Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by earthdragon, Nov 18, 2008.
You can only get The Rake in Melbourne via a subscription.
Yes, disappointing about The Rake only being available by subscription. It'd be nice at times to have a flick through in Mag Nation while girlfriend shops on Greville Street..
5iver, I second everything that ColdEyedPugilist said. The C&J Belgrave is a handgrade on the 337 last - it has a certain Italian sensibility, in my opinion, while remaining true to its Northampton origin.
Allen Edmonds shoes, though nice, are by no means sleek and will likely look "old man-ish" to you. That said, the Ralph Lauren 'Made in America' shoes we receive here are often manufactured by Allen Edmonds and if it is something you like, then do try to pick some up on sale - they can be had cheaply, $200 - $250.
Spend $1500 of your $5000 on some return flights to the US and buy all your clothes there. Even with that $3500 you'll still get more (and better) clothes than you would with your $5K in Australia.
For those of us in Melbourne, I just wanted to give a particular watch repairer a plug.
For simple repairs, bracelet adjustment, battery replacement, pressure testing etc I would unreservedly recommend Steven Domenis at Momentum, in the Suncorp Building (shop 36, 447 Collins St, cnr William St).
Steven took over the business from a watch repairer who retired a couple of years ago, who had been at the same shop for 50 years or something! He is Swiss trained (worked at the Omega service centre) and passionate and knowledgeable about watches, expecially mechanical watches. His prices are very reasonable. Steven also happens to be a nice guy, who is keen to keep his customers happy.
At the moment, for bigger jobs, I am still using Michael Presser at Precision Timing, but that might change over time (pun not intended!).
blahman and COP thank you SO MUCH for your contributions, they have been really helpful and informative. I will definitely check out the Crockets and look to get at least 1 pair from them... Thursday is late night shopping so should be the day that I go out and buy my shoes.
I am now seriously considering P Johnson for my suit and will arrange a fitting. Even though I am CBD-based, I have been convinced to go to P Johnson. Should I call to arrange one beforehand and try to arrange on the days that Ethan is working, or should I show up one day in the store and tell them I would like a fitted suit? And for you guys who have already gone through the process of buying a suit from them, are there certain extras that are a must (like button-stitched holes etc?). Of course, I am flexible with my pricing and want my suit to last long-term so am happy to spend on it.
Now as for choice of material... I have 1 cashmere suit (black), and 2 cotton suits. Should I be going for a wool suit, since it seems it is the most durable material, or would I suffer when it comes to summer/humidity madness in Sydney?
I have been reading these forums a lot before I registered, and I am well aware how highly regarded Charles Nakhle is.. The only problem is I do not have a car and have no sense of direction, so venturing to the west is scary for me as I have never done it before.
And lastly, I am new to the working environment and new to 'fashion' per se, and would just like to say that you guys are so knowledgeable... just reading threads on here have provided me with invaluable tips on fashion... I have so much to learn, but am happy with the friendliness in this online community, so will be sticking around, with lots more questions to annoy you all!
Lastly, any good websites, suggestions on shirt/tie matching. If I am to get shirts from P Johnson, and ideally I want solid colours, what are must have colours that go with black, navy blue and/or grey suits? I already have 2 whites and 1 light blue, what should I be aiming for next? MY dad suggested beige, pink and grey shirts but I am hesitant. He also suggested that I absolutely must have at least 1 pair of shoes that are tabac coloured and cognac coloured, as they match well with black suits. Any thoughts? I just told him that I have been wearing black shoes and black tie with my black suit the past couple months that I have been working, and he was horrified, asking me if I worked at a morgue!
anybody here have any experience with Zambezi for suits?
I know you've already got a black suit, but that's a colour that most of us avoid for a work suit. I've got some Charles Nakhale shirts and they are absolutely lovely. They cost around $220 each, and are all made in his workshop at Parramatta. If you're working in law (which it sounds like you are), I'd limit my shirts to blue and white, and stripes of blue and white! Get yourself a pink one for some colour. Once you start working you'll get to know what other colours you can get away with. I'd also recommend you go to P Johnson, you'll get a much better suit there than from any MTM brand around town. You'll also be the best dressed grad (and probably better dressed than most of the partners!).
5iver : Your dad sounds like he knows what he's on about. Stick with him.
As a humorous aside, I took a mate of mine shirt shopping at Azzaro last week. He's started work at a hedge fund. He bought five blue shirts. Solid light blue, solid medium blue, thin light-blue stripes, thick light-blue stripes and a light blue with a cross weave/texture.
From what I've heard about P.Johnson, Patrick or others there will be able to make some suggestions about shirt colours and about colour matching with ties.
To my mind, if you get a few classic silk print ties and perhaps a few grenadine ties in solid colours and you'll be set.
