Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by earthdragon, Nov 18, 2008.
Commenting on the size issue in the above post: a good alterer can make a larger size fit nicely. I actually prefer a looser fit or larger size taken in. If it is already slim and your size, not much can be done with it.
When I tried the jacket on, it fitted really nicely on and around my shoulders. But I didn't like the way the jacket hung straight down around my lower back area. I generally try to find clothes that tuck into my lower back, giving the sliming look. But as you said a good alterer should be able to sort this out for me.
Go for gold.
I agree I thought the lady in Fellini was very helpful and not pushy.
Fitting on shoulder and nice and snug around the neck are the most important. Almost everything else can be altered. At a cost.
As others have said better to get a slightly bigger fitting and take it in rather than a too tight coat. In any case most stores are generally happy to order in a smaller size for you top try on, if you are not just tyre kicking.
I think what you want as "tucking into lower back" would be called here as waist suppression or in ordinary language taking in the waist a bit to give it shape or flare. This a common alteration and not really expensive. You need to be careful about trying for a too fitted flare.
As far as loosing weight - I saw one "study" where almost ALL brides and bridesmaids purchase dresses too small in the "sure" knowledge they would lose weight before the wedding. Almost all end up having to have expensive dresses let out at the last minute in a rush or ended up wearing something that looked as if they squeezed into it.
Theres no reason to assume that men would be much different.
Always better to get your suit to fit you now and look great. If you lose so much weight (and its not weight you are talking about but losing girth/ width) then a suit is easily taken in a week before wedding.
I am not up with prices for the suits you mention but others here have experience with Canali and Cantarelli (California Dreamer, _PG_ and appolyon come to mind) and I'm sure they will be happy to advise further.
Back to prices - in my view going local especially as you are overseas in Tassy, is worth possibly $400 or more for the ability to return to shop, try on and the benefit of using their recommended tailor in person, even possibly at a discount than if you just walked in.
As regard black for the wedding. I'm not automatically against black suits, if done well, as many others are, but I don't think they are really appropriate for a wedding. I think for a wedding a nice mid grey is ideal. But if you are set on a dark suit then a very dark Navy blue will look better at a wedding and also be more versatile than a black. A dark blue is good because in low light or in the dark a blue will look black to an extent but in sunlight it will catch the light and look more blue.
Depending - the grey pinstripe on sale might be a good option.
Others might chime in.
FXH I have a wedding coming up in a few weeks. Do you mind linking to a picture of said 'nice mid grey' suit that you feel appropriate for weddings?
I was originally thinking a navy self stripe - but would rather wear mid grey as I feel the self stripe is a little corporate.
Matt, as fxh has said, I've worn both Canali and Cantarelli suits.
The Canali suits tend to be a generous cut, and are good for larger men. The Cantarellis are a bit slimmer cut, but I think a bit more stylish.
If you are coming to Melbourne, definitely go to Azzaro. They will have lots of Canali and Cantarelli at wholesale prices, as well as other really nice brands such as Antichi Telai. If you time it right, you ought to be able to find quite a few under $1000. Lots of guys go there to get kitted out for tqheir weddings - the full outfit, not just the suit. Give yourself plenty of time, there is a lot there.
$895 for a Canali suit is a really good price, BTW.
Not sure why your wedding plans require you to wear black. If you are looking for a formal suit, because that's a whole other story. I personally think it's a better investment for you to buy a great suit for your wedding that you will also get a lot of use out of later. Black is not so good in a business setting, whereas grey is really versatile.
I hope you find something good, and thta you have a memorable wedding.
Thanks again to everyone that has responded. When my fiance and I first started talking colour schemes for the wedding, we orginally wanted myself and the grooms men wearing grey suits. So I might have to chat to her and see if she wants to go down that path.
I'm a tradesman, so I won't really need the suit for work purposes. But it would be nice to have a versatile suit so I could wear out to the races etc. As for the weight, the store lady laughed when I told her that I planned to shed a few extra kg's haha. I'm 86kg's now and 5'11, working my way back to the 80kg's I was at the start of the year (got a bit slack over winter!) I guess weight wise my shoulders won't change too much so I could possibly buy one very soon (boxing day sales maybe)
I never thought it would be so hard buying a suit! So many options and styles to go for! I did like the cantarelli quite a lot, and might have to go back in soon to have another look and try some more on. Would it be wise going for the same branded shirt as well? Or are there cheaper options available that would do the job? Although the shirts on offer did look really nice!
I've bought seven suits (2x Canali, 2x Cantarelli, 1x Antichi Telai, 1x Versace Collection, 1x Pasini), one sports jacket (Cantarelli tailor), four shirts (2x Antichi Telai, 1x Canali, 1x Mastai Ferretti) and five ties from Azzaro. My friends have also bought ten suits from there as well.
I'm a size Euro 52, however I think blahman has looked through their size 46 to 48 stock a lot and he may have a better idea of what they have available. This of course changes from week-to-week.
Most of the suits they stock are 'fitted' compared to a standard conservative Australian/English cut. I've got no idea what your body shape is like. Canali make a few different blocks or models, some are more fitted than others however they are fairly 'classic'. Azzaro have some new Cantarelli models, including a new twobutton model that is very slim fitting which is probably the most modern block of their fully-canvassed suits. It resembles the Zegna Milano block.
If you can't find what you want in your Hobart store and you do come to Melbourne, I forgot to add Bonaparte's Boutique on Lygon St to the mix. They are worth a visit for a good range of classic menswear.
I wish! I suspect the result will be far closer to the louche French coach's. Some men just aren't hairy (we use our hormones elsewhere).
Thanks for your advice _PG_. It sounds like you have a nice collection! The jackets I tried on today I think they were more down the 'classic' line as they had hardly any waist suppression. I probably should have let the sales women know exactly what I was looking for insted of just having a quick browse...
Out of the shirts you listed _PG_ do you have a favourite that fits you better? I might wait until boxing day until I go have a look again. As for the colour choices, it looks like i'm going to have to stick with a black suit! My fiance has picked out grey coloured dresses for the brides maids and doesn't want everything to be too grey lol. And she was not a fan of navy blue either...
Thanks again for your help everyone!
A white shirt is a lot more appropriate than a black shirt for a wedding.
Sorry I ment staying with a black suit, not a black shirt. I probably should have written my response a bit clearer.
HAHA, in any case this will be what I do this year. I remember back in 2007 as a 20 year old I did the full handlebar moustache. I also raised about $1000 on my own so the horrid appearance was well worth it.
Is anyone here affected (or about to be) affected by the QANTAS shutdown? My wife is stranded in Melbourne. I'm wondering whether or not to send her to Azzaro tomorrow if she doesn't get home today as planned ..
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