker must be in Papa, so I have some ideas who it is. On the other hand - even if they are handmade - I don't like some details in his work. And I say it as a Hungarian shoemaker.

    Kalman Berta died 3 or 4 years ago. his son is the man in the pictures fitting the trees.

    no it is not jenö kovacs, who retired five years ago. kalman berta confirmed, that he is still alive. i'll pay him a visit next time i am in pápa.

    would you mind discussing details. this thread is also about learning new things and i am interested.
     


  12. MarcellHUN

    MarcellHUN Senior member

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    I mean: fashion has changed. No problem with the quality (and if it would be any, I would be the last to mention because of respect), just I would make some things different, like broughing, instead or folded edge (which is - no question about it: very traditional and nice), and some really little things. This man - whoever he is - must be a great master. Clean, nice, precise work - typically austro-hungarian.. [​IMG]



    Kalman Berta died 3 or 4 years ago. his son is the man in the pictures fitting the trees.

    no it is not jenö kovacs, who retired five years ago. kalman berta confirmed, that he is still alive. i'll pay him a visit next time i am in pápa.

    would you mind discussing details. this thread is also about learning new things and i am interested.
     


  13. MarcellHUN

    MarcellHUN Senior member

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    And someone asked me about those wrinkles on the vamp. THEY ARE NOT BECAUSE OF THE POOR WORK! Someone put the wrong trees inside - thats all.
     


  14. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    And someone asked me about those wrinkles on the vamp. THEY ARE NOT BECAUSE OF THE POOR WORK! Someone put the wrong trees inside - thats all.

    no, marcell not the wrong trees.

    the trees have been fitted in a very accurate process. but i takes some time until the trees and a brand new pair of shoes "work" together. the photographer was not aware of this and i didn't think of this either.

    it's my fault. i already mentioned this laziness of mine elsewhere.

    i rechecked all the shoes a few days ago. no wrinkles at all. well done by master kálmán berta and his assistant.

    on a random note, i like the idea, that people ask questions...
     


  15. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    a voice from melbourne
    ____________________________________________________

    They arrived only after a week. l am absolutely delighted with the shoos. PERFECT FIT!!! A real glove like fit: couldn't have had them any narrower or shorter.

    l'll try and post a topic on this tommorrow with pics.

    Lots of Kiss spirit, but also a little bit of fritzl spirit in my shoos also (both are good things). [​IMG]

    l'd like to get another Kiss shoo in about 3 - 4 weeks. l'll talk about that tommorrow. l'd like to get 4 or 5 more pair over the year: if any other Kiss in my size comes up, let me know ASAP!
    ___________________________________________________

    [​IMG]

    the shoe in question is a UK 7 and converses to a EU 42.
     


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