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Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by earthdragon, Nov 18, 2008.

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  1. I am DIL

    I am DIL Senior member

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    www.cladmen.com/


    Esquire launched the website with some other ecommerce company last year some time. According to sources, it just wasn't ready to take off and the project was recently abandoned.
     


  2. lachyzee

    lachyzee Senior member

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    Charlie's Wardrobe (and anyone else with experience): what are your preferred Cottonwork options... ? Or to ask the question another way, what's been your experience with the collar/cuffs/yoke etc. options that they offer.

    Any other tips apart from those you posted earlier (request soft interlining/high collar with single button)? Do the shirts shrink at all? Any weird measurement quirks?

    Also, have you ordered darts or any of the pleat options? Not sure what they will do if I select darts: i.e. how much will be darted.

    I'm going to order a test shirt based on an R&B shirt I own - it fits nicely but is darted like all my shirts. I'd like to stop using darts in my shirts if possible, but I'm not sure if I can get the fit around the back that I want without them. The guys at Katrina's certainly don't think it's possible. I actually think darts look quite good on patterned shirts when the pattern is matched correctly (which Katrina's always do), but are much more noticeable on solids.

    So I'm not sure whether to measure this shirt and just ignore the fact that it has darts, or ask for the darts option to be added.

    A lot of my OTR shirts end up having a box pleat & darts, which I feel makes for a few too many things going on on the back of the shirt at once (particularly on an OCBD). Given my body shape (big neck/shoulders, slim waist), it's hard to imagine going with any other combo that would be slim but still have some movement. I guess that's why I am trying MTM...!

    Thanks
     
    Last edited: Apr 7, 2012


  3. Prof. B. Bear

    Prof. B. Bear Senior member

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    I've ordered 6 CottonWork shirts. I don't ask for the double collar like Charlie does but I think that is more personal preference than a must have. I always got the cutaway collar and emailed them right after ordering that I would like the softer interlining.

    You don't need to get pleats if the shirt you are measuring has pleats. I measured using an existing shirt (which has pleats) and it came out the same. My first shirt was the superior 1 ply range and I haven't noticed any major changes after washing and tumble drying it multiple times.
     


  4. Henry Carter

    Henry Carter Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Apart from the above not too much to add. I've had a few different cuff options but always button cuff as I don't wear french cuffs at all. I've never had darts in any of them and I have a reasonable drop of 8 inches. I've had darts added on some otr shirts I've had altered but prefer not too really if given the choice.

    I will say as I mentioned to one of the other guys that pm'd me about cottonwork it took me a good 6 shirts to get the tweaking and details down pat to where I am now. Now I have I'm very happy with them apart from a few little nit pics like the thinness of the MOP buttons and I get about 2 or 3 pm's a week about them so must be doing something right.
     


  5. Plestor

    Plestor Senior member

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    Firstly I have not used cottonwork itself. A few comments however.

    Firstly darts will change the front/back balance lower down the shirt without taking the seam offf your side. This allows the shirt to cut trimmer into the nape of the back without being tight across your gut. Furthermore given you have a large drop having a very tight waist measurement can look odd. I don't know how well they do their pattern matching but you may be better off getting them post darted and leaving some extra room.

    Similar reasons are why non "sack" jackets are darted. I'd also point out that they don't do split yokes with all the problems that it implies.

    On pleats only the waterfall style (forget the correct term) actually adds noticable room which they don't offer (based upon their website). Carl (CEGO) had a nice explination of why this is so but I can't seem to find it.

    Box pleats (and then darts on rtw / if require for posture) are very traditional with OCBDs

    A few general tips on mtm:

    Cuffs that fit with extra length in the sleeve works out *much* better and is also safer... the problem is if you wear overly thick watches for obvious reasons. Really look over the example shirt carefully before putting the measurements in, ideally get someone to check for issues that aren't easily fixable in rtw (mainly around posture and shoulders).Slim is over-rated you (or atleast I did) will find yourself moving to something more moderate now that you can choose each area's fit individually.
     
    Last edited: Apr 7, 2012


  6. md2010

    md2010 Senior member

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    Gents what do you guys think of Country Road SC ? I have never purchased any thing form them before (everything seems a little too big). However yesterday came across this SC in DJ . It looked really nice. And after I tried it on I was surprised to see it had quite slim fit. My mrs imposed a 8 months ban on my shopping so didn't end up buying this. What are your thoughts on this ? I was at $299 which is not bad becos CR goes on sale quite often.

    http://shop.countryroad.com.au/#pag...wear/Apparel/60146657/Velvet-Item-Jacket.html
     


  7. fxh

    fxh Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    I occasionally wear the above bands when others annoy me at work with various New AGE and PR Feel Good causes.
     
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2012


  8. fxh

    fxh Senior member

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    Gerry - I think that looks fine - even these days. Most pants are too tight and narrow.
     


  9. RemyMichel

    RemyMichel Senior member

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    Not a fan of the lapels curviness, i prefer a straiter peak lapel.
     


  10. Gerry Nelson

    Gerry Nelson Senior member

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    fxh, you're too kind. Those would be ok if they were pants but they were black jeans, if I recall :) I was so proud to get that biker's jacket - the buttons had little skulls and crossbones.
     


  11. Plestor

    Plestor Senior member

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    Ha I wear ~9' hems on a 29ish' waist.

    Also no to the jacket but I make fxh look progressive at times...
     
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2012


  12. Nathan5653

    Nathan5653 Active Member

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    Hi everyone, apologies for my first post being a question but this has been bugging me for a while and I just found out about styleforum. I'm a first year university student and I'm looking to find a nice fitting suit for formal events. However, I can only spend something around ~$500 so I have no idea where I should be looking.

    Thanks
     


  13. fxh

    fxh Senior member

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    Oh I could improve it but the basics are ok. Hope you kept the jacket.

    I'd shorten the jeans. Black denim is fine. Its a bit rock an roll dog look. Shorten jeans, black belt with silver studs or something, black docs or clompy style boots, white T shirt a bit higher collar on T, white western /cowboy shirt with embroidered seams, pearl studs, etc, or blue denim shirt with metal or pearl white buttons. Keep the 'fro.
     


  14. Henry Carter

    Henry Carter Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Hi mate welcome to the forum. Tell us a bit more about where you are based and one of us will be able to give you some more advice.
     


  15. Gerry Nelson

    Gerry Nelson Senior member

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    I wish - that was back from 1993 when I was still in university. Those clothes are long gone but funnily enough I did keep a blue denim shirt with pearl white buttons. The 'fro was on the way to growing a ponytail.

    I hear what you're saying about the rest, though.
     


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