If you want some ideas for "classic" tie patterns, you could browse through some of the "soporific tie pr0n" thread - it's not as bad as it sounds, honestly!
To my mind, blue is the most flexible shirting colour, and most of the shirts in my wardrobe incorporate blue into the pattern. You can have a plain, light blue poplin, a light blue oxford cloth, a light blue, small gingham check, a royal blue small gingham check, a blue and white bengal stripe, a blue and white pencil stripe, a blue and white graph check, a... well, I'm sure that you get the picture! Whilst a nice white shirt is a wardrobe staple, I find myself wearing blue a lot more as it is a warmer colour and it goes with so many suit and tie options. Pink is also nice, and a warm colour, too. I've got a few shirts that are either plain pink poplin or pink and blue check etc. Grey doesn't float my boat but it could look good on you, depending on skin colouring.
If you want some ideas for combining shirts and ties, you could have a look at sites such as the following so as to get some ideas on combining patterns and colours:
P.Johnson's tumblr blog
Charles Tyrwhitt website, showing shirt and tie combinations
With regard to shoes, I respectfully disagree with your dad!
I think that tan/chestnut shoes and cognac coloured shoes are great, and I have several pairs of each in different styles, but I don't wear them with black suits.
I think that black shoes go best with black suits, but then my mother always taught me that one never wears brown with black! However, perhaps that's outdated thinking now. Anyway, as a personal opinion, I think that brown and cognac shoes look fantastic with grey/charcoal suits and navy suits.
Not sure I'd wear anything other than black shoes with a black suit. Grey or blue suits with the tabac or cognac? Sure, so long as your workplace isn't an exclusively black shoe office. Bear in mind that black is always appropriate in the workplace whereas brown or variants won't always be so I'd get a couple of pairs of black before venturing into brown etc. I'd also avoid white shirts with a black suit. With shirts and tie matching, it's slightly contingent on your colouring. A selection of blue shirts will be the most flexible and should be fine, regardless so a good place to start. But I avoid red or yellow ties or shirt patterns - just don't suit me for some reason - whereas I'm fine with anything pink or lavender. Pretty much anything will go with a blue shirt so it's a question of sorting something that suits you. There's a mania on SF for solid coloured ties but with a solid suit and shirt you can get away with being a bit more adventurous with your tie too (though avoid anything that's too shiny - it'll look cheap). The flipside of this is that solid ties will go with pretty much any of your blue or white-based shirts so will be more flexible. If you know your collar size, you can get good deals on shirts and ties from the British makers like TM Lewin or Charles Tyrwhitt (remember to order the slim or tailored fit ones). In terms of weight, you'll not get anything that'll do you the full year and neither is there anything that'll stop you sweating your chuff off in the Sydney summer (you'd be hot in shorts and t shirt so the addition of shirt with collar done up and a jacket is going to make you hot.). If you've got a couple of cotton ones for summer already, personally I'd get something in a midweight wool that'll do you for spring/autumn and, with the addition of overcoat or trench coat, cold winter days too. I'm sure the folks at PJ can advise on specifics. But you have to be careful with the whole colour thing too: I was working in British politics when the Labour MPs all 'had their colours done' by a fellow MP (Babs Follett, wife of novelist Ken Follet, fwiw). It was the height of New Labour's media obsession and she offered to make them all look TV-friendly. She drapped swatches of different coloured cloth around them to see whether they were a summer, a winter, spring or autumn type Anyone with a hint of red/russet/auburn in their colouring was deemed an autumn and told to wear appropriate colours and all of a sudden they all started wearing green suits, yellow shirts and orange ties. It was fecking hideous. All these previously normally-dressed people dressed up like leprechauns with court appearances. Ugly stuff.
Hey blue is a great colour Especially if you are a lazy dresser like me. I have 10 white shirts, and 5 blues in my collection of 20 odd shirts. I crawl out of bed in the morning still half asleep and slap on whatever shirt and random tie from my tie box and still look half respectable.
I have just started working again after taking a solid 18 month break. I have been looking at getting some shirts made by http://www.moderntailor.com/ have you seen the selection? I am not a lazy dresser but I am a lazy shopper. How are you supposed to choose from 2000 different fabric options!
Try these two links. The first is a blog by member Phat Guido. Great photography and examples of 'shirt/tie matching'. Second link is the What Are You Wearing Today thread, it's got many useful posts/pictures sometimes people don't always do things 'right' but the comments in the thread will usually send you in the right direction. This site is about developing your own style and generally not about following fashion trends.
5iver, don't worry about matching if you are conservative shirts and ties you can pretty much just pick at random. Pocket squares are there to a contrast for me so I don't bother there either.
Try switching ties and shirts in your mind Phat Guido's blog and see what I meant about how useful or otherwise matching is.
Separate names with a comma.