Australian Members

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by earthdragon, Nov 18, 2008.

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  1. Journeyman

    Journeyman Senior member

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    It's really hard for me to say, as everyone has different feet.
    As an example, on the C&J 337 shoes that I have (Audley etc), the "v" in the laces has closed up a bit with wear, as the leather has softened and stretched.
    With the AEs that I tried on, however, the gap was so extreme and the shoes so uncomfortable that I cannot imagine that ever happening.
    AE models like the Park Ave and the Fifth Ave are uncomfortably "flat" and so I've learned that I just can't wear them.



    Thanks for the comments, fxh.

    I have, in the past, tried some US EE and English G width shoes because, as fxh notes, the extra width can help to compensate for the lack of height in the instep. It's always a compromise, though - it's not as though the shoes fit well and there is excess space at the sides of my feet.

    I tried that trick with the AE Park Avenues that I tried on (back when Peter Sheppard still stocked them, which I don't believe they do anymore) and I even tried a EEE or EEEE fit. Whilst it was tremendously wide, the top of the shoe was still very low and as soon as I tried to do up the laces it felt extremely uncomfortable. I'm sometimes willing to suffer for fashion, but I could never have worn those shoes.

    I have found that, as a rule, Italian shoes tend to have higher insteps and so I have tended to purchase more from brands like Santoni, Ferragamo's Tramezza line and so on.
    The Vass U-last also has quite a high instep and it fits me very well.

    Finding shoes that fit a high instep is really a matter of trial and error, and of trying them on whenever possible before buying them.

    I asked some questions about shoes for those with high insteps a few years back, and got a few responses - here is one of them, which may be of some assistance.
     


  2. tomee

    tomee Senior member

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    awesome info Journeyman and fxh. thanks for sharing
    :cheers:

    i have a wide foot as well as having that high bump. the width of my foot measures 4.4"! and im a size 42

    ive never bought high end leather shoes before so dont know much about width sizing etc.
    i was looking on Herring last night and have these 5 shoes in mind with the criteria being brown and captoe and under $250AU

    http://www.herringshoes.co.uk/produ...tID=116&oldcolID=2531&seconds=&colour_id=1820

    http://www.herringshoes.co.uk/produ...&catID=22&oldcolID=209&seconds=&colour_id=210

    http://www.herringshoes.co.uk/produ...shoeID=4333&selectedSizeID=0&selectedFitID=0#

    http://www.herringshoes.co.uk/produ...&shoeID=2760&selectedSizeID=0&selectedFitID=0

    http://www.herringshoes.co.uk/produ...atID=42&oldcolID=2396&seconds=&colour_id=423#
     
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2011


  3. GuidoWongolini

    GuidoWongolini Senior member

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    - may I suggest you go into a reputable mens shoe shop that stocks English shoes & get sized up properly as a guide.
    - for example I vary nearly 1/2 size between,
    Edward Green 202 & 606 same, yet 1/2 size up with 888 lasts
    John Lobb 7000 is 1/2 size larger than 8000
    Anthony Cleverley is 1/2 size smaller than George Cleverley
    Crocket & Jones 337 is 1/2 size larger than 348
    Vass U is 1/2 size larger than F or New Peter last​
    - also make sure when trying dress shoes that you walk in wearing dress shoes & not boots or sneakers as your feet will fill out accordingly, especially if you are wear sneakers or Ugg Boots :D
    - finally don't go to early as your feet have yet to swell & don't go in too late in the day
     


  4. Journeyman

    Journeyman Senior member

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    Tomee,

    The first three pairs don't look very good.
    The last two look fine.

    The first pair are by Barker, which make reasonable shoes - I have a pair - but these are from a lower line, and the soles are glued to the leather upper. This means that they are not particularly well-made, nor particularly long-lasting.

    The next two pairs are from one of Loake's lower lines and the leather looks to be corrected-grain, as it seems to have a bit of a plastic-like finish to it. Best avoided, as corrected-grain leather doesn't typically wear well.

    The final two are from one of Loake's higher lines and look fine.

    Something that I like to do before I wear new shoes is take some leather moisturizer - RM William's leather conditioner is fine - and rub it into the leather, particularly the part at the front of the shoe that flexes when you walk (ie the part behind the cap and in front of the laces). I like to apply the conditioner a few times, with a day or two between each application, before wearing the shoes. Perhaps it's just a footwear version of the placebo effect, but I think that it helps to soften the leather and the shoes break in well as a result.

    I agree with Phat Guido's suggestion to try on shoes if at all possible, as it can help to avoid a great deal of trouble later (as returning shoes to an overseas vendor is typically neither cheap nor easy). David Jones stock a variety of Loake, including some on the 026 last, so you could go into DJs and try them on for size before placing an order.
     
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2011


  5. tomee

    tomee Senior member

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    thanks for the great advice guys!
    didnt know DJ stocks Loaks.
    will have a gander tomorrow but their customer service lacks in the shoe department as it can be hard to get an attendant to help you.

    plus i think the one near me is under renovations too :(
     
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2011


  6. fxh

    fxh Senior member

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    Tomee
    I'll have a better squiz tomorrow now I'm on the iPad . First impressions I'd say most here would agree those chukkas are pretty fugly. Although chukkas generally are versatile and great for high arches / top foot.

    I'd say the burgundy Hampsteads are the most versatile.

    Tell us more about what the situations is? Eg I notice you said it's your first leather good shoes, are they for work, do you wear a suit, what else have you got etc etc.
     


  7. fxh

    fxh Senior member

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    Where are you? - in Sydney ?

    One of the things that makes people not feel bad about using DJs to try on is their high prices and atrocious service. Just get the casual high school kid in their " high end" shoe dept to give you a few sizes either side in a few shoes, remember what last and size fits best and order online.

