Australian Members

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by earthdragon, Nov 18, 2008.

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  1. ColdEyedPugilist

    ColdEyedPugilist Senior member

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    Couldn't have said it better myself.

    Through SF, I was introduced to artisans such as Charle Nahkle, Sam Hober and Patrick Johnson. If not for SF, I might not know of the Armoury or Vanda Fine Clothing. As a clearinghouse for information related to style, SF is quite unmatched.

    What I dislike is said smart-arse posters who almost slavishly adhere to SF groupthink.

    Back in 07, there were regular posts by Sator, Manton, Iammatt, Vox, Will and others. They made for enjoyable, informative reading. These days, I tend to avoid WAYWN altogether.

    Such is life.
     
  2. lennier

    lennier Senior member

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    Think you've hit the nail pretty squarely on the head here Jason. All the "short cuffed suit pants with sockless brogues is SF approved but having a cuff button undone is not" type of rubbish is a whole world away from the extremely valuable collective knowledge of forum members about the quality or otherwise of particular 'SF approved' products or services. Note that I am not condemning nor endorsing either of the above stylistic choices :)
     
  3. Geoffrey Firmin

    Geoffrey Firmin Senior member

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    Your right about this more so when one has to order from OS due to the scarcity of decent RTW apparel available here. It took five days by Fed Ex to deliver from BB to ACT which is good, mind you it costs enough but with the boxing day sale prices still a bargain.

    As for SF approved styles, well i subscribe to the fact that taste and style are elements of men's dress and deportment which require development over time, and once you find what works for you, you tend to stick with it. ( that is if it stays in fashion; sigh)
     
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2012
  4. Henry Carter

    Henry Carter Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Wouldn't it be good if this whole forum was as rational as this one thread.
     
  5. __PG__

    __PG__ Senior member

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    I think SF approved can be summed as 'Don't buy crap'. Something either has intrinsic value or quality, or it doesn't.

    That's what I've taken away from SF. People's personal choices and opinions regarding style and flair are just opinions and open to interpretation. But objectively, something is either well constructed or it isn't. And no amount of advertising or an artificially-inflated pricetag to create artificial scarcity and perceptions of consumer exclusivity can change that.
     
  6. fxh

    fxh Senior member

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    Tinkering with a spy's tailoring - January 19, 2012
    http://www.theage.com.au/world/tinkerin … 1q6ev.html

    The devil is in the detail -and the suit - when designing costumes for spies. By Philippa Hawker.

    MEN in suits. That's what the brief was, for costume designer Jacqueline Durran when she signed on to Tinker Tailor Soldier Spy, the film adaptation of John le Carre's celebrated novel of espionage and betrayal. Suits are a far cry from the period flourishes of Pride and Prejudice, for which she was nominated for a BAFTA and an Oscar, and there's no chance to design anything like the emerald green dress that Keira Knightley wore in Atonement, another of Durran's projects.

    Yet it was the constraint, she says, that made it interesting - because of the narrow spectrum, the differentiating detail became vital.
    Durran came to her career indirectly. She studied philosophy at university before realising, in her mid-twenties, that she wanted to be a costume designer for film. She knew no one who worked in the area but eventually got a start assisting costume designer Lindy Hemming, who worked for English director Mike Leigh. And a few years later, when Hemming couldn't do Leigh's 2002 film All Or Nothing, she recommended Durran for the job.

    You could be forgiven for thinking that Leigh, with his stark, often downbeat and dour embrace of realism, would not spend much time thinking about costumes. But you would be wrong. Leigh, says Durran, is "very interested in the idea that the way someone looks reveals the character". What's more, Leigh's painstaking, often improvisatory methods of preparation enhance this further.

    "Because the actors work on their characters for a long time, and it's such a precise portrayal, the costumes can be extremely precise as well."

    She has had the experience, she notes, of being an assistant on films in which the directors are not particularly interested in what their characters are wearing, and it's a miserable task.

    The costume designer's job, as far as she is concerned, is completely focused on giving the director what he or she wants. And if they don't really care, there is almost nowhere for you to go.

    The director of Tinker Tailor Soldier Spy, Swedish filmmaker Tomas Alfredson (Let The Right One In) is an example of someone who cares, she hastens to add.

