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Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by earthdragon, Nov 18, 2008.

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  1. fxh

    fxh Senior member

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    My father was a traveling farm labourer, a version of a swaggie, left school at 12 years old, and when he was young had MTM suits from Fletcher Jones. FJs used to have blokes who traveled around to farms and measured and fitted people.

    Its not overly romantic to realise that even very ordinary people at the near bottom of the social ladder had basically bespoke clothes - if they cared.

    I still have a vest from a 3 piece double breasted navy blue chalk stripe he had made by FJs in 1949 - with his name and date on the label.

    There is nothing elitist and 1% about a well made suit.
     
    Last edited: Nov 4, 2011


  2. aKula

    aKula Senior member

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    "I dislike men whose socks are so short that when they cross their legs they expose flesh. I dislike men who do not wear white shirts at night." Alexis von Rosenberg, 3rd Baron de Redé
     


  3. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

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    wouldn't have liked Oz methinks
     


  4. Journeyman

    Journeyman Senior member

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    +1. DeerStyle offers MTM shirts from two sources at present, China and the US.

    The Chinese-made shirts are nice - very lightly fused, springy collars and cuffs and the option of MoP buttons, and they are priced at $100.

    The US-made shirts (by Individualised Shirts) are really good. They are very flexible and accommodating with requests to do different things, such as changing the shape of cuffs or raising a collar, and they have a wide variety of fabrics. Prices start at $150 and increase with the class of the fabric. I have a few already and am eagerly awaiting the arrival of another two.

    In my opinion, it's better to spend a bit more on a shirt if it means that you are actually being measured up by someone who knows what they are doing. That way, they can identify whether you have any quirks that should be taken into account in the measurements, such as a dropped shoulder and so on. Therefore, I think that the chance of getting a well-fitting shirt from the beginning are much higher when you are being measured by someone who knows what they are doing as it is much less likely that you will end up going through several "test" shirts first, trying to get a good fit. Thus, it's quite likely that going through an online tailor could actually be a false economy (depending on pricing, of course).

    DeerStyle also carries G. Inglese shirts, which are handmade in Italy. I think that they're superior to Borrelli, Finamore, Barba etc in construction but, of course, they are quite expensive. Well worth having a look at, though, just to see what a really lovely, handmade shirt looks like.
     


  5. Geoffrey Firmin

    Geoffrey Firmin Senior member

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    My old man was a stockman drover prior to the WW2. Have a few photos of him in suits taken by street photographers in Sydney, when he would come to town. Also he had a grey worsted box cut wool suit that he had tailored at DJ's in 1953 to get married in. Had it refitted for me after he died some twenty years ago and then when I horizontially grew beyond it I kept it for my son. Then last year the moths got to and had a fest, merde.

    Mind you I still have a travel rug he bought when he worked on Kiewa Hydro scheme in 1947, label states its 100% Pure Wool Moth Prof its over 60 years old and not a nibble from moths in all those years .

    I think that the problem is now days consumer society depends on rapid turn over and sadly the objects we use be clothing or appliances have a built in life span. There is a book by Sherry Turkle; Evocative Objects Things We Think With which examines our relations with objects, well worth reading.
     


  6. kickstart

    kickstart Senior member

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    Just to add to Journeyman's comments on MTM Shirts, I spoke to a Herringbone rep regarding their current MTO Shirt deal (Buy two get a third free) who informed me they have Thomas Mason cloth starting at $199 (four price points, going upward).

    2 x $200 = 400

    For 3 shirts = $133 a shirt.

    Could be a option for you.

    My only issue was that she said everyone in store now was "trained" for MTO shirts....which I am not comfortable with. I would prefer a well regarded tailor...not floor staff (no offence to guys in here who work in menswear, I am sure YOU are more than capable, however a lot of retail staff are not as passionate).
     


  7. California Dreamer

    California Dreamer Senior member

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    Guys, to raise money for Movember donations, I am having a truly massive sale of the clothes that are now too big for me, plus some nice op shop finds. The first of many threads is here, full of suits and jackets with all those brands we love. Shipping is at cost for Aussie members; Melbourne members are welcome to pick up. I appreciate your support.
     
    Last edited: Nov 5, 2011


  8. Naka

    Naka Senior member

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    Just wow. If I was your size I would have purchased many of these. Why can't you be an anorexic 36R like me?
     


  9. Plestor

    Plestor Senior member

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    The Chinese will do CMT, so you can get quite cheap stuff made up in acorn fabrics (It may be cheaper to buy from HST over direct to reduce shipping). Napkin math suggest it should be in the $150 ball-park


    Fully agree, this btw is why the guys from Patrick Johnson do it so well. Casual trousers are still a problem tho as the underlying CMT ends up a touch expensive, as are *cheap shirts*.


    I'd point out these are made semi mtm (off an incomplete set of measurements which is larger than RTW).
     
    Last edited: Nov 5, 2011


  10. CHECKstar

    CHECKstar Senior member

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    Gents, for those who know some of the haunts out in Melbourne's east (fxh, I am looking at you!), 'Louis Economy Shop' in Box Hill have two racks of Hardy Amies Italian made silk ties for $16.95 a pop. I would imagine that it is a one off purchase on their behalf, and they are just trying to clear the stock. Admittedly, many of the patterns and designs probably won't appeal to our 'refined' tastes, and we are not talking about seven-fold craftsmanship but I did manage to pick out two that I was happy to add to my collection.
     
    Last edited: Nov 5, 2011


  11. jzbar

    jzbar Active Member

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    Does anyone have any good recommendations for dandruff shampoos or remedies? I have been using apple cider vinegar, but to no avail. I've also pretty much exhausted the shampoos commonly available in the supermarkets. I read a post on here that suggested tea tree oil, but I'm allergic to that, as I discovered after my girlfriend applied it to a cut on my shoulder and my whole back blew up in a rash!

    So, does anyone have any tried and tested methods for dealing with the dreaded white stuff?
     


  12. jobro

    jobro Senior member

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    This thread is supposed to be about men's clothing in Australia.

    Try the health and body sub-forum. Yes, a whole sub-forum dedicated to health and the human body.

    Health & Body
    Discuss health, diet, exercise, and personal grooming
     


  13. jaypee

    jaypee Senior member

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    Give him a break Jobro.. Its probably hard to find international products in Aus, so let the man ask his question
     


  14. jzbar

    jzbar Active Member

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    Indeed. I wanted a local perspective as most recommendations are specific to North America. I also recall not long ago this thread was principally concerned with a moral debate about the Occupy Melbourne movement, so I'm not the first to make a slight departure from clothing.
     


  15. jzbar

    jzbar Active Member

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    Actually, I just reviewed the posts and it seems that Jobro was also the one to try and draw the thread back to clothing, so you know, at least you're consistent :)
     
    Last edited: Nov 6, 2011


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