Australian Members

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by earthdragon, Nov 18, 2008.

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  1. lennier

    lennier Senior member

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    I talked to them a fair bit before deciding to go to PJohnson. They sound good but they are a little dearer than PJohnson and there was more direct experience on the forum with the latter so I decided it was less risky. Pinstripe's process sounded interesting though unless I misunderstood it, sort of half way between MTM and bespoke. Sounded like they had a proper fitting part way through the making (rather than just a post-make 'fitting' where any alterations are identified). Not sure how that would work logistically though so I could be wrong. Also I think they are only half canvassed from what Nick said ('minimal fusing' I think was the term he used) and what is implied on the website, for what that's worth.
     
  2. meister

    meister Senior member

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    No... spalla camicia is roping which is a whole detail. I mean puckering or dimpling a bit like in a tie fold around the sleeve head. Can anyone help explain this?
     
  3. lennier

    lennier Senior member

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    Actually I thought spalla camicia was a very soft unstructured shoulder (literally a 'shirt shoulder'). The ruffling you are talking about though is generally called a Neapolitan shoulder I believe.
     
  4. budgiesmuggler

    budgiesmuggler Well-Known Member

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    Just means the sleeve and the shoulder hole either haven't been stitched properly, or the arm hole and sleeve arn't the same shape. Not a big deal.

    In London my alterations tailor unstitched the sleeves on my coat to adjust sleeve length (rather than take sleeve up from the. Bottom) stitched back on in one day and charged me £20. Such a rip off here.
     
  5. tobiasj

    tobiasj Senior member

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    Y u no post pics?
     
  6. lennier

    lennier Senior member

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    Deleted
     
    Last edited: Jan 31, 2012
  7. jobro

    jobro Senior member

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    See the rest of the forum. Been discussed in detail a million times.
     
  8. Prince of Paisley

    Prince of Paisley Senior member

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    ^ User jefferyd has an informative thread on here about "shoulder expression".
     
  9. tobiasj

    tobiasj Senior member

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    Oh sorry I thought it was your jacket jobro. My bad.
     
  10. eightace

    eightace Senior member

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    Sydneysiders,

    There's a shop in Pitt St called Enrico Santi Shoes, between Liverpool and Goulburn, which has 40% off Loakes at the moment. I checked them out and most are around $250-270 (with the discount). A good deal, if you like Loakes.

    Cheers,

    Eightace
     
  11. Naka

    Naka Senior member

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    Pictures as requested.

    [​IMG]

    The toes look a little distorted in this picture, which I think is due to the shoe trees. I'm using Woodlore epics, but I think I'll have to find a pair that fit better.

    [​IMG]

    Double sole, Topy'd(gasp!)

    [​IMG]

    Closeup on the stitching. Shoes are hand welted.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    Closeup on the closed channel.

    This was my first MTM shoe, with my only other SF approved footwear being a pair of RMW's. MTM is definitely a learning experience, and there are a lot of things I will do differently for my next order.
    I'm very happy with the finishing and quality for the price I paid, and the fit is 90% perfect. If anyone has any questions, feel free to ask.
     
  12. "6"

    "6" Senior member

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    Thanks for the info fxh and lennier.

    Sounds like they are bespoke tailors from what lennier is describing. The 'part-way' done suit is probably the basted fitting. It is standard operating procedure for tailors. In that case, it makes sense that it would cost more than PJohnson who modify a standard pattern, offshore.

    I might go to them when my piggy bank fills up. Hopefully they will work with customer supplied cloth as I have an awesome length of suiting which I want to get made up.
     
  13. Plestor

    Plestor Senior member

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    As lovely as the first time I saw them.

    I don't think you'll have much luck on better fitting trees, short of getting lasted ones.

    Do you know if its a true angled closed channel or one of the more vertical ones that you tend to find on rtw?

    Also what would you do differently?
     
    Last edited: Jan 31, 2012
  14. lennier

    lennier Senior member

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    No worries, but take what I said about the process with a grain of salt. They *aren't* full bespoke with a basted fitting, I'm pretty certain (certainly not at their starting prices anyway) and my recollection of them being somewhere between normal offshore MTM and bespoke may have been based on a lack of knowledge at the time and me assuming that a 'fitting' was more than just the post-make check for alterations as done by PJohnson and most other MTM operations. I found Nick very approachable to talk to though, so I'd just drop in and have a chat if you were interested in how they do what they do.
     
  15. fxh

    fxh Senior member

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    They certainly were proper old school bespoke years ago when I used them.
    I doubt it would make sense for them to send offshore if they can do in house. But I could be wrong.

    Best way is to ask them - they were always friendly in the past.
     
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