    For the central character of George Smiley, a former agent who comes out of retirement to hunt down a highly placed mole inside British intelligence, Alfredson gave her a specific brief.

    He handed her some photographs of author (and sometime spy) Graham Greene "that he felt were very Smiley. That was how he imagined him. And it mainly had to do with his reversible mac.'' She went to the traditional firm Aquascutum, who remade one of their archive styles for the production.
    Smiley is played by Gary Oldman in a performance of wonderfully recessive intensity and restraint. Oldman worked with Leigh, very early in his career, in Meantime (1985), and Durran says it's quite likely that this influenced Oldman's approach to what he wears as an actor.

    "Gary is interested from the character point of view in the thing being right, not in style for style's sake." It was Oldman who tracked down an accessory they spent a long time searching for - a key element of his character's self-presentation - his spectacles.

    The figures of Tinker Tailor Soldier Spy are almost all men of a certain class and age. The film is set in the 1970s, but the principal characters were not slaves to fashion: they were the sort of people, Durran says, who wore the same suits for many years. To create their wardrobe, she went to a Savile Row tailor who made costumes based on original sample suits from the 1950s.

    Her task was about limitations, she says. "You're not making bold statements or great dresses or anything eye-catching." But small things are being conveyed, all the same. That Toby Esterhase (David Dencik) wears a bow tie with his suits, she says, tells you he is not English. And that Bill Haydon (Colin Firth) wears red socks is an equally clear signifier. "It's an upper-middle-class English thing, the red or yellow sock."

    But one of her greatest challenges was getting bespoke suits made, with duplicates, by Savile Row tailors working not to their own timetables, but to the imperatives of the film industry. In fact, she says, "it was a nightmare trying to get them to do in three weeks what they will take two months to do''.
     
  7. fxh

    fxh Senior member

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  8. fxh

    fxh Senior member

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  9. fxh

    fxh Senior member

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  10. Alexander Scriabin

    Alexander Scriabin Well-Known Member

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    I don't think that this has already been posted, but American Tailors in Melbourne has a bunch of new Carmina models at $525 and their remaining stock of G&Gs are down to something like $795.

    I also think the C&J Handgrades are something like $595 now too.

    Worth popping in.
     
  11. tone76

    tone76 Senior member

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    In Australian Members, there is often at least a small amount of tongue hitting a small amount of cheek. ;)

    Meanwhile on a different tangent, FedEx suck balls. I bought myself some jumpers from a most SF Approved[​IMG] retailer, Brooks Brothers. Unfortunately, they will only ship OS via FedEx. Despite my parcel landing in Adelaide (very early) on Tuesday morning, FedEx's Adelaide depot decided to sit on my parcel for two days for no apparent reason. :fu:

    On the plus side, I am now (almost) fully equipped for winter.
     
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2012
  12. fxh

    fxh Senior member

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    tone - I once had Fed Ex leave a card that meant unless I could guarantee an exact time to be home I had to travel across Melbourne at inconvenient hours and a round trip of 1.5 hours.

    I'll bet BB didn't call them "jumpers"
     
  13. MickyD

    MickyD Senior member

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    That's a nice price for the handgrades - I paid 595euro for a pair in Paris last year :embar:
     
  14. bhall41

    bhall41 Senior member

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    Relieved to hear that!

    I am all in favour of novice posters here being provided with advice from more experienced members - especially on this sub-forum, which commendably is far less snipy than many others.

    My point is that it what may or may not be SF "approved' is really so much twaddle. Group think is rife on SF e.g. double monks, trouser cuffs, OCBD with roll, jackets with soft shoulders, pocket squares etc etc. These are by and large ephemeral trends and not so different to trends that pervade the world of fashion, which SF purports (affects ?) to disdain.

    Disclaimer: Like many others on this sub-forum I have on numerous occasions in the past purchased from SF sponsors and other popular SF vendors, and will no doubt do so in the future. In some of my previous posts I have endorsed a few of these vendors.
     
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2012
  15. The Ernesto

    The Ernesto Senior member

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    Got a pair of Carmina's in the front window I noticed the other day. Black, double monk, split toe.
     
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