Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by earthdragon, Nov 18, 2008.
With free postage. Shirts come to ~$34 each.
New Azzaro promotion today. Newly arrived Enrico Coveri for $300.
And Antichi Telai for $450.
Pretty amazing stuff.
Aaannnd a double post.
I just got an email from Lewis Romano detailing the fabrics they have available. The meaty bits :
All fabrics are from the Canclini mill
Italian and Egyptian cotton
1000 fabric samples to choose from
I think I'll pass for now as I still can't quite justify that much money on shirts even if my weight is almost at my goal.
Did anyone sign up to go try some out?
Curse Azzaro. They are deliberately trying to destroying my 'no purchases until after Christmas' campaign.
Nice purchase CEP.
I have gone mad for Glen plaid suits and ties over the past year.
Many houses doing amazing suits in GP including Armani, Burberry, Ralph Lauren and Kiton to name a few.
Apologies if this has been asked before but can anyone recommend a good tailor to get a pair of jeans tapered in Melbourne?
This really depends on how much of a stickler you are for details. How much do you need to have tapered? Are your jeans already washed or are they dry (raw) denim without any noticeable loss of indigo? These factors will determine the end result. The easiest method is to have the out seam tapered, in which case you will ruin any selvedge line on the inside of the denim when/if you cuff them, and in Melbourne there is no where yet (to the best of my knowledge) that has a vintage Union Special sewing machine in order to chain stitch the hems. Tapering from the inseam is trickier, and can be botched easily. You'll lose felled seams when the jeans are sewn back up, likely compromising the strength of the inside seam as well.
The above may not have made any sense or a lot of sense. In any case, get in touch with Mikhail Zenon (mikhailzenon.com). He's based in Sydney and will taper jeans for you so damn well, that it'll look like they were never altered. Your other option is to send them to the USA. Denim Doctors in LA on Melrose Avenue (or Third Avenue) - can't quite remember which one, are among the best in the world and will do selvedge denim alterations amazingly.
If you don't mind losing little details/want to compromise on cost or have added convenience, go to any tailor you feel is competent. If you want to keep them as true to the original, then it'll take a bit more time and money.
The jeans on my blog are usually altered - APCs and Nudie are two brands I know a bit about. PM me if you have questions.
Be checking it out on the other side of my Japan trip.
I want to ask a question about Saphir polishes - are they all they are cracked up to be? I have a buch of different polishes (warproo, angelus) which I have bought locally and my shoes look okay I guess - is there some magical next-level shine I am missing out on?
While I am on the topic - I have three pairs in cordovan - do they need some different treatment? I haven't given them any so far.
I know I could ask this on the other threads - but I am more interested in the Aussie perspective as we can't just walk into a shop and buy this stuff. So, having gone to some trouble to obtain it, has it been worth it?
Selvaggio, Saphir polish is good, very good, but it's not all it's cracked up to be. It appears in menswear on the Internet that when certain figures endorse a brand, many people at their desks get boners about how well it will serve them, too. Next-level shine is dependent on good product (i.e. polish), good leather that has been lasted for a long time so the pores of the leather really open up, and good technique. It's not that difficult, it really is about putting in time and effort. With calfskin, wear the shoes and really give them a good beating. Then, get rid of dirt and debris, condition and then build up tiny little layers of polish as per the traditional spit-shine method. In a short amount of time, the shoes start to gleam. In my experience, "better" shoes achieve better shine. Ralph Lauren's' US made Allen Edmonds don't shine as well as Loake, which don't shine as well as C&J. Again, just my opinion - someone else may have other experiences.
As for cordovan, if it is genuine shell cordovan leather from Horween tannery in Chicago, not just the "colour" cordovan which people seem to confuse; then, what you need is a good mink-oil based conditioner. This is where Saphir Renovateur is excellent. Put some on your fingertips and massage it into the leather, then leave it to dry. Then, take a horsehair brush and buff until your arm feels sore and the shoe is warm from friction. Then buff for about 10 more minutes. Cordovan shoes don't need much polish, it'll just cake up on the surface, eventually causing the shoe to dry out and crack. If you want to really give cordovan the best care, get a deer bone online and use it on your shoes. It gets rid of scuffs on cordovan for good. As for polish, I use Alden wax polish.
Some of my cordovan: http://thediscoursecircus.tumblr.com/post/13446747746/alden-for-jcrew
Thanks Brownman - that's exactly the kind of info I was after.
Yes - they are shell. Alden cigar and 2x vintage Florsheim Royal Imperial. My Alden's in particular are scuffed around the heels (from banging against my desk chair, I think) - so I will hunt down a deer bone. How exactly does it work? (I gather more is required than just pointing it?) Do you just rub it on the shoes? It sounds like vodoo!
The Hanger Project sells deer bones. You basically just rub it over the shoe. Um, yeah, it's pretty much that simple. It's something about the deer bone's oils helping condition the cordovan, while the rubbing motion brings out the oils of the shell cordovan. In any case, it works. Basically, with cordovan, use it and abuse it and every once in a long while give it a conditioning and remember to brush it vigorously and it'll look fantastic for years and years. Just don't put polish on it. If you think it's not enough, it's probably too much.
P.S. 3 pairs! Nice. I only have two after recently selling a pair. I think I'm going to get Alden tassel loafers in Color 8 or Ravello very soon.
Thanks - It's great stuff. My first pair I bought at a vintage clothes stall at the markets for $5. I've been a bit obsessed since then.
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