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Australian Members

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by earthdragon, Nov 18, 2008.

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  1. The Ernesto

    The Ernesto Senior member

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    Seem to recall low gorges were a bit of a 90s thing as well (not to mention some people producing double breasted with notches in the 90s!).
     
  2. The Ernesto

    The Ernesto Senior member

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    Agree with this in general. There's a sweet spot there.
     
  3. Brendon

    Brendon Senior member

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    Hi all on the gorge

    ....with a tailor, " you pay you have the say". If the tailor is obstinate (so worried about his house name) he can always decline. With Made to Measure and off the peg you can see the Gorge. It is aesthetic of course and has no real bearing on the fit. So be your selves with it, all down to taste. The Roll of the lapel is down to something called spring in the collar. This is put in the melton under collar.
    A lot of the old screen dancers and singing stars would have had high cut armholes and sleeves with a lot of height so they could dance and croon around until the leading ladies, realised their lives were not complete, until this slim 36 chest man made sense of life for their pretty heads.
    In a good hand made coat you should be able to shake hands without the coat moving. Look at the symphony conductors. The tails with a well cut hand made sleeve will stay still, ( within reason) whilst he or she scribbles in the air. The rent a tux will jump up and down with the violins bow. Sleeves are the hardest thing in hand making coats. The problems will generally appear in the right sleeve

    Brendon
     
    1 person likes this.
  4. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

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    @mezentius , maybe try the Henry Bucks sale - O'Connell Street.
     
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  5. DartagnanRed

    DartagnanRed Senior member

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    Tuxes are nice and pricey off the rack in Sydney. For good ones:
    Herringbone - $1300ish - nice classic black tuxes, softish shoulder, shawl and peak lapel
    MJ Bale - $1000ish - less classic, some gaudy, some coloured, some basic, soft shoulder, shawl and peak lapel
    Henry Bucks - $1000ish have their own dinner suits, ok quality, harder shoulder, shawl lapel
    Hardy Amies - $1000ish - probably on sale at DJs right now, relatively modern fit, they do a classic and a midnight blue, hard shoulder, shawl and peak lapel
    Rhodes and Beckett - $1100ish - classic black, hard shoulder, peak lapel
     
    3 people like this.
  6. PapaRubbery

    PapaRubbery Senior member

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    If you're a fairly 'normal' size you could order from SS and it'll be here by Monday at the latest.
     
    1 person likes this.
  7. mezentius

    mezentius Senior member

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    Ty for the suggestions guys, should probably have mentioned that I'm looking for something more conservative and well constructed - so if herringbone does a narrow lapel like the do on their suits, they're out. Reason for looking at ss is because they have generous lapels and are full canvas...don't know if that means they're better quality in general, though. Also have doubts if their nontrivial trouser taper is appropriate.
     
  8. Foxhound

    Foxhound Senior member

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    Oscar Hunt Cord jacket just in.
    [​IMG]
     
    8 people like this.
  9. DartagnanRed

    DartagnanRed Senior member

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    Herringbone tux doesn't have particularly skinny lapels, but not very wide either.

    Suitsupply is a great option assuming you get the right size, I'd order asap so you can try and exchange if you stuff it up. Alternatively order two and just ship the other one back (not as expensive as you think).

    Suitsupply does a pretty good dinner suit package, currently on sale for ~800ish for tux, dinner shirt, bow tie and dinner shoes OR smoking jacket, tux trousers, dinner shirt, bowtie and dinner shoes. That's pretty darn good value.
     
  10. Journeyman

    Journeyman Senior member

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    That's a good look, Foxie - quite possibly my favourite outfit/combination of yours out of the ones that I remember you posting over the past year or so.
     
  11. wurger

    wurger Senior member

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    Sam Hober custom ties

    [​IMG]
     
    2 people like this.
  12. Geoffrey Firmin

    Geoffrey Firmin Senior member

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    Looking good Tax Man.
     
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  13. Oli2012

    Oli2012 Senior member

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    You should see his new Barbour.
     
  14. The Ernesto

    The Ernesto Senior member

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    I used to work in that building. Possibly on that floor. Certainly your best fit.
     
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  15. Stiva

    Stiva Senior member

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    There was an interesting discussion by Edmorel in the WAYWRN thread recently concerning the relationship between gorge height and the height of the wearer - with which I tend to agree. Pingson is another tall poster who prefers lower gorges on that account. See below:

    "One of the things that I think people don't pay a lot of attention to, or maybe just don't think/care about is something that chocosa does so well (hopefully purposely and not by accident). I think he mentioned once that he is 6'5-6'7 so something and that he was a basketball player at Indiana (if so, we'll try not to hold it against him). When you're that tall, its tough to dress well and not look like, well, that you are that tall. Same with being very skinny or carrying a lot of girth or being very short, these all have various "issues" to work through in the realm of classic clothing but chocosa is an example of something we can all use, regardless of our body types.

    "I'll start by saying that choc's style is not my own. His is sleek, somewhat slim, monotone and thats not my thing. I would suggest something else for him but that is neither here nor there, lets look at what he does. I would guess that one of the first things that stands out to people here is his jacket length. Its longer than what is typically shown here. The second thing they may stand out is his gorge, that is much lower than the current trend. I would guess that if he asked "what would you change", people would tell him to go higher on gorge and shorter on jacket. But they would be WRONG. I have no idea about the dimension's of choc's upper and lower body, but given the dimensions of this suit, it looks as if both halfs are equal in length. That is absolutely perfect. A guy that is probably a giant next to normal sized people, looks perfectly "normal" in this outfit. The length of the jacket elongates his top half and makes it seem equal to his bottom half and more importantly for him, the length of the jacket makes the length of his arms look proportionate. If you look at his arms on their own, they seem to be the size of most people's legs. If that jacket was shorter, those arms would really stand out at you.

    "On to the gorge. Its low and if you compare to Isaia etc, its about 15 inches lower. But why doesn't it smack us in the face announcing its lowness as soon as you look at the pic? Because of his height and the lapels width. He is a very tall guy and since there is so much length to the jacket, the distance between his shoulder line and the gorge does not seem abnormal. This same gorge on a guy 5'8 wearing a jacket that is 29 inches in length would stand out like a sore thumb. The lapel width is also just right, about half the width of the chest. Super skinny or super wide lapels here would, again, make that gorge really stand out."
     
    2 people like this.
  16. The Ernesto

    The Ernesto Senior member

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  17. deingesicht

    deingesicht Senior member

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    My wife thinks I have a problem, so I'm coming here to seek a second opinion.
    [​IMG]
     
    2 people like this.
  18. Prince of Paisley

    Prince of Paisley Senior member

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    Looking good Rust. Best dressed man in Carcosa.
     
    Last edited: Jul 28, 2014
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  19. Prince of Paisley

    Prince of Paisley Senior member

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    Yep, your wife is right. Your problem is you don't seem to own enough suede.
     
    Last edited: Jul 28, 2014
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  20. deingesicht

    deingesicht Senior member

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    Suede is the black c&j double monk in the middle - sorry for the bad pic quality.

    I need some loafers though...
     
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