Australian Members

[cemi1988]

believe me, i am not doubting pjohnson's quality. there's no question product quality is high, service excellent and the following deserved.

having said that, the issue of whether the following is deserved or not is irrelevant to my previous post; the content of which i stand by.

 

[JimmyHoffa]

I apologise, forgive me. I was probably trying to convince myself more than anything. I quoted you out of context. All things said and done, I agree with your original post!

 

[Oli2012]

I won't go on, but I can understand why the thread gets annoyed at the posts.

Along with half the members knowing Patrick in person, there's a certain internet forum gnarlishness that comes with the questioning, ala the so often heard: "I could get a chick to make me a bespoke suit in Vietnam for $50." It lacks respect for the service.

I can see why modern tailoring is going down this route - its the well fitted garment without the labour costs. For 99.999999% of the general public it will suffice.

 

[Nolvadex]

So how much does pj cost?

 

[Oli2012]



So how much does pj cost?

$3.50

 

[Osiris2012]

$3.50

God Dammit Loch Ness Monster Oli, I ain’t gonna give you no tree fiddy

 

[FredAstaire1899]

A) Uses Italian fabrics and Italian tailoring houses (providing high quality hand finishing)
B) Measures you in person and customises the pattern to fit you
C) Provides unlimited alterations and fittings within a short period once the suit arrives and
D) Prices sub $2,000 for a suit?

Disclaimer - this is not meant as a criticism nor promotion of any tailors or gentleman's outfitting companies discussed or not discussed on this board.

A) is the main issue. I can find you tailors in Sydney conservative business dress that can do fully canvassed (some padded by hand), altered patterns (even re-drafted), four fittings from baste from high quality Italian and English cloths, probably a 2-3 week turn around to first fitting, a little over $2000. However, it would be difficult to find you soft shoulders, let alone non-padded ones. Hand made button holes, horn buttons and pick stitching, possible. Factor in that small operations must buy pre-fabricated trimmings from suppliers at this price point, which may not be equal in quality to those accessible from a large Italian factory. Light canvasses, skirted trouser banding are all very difficult. Is the tailor using an updated block, or one optimized for your desired silhouette?

People would refer to such a service by multiple terms: bespoke, semi-bespoke or MTM. And what is a bespoke garment exactly? Perhaps all of the following: a totally new drafted pattern, an exacting alteration of a house style, having baste fittings, the best fabrics, top quality trimmings, hand finishes, padding the canvas by hand, made on Saville Row. Maybe 'The best tailor in town' in the 1960's, or the 'a good local tailor' 100 years ago.

You must choose the service that fits your requirements the best. This thread contains many suggestions, reviews, and for the very large part, people doing their best to help steer others in the right direction.

 

[jmills]

Odd question but has anyone seen olive chinos for sale anywhere recently?

 

[Pink Socks]



Odd question but has anyone seen olive chinos for sale anywhere recently?

PJ could make you a bespoke pair....

Haha, sorry couldn't resist. Definitely seen them around - Gant Rugger had a pair not too long ago. They shouldn't be too difficult to find - I am sure others will chime in with some helpful links.

What is your price range? And does it need to be local?

 

[Geoffrey Firmin]



Good find. I already have a dark brown and a green pair. That navy looks nice. Burgundy is good depending on what you eat it with.

FTFY

 

[iSurg]

Gazman: we are a society of sorts. Come to a forum meet and you will understand.

 

[TimelessMan]

For those who'll be in town, Chris and Nick Schaerf of Double Monk in Melbourne will be hosting George Glasgow Junior and Teemu Leppanen of GJ Cleverley, on March 14 and 15, including drinks at their boutique on the Friday night. I've just put up a new post with the information for the couple of days.

http://www.timelessman.com.au/advice/gj-cleverly-trunk-show-double-monk/

Unfortunately for everyone else, I'll be there too... 

 

[sliq]

Odd question but has anyone seen olive chinos for sale anywhere recently?

http://epauletnewyork.com/collections/trousers-chinos/Rivet-Chinos

limited sizes though.

 

[Coxsackie]

Here's my layman's understanding of bespoke vs MTM:

With MTM, I can see an example of the garment before I order it, either hanging on a rack or in a catalog. The garment I order will be made with the same fabric, in the same style and cut. I may be able to specify minor customisations such as working vs. non-working sleeve buttons. I will then be measured up and the garment will be made to fit my specific body shape and size.

With bespoke, I have to specify style and cut, select the fabric, and outline all the various specifications - lapel width, shoulder style, structure, padding, canvassing, pocket style and placement, vents and so forth.

Recently I commissioned a suit from a Shanghai tailor. I selected the fabric and showed my tailor a photo of a suit in a catalog whose style I liked. I simply asked him to copy that style. I regard this as a fully bespoke commission.

In Sydney I could order a MTM suit from, say, the Canali boutique, or the Tom Ford booth at Harrolds. I doubt either shop could offer me a bespoke service.

Am I on the right track here?

 

[Coxsackie]

Anyone heard of "Tom James of Sydney"?

I was approached on the street yesterday by an attractive young lass who complimented me on my jacket (fresh from my tailor who had made some alterations to fit).

It's always nice to receive a compliment from a young lady.

Anyway, she handed me her business card. She works as a tailor (or perhaps "clothier", which is how she's described on the card) for the above firm.

Seems there are a few of these niche men's clothing firms starting up lately, especially in Melbourne. This is the first one I've heard of in Sydney.