    With a bit of luck the kid will wander off or be distracted by another customer or have to serve in ladies socks and you will be free of their " knowledge" for 10 minutes to try on a bunch of stuff.

    In addition to what Phat G said about end of day, make sure you wear dress socks, not too thick and not too thin, that way you have the ability to wear thicker or thinner to get a better fit later on.

    The other way is measure your foots according to how it says online somewhere , I'll look tomorrow for you, and send the measurements to herring, they'll tell your what size. Then if you are not sure order say a 9F as well as a 8.5G. They both arrive together, not much more postage than one, and try them on , then send back what doesn't fit. It will cost around $30 to send a pair back to UK. But consider it a service fee to get a right fit, then it's cheap.
     
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2011


  8. tomee

    tomee Senior member

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    thanks fxh.
    im in Melbourne so the DJ's at chadstone are under renovations and mostly all their shoes are on trestle tables.

    i work in a business casual environment so no one wears a suit. our work is very lenient on what we wear. people can wear anything from jeans and our company jumper, to jeans and a polo or nice pants and a shirt.
    my shoes are mostly suede. they include chukkas,loafers and a florsheim oxford

    im looking for shoes that can go with my wool pants on those days i want to 'dress up'

    eager to see what link you have for measurements to send to Herring :)

    do Loakes display the lasts number in the shoe or box? sorry noob questions
     
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2011


  9. eightace

    eightace Senior member

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    A question:

    Aren't most leather shoes, even the high end brands, corrected grain? Or am I missing something?

    If they're not corrected grain, then what are they? I'm still learning about these things.

    Cheers,

    Eightace
     


  10. Journeyman

    Journeyman Senior member

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    Some expensive shoes are made from corrected-grain leather - particularly in Australia, where we pay ridiculous prices for low-quality shoes. As an example, Church's - which make some very good shoes - also sell shoes made from "binder" leather (their term for corrected grain). Most high-end shoes, however, are made from calf leather. The big difference is that corrected grain leather is made from cheap, poor quality leather which has had the outside leather shaved away and then "corrected" by the application of a coloured, plastic-like outer layer, whereas calf leather shoes are made from coloured leather to which you can apply polish to get a nice shine. At first glance, corrected grain leather can look nice - it has a high shine and it is low maintenance. However, it scuffs easily and unlike a calf leather shoe, the scuffs cannot be polished away. Also, the plastic-like top layer on CG shoes cracks more noticeably than on most calf-leather shoes. Here are a few threads from around Styleforum on corrected grain leather: - "Please give me a short explanation of corrected grain leather" - "How to spot corrected grain leather" - "What's wrong with corrected grain?"
     


  11. fxh

    fxh Senior member

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    Agh Donny. Last I looked Donny had more Loakes than the city.

    Beggar, Man, Thief in Clarenden St, Sth Melbourne has a huge range of Loakes, some of the ones you are looking at mainly 1880 range and a vry huge range o suede desert boots, chukkas and shoes from many brands. It's a small friendly store so I wouldn't go in to try on and buy online. But it is good to see what the shoes and colours look like. their Loakes are pretty much all $400 , well $395 actually.

    McClouds in the city is the best shoe store with Northhampton shoes, good service and very knowledgable about fit etc, but not cheap. They sell the Churches I have in my opshop sale for $850. Online I think they are $450or so. But McClouds are good. I have a friend who is happy to buy his Churches there.

    Henry Bucks also have English shoes and a small selection of Loakes.

    As to context, I see you have plenty of suede and DBs etc, good. I'd still suggest in these circumstances you don't get a too formal consrvative shoe. Get something like those burgundy Hampsteads and you'll have a shoe better than everyone else at work or anywhere at most places and you'll still be able to wear it with jeans and chinos.

    I'd still suggest looking at open laced similar style as I'm convinced they work better with high footses. Also consider going to a good podiatrist for a consult, they should see any foot problems, advise on how to correct them and also give you a shoe size. Not all know what a good shoe is, my guy does and has ordered online. My podiatrist is in Mont Albert, may not be too far from you, he's not far from rail station.
     


  12. fxh

    fxh Senior member

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    Tome e that's good if DJs are all on trestles, just grab some sizes and sit down and go sick trying on. The shoe style, name,and last plus identifying codes/ numbers are usually printed inside on side of shoe, some do it on underside of tongue.

    RL at Donny isn't bad to poke around in sometimes, but they are a bit too cool for school mostly for me, Oxford is ok if you like their stuff, Gazman is good especially on sale for midrange stuff. CR at Donny has a decent range but CR has generally gone downhill and rarely worth ma look. All the rest are mindless fashion stores who read too many glossy mags and watch too much tv, overpriced tat.

    Retail is doing it tough, largely their own fault the big chains etc, and so sales are the go, buy nothing at full price. W
     


  13. tomee

    tomee Senior member

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    nice, thanks for the info again
    never even considered wearing those hamsteads with jeans. picturing it in my head it does not compute :D
    although i would love a shoe that i can wear with most things and last me ages, i just saw these which i like too :D
    http://www.herringshoes.co.uk/produ...tID=109&oldcolID=1525&seconds=&colour_id=1526

    just need to figure out the loakes line to decipher which one is the better made shoes
     
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2011


  14. bhall41

    bhall41 Senior member

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    Tomee the top line for Loake is 1880, which is not widely available here. Calf leather and - supposedly - still made in England. Pediwear and Herring shoes sell them online. Quality is respectable for the price but obviously there are other, higher end brands available. I think Loake 1880 is a good launching pad for future purchases.
     


  15. eightace

    eightace Senior member

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    Thanks Journeyman. Much appreciated.
     


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