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Australian Members

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by earthdragon, Nov 18, 2008.

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  1. DartagnanRed

    DartagnanRed Senior member

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    I find that obviously ~12 ounce denim is cooler, but it has disadvantages. It stretches more, making sizing a bit more difficult and also it doesn't "hang" as nicely on the leg. The lesser weight means more bunching at the knee and it also wears quicker. For a first pair I would definitely recommend ~14 ounce, which as nabil and TBM have said should be fine for ~9 months of the year.

    I wouldn't worry about how stiff they are, this is part of the fun and they soften up quicker than you'd expect.
     
  2. Journeyman

    Journeyman Senior member

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    I was going to insert a double-entendre here, but then I remembered that I'm not fxh or PoP.

    Seriously, though, I agree with this. I've got some fairly heavy Japanese selvedge denim that was quite thick and hard (ha!) at first but which softened up nicely with some regular weekend wear and now it's really comfortable.
     
  3. The Ernesto

    The Ernesto Senior member

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    You just did.
     
  4. Gianni Cerutti

    Gianni Cerutti Senior member

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    When you have no preparation and culture in the context of vintage silks is better to keep quiet. Otherwise you make serious mistakes. Silence is golden sometimes. When you come to Italy, come and touch this vintage fabric hand-printed. And once you realize that what you wrote is wrong. I want you to really understand the differences. And even if you do not buy my own bespoke vintage ties, there are no problems. I'll gladly do the same for having explained something different from what you know. I am available. And this without being polemical. I just want to explain the truth of things. And when you will touch this stuff you realize immediately that it is printed by hand and that is vintage. Thanks for everything, Gianni
     
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  5. Foxhound

    Foxhound Senior member

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    OH SHIT
     
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  6. thebrownman

    thebrownman Senior member

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    Compliments
     
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  7. Geoffrey Firmin

    Geoffrey Firmin Senior member

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    I wonder how you determine the 'vintage' character of Silk I have a few ties form the 40's and 50's would they be vintage?
     
  8. fxh

    fxh Senior member

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    +1
    At DIRECT DIGITAL PRINT, we specialise in direct digital printing onto woven, natural-fibre fabrics such as silk, cotton and linen. We offer a wide range of fabrics, from lightweight silk georgette to heavyweight 8 oz cotton canvas. We also sublimate (transfer print) onto a selection of synthetic fabrics, with a particular focus on polyester lycra blends to cater to our ever-growing swimwear clientele. Our minimum for printing is usually 1m and our maximum depends on how much you require. Direct digital printing onto nylon lycra is also available on request [with a 10m minimum].

    TURN AROUND TIME: Our usual turn-around time is 1-2 weeks, but does depend on how many metres you require and how busy we are. For larger jobs, we require a minimum of 2- 3 weeks where possible. If you require a faster turn around, please contact us and we will see what we can do. Please note, this will incur a rush fee. P.O.A.

    Our pricing includes: artwork preparation cost + printing per metre cost+ base cloth per metre cost.

    ARTWORK PREPARATION: This involves colour matching your design and includes fabric tests for you to select from. This is charged at $110/hour.

    PRINTING COST (AUD$): Printing is charged per linear metre. Student prices on application.
    NATURALS: SYNTHETICS:
    1-5 metres ….…. $100 per metre 1-5 metres ….…. $ 75 per metre
    6-10 metres …… $ 75 per metre 6-10 metres …… $ 65 per metre
    11-20 metres …. $ 70 per metre 11-20 metres …. $ 55 per metre
    21-50 metres … $ 60 per metre 21-50 metres … $ 45 per metre
    51-100 metres … $ 55 per metre 51-100 metres … $ P.O.A.

    BASE CLOTH COST: Please see our Base Cloth PDFs for a full list fabrics and costs per metre.

    NATURAL FIBRES: All our natural fibre base cloth costs include a coating fee. This coating is necessary for us to achieve optimal colour on natural fibre fabrics. We stock a wide range of coated silks ($25.00/m to $37.00/m), cottons ($17.00/m to $27.50/m) and hemp blends ($30.50/m to $35.00/m). We do not accept client-supplied fabric for coating and printing. Please see our NATURAL FIBRES PDF for a full list of fabrics and costs.

    SYNTHETIC FIBRES: We carry a small range of synthetic base cloths in a variety of weights ($3.50/m to $26.50/m). As we do not need to coat polyester fabrics, we do take client-supplied 100% polyester, PFP or PFGD base cloths in white for printing. Please see our SYNTHETIC FIBRES PDF for a full list of fabrics and costs.

    SHRINKAGE: For all printing, an additional 10-15% of your base cloth quantity is required to cover shrinkage. E.g. For 5m of printing, we allow 5.5m of base cloth, which you are charged for. This additional percentage is for the base cloth only – the printing cost stays at 5m.

    To help us do the best job we can for you, there are several points we ask you to consider about your work before coming to see us.

    WHAT KIND OF DESIGN ARE YOU PRINTING?
    * Is your design a repeat, a placement, or a single image?
    If you have a design that you would like to print as a continuous yardage, but can not do the repeat yourself, we can do this for you for an additional fee. Alternatively, you can provide your design already in repeat to us. If your design is a placement or single image, please let us know how many copies you need, and the final print size you would like it to be in order for us to be able to give you an accurate quote.

    * Is the design photographic or is it flat colour?
    Knowing what your design looks like – even a rough indication – helps is to judge how long it will take to prepare for printing.

    WHAT FABRIC WOULD YOU LIKE TO USE?
    We have a large selection of fabrics that are suitable for various purposes – please make your selection from our natural fibre list (see PDF), or our polyester list (see PDF). If you are not sure what fabric you require, you can contact us at the studio and we can go over options with you, as well as send out an info pack with samples for your reference.

    HOW MUCH FABRIC DO YOU NEED?
    As our costing is per metre, you will need to provide us with the total amount of metres you need per design/s early on, to allow us to provide you with an accurate quote.

    DO YOU HAVE A DEADLINE?
    Our turn around time is usually 1 – 2 weeks, however, the earlier you give us your design, the better! If you need something more urgently, please contact the studio and we can see what we can do.
    Note: A shorter turn-around time may incur a rush fee.

    DIRECT DIGITAL PRINT was established in 1999 to offer clients fast accurate strike offs, sampling and short runs prior to production using digital printing. Our client base has extended to include not only established designers, but up-and-coming fashion designers, artists, photographers, illustrators, students and anyone interested in printing unique designs or images onto fabric.

    Small minimums and quick turn around offers a wide range of businesses as well as individuals an opportunity to prototype their designs onto a variety of base cloths.

    DDP is a division of Longina Phillips Designs.
    Postal Address

    PO Box 1308, Strawberry Hills, NSW 2012, Australia
    Street Address

    Level 1 425 Elizabeth Street
    Surry Hills NSW Australia 2010
     
  9. fxh

    fxh Senior member

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    Gianni - I don't think you get the joke. It all about the big picture and about the outraged gents on the net..Only partly about you.

    I couldn't give a rats about printed or screen print ties. If it looks good it is good.

    The joke is that people who most likely couldn't tell the difference between a decent polyester tie and decent silk tie were/are all excited about "vintage". In the world of igent clothing words -as the rabbit, or was it Alice, said - mean exactly what you want them to mean. Bespoke can mean anything. Vintage even if used properly should mean at least 20 years old. That makes foxy vintage!

    Handmade means a human might have touched it somewhere along the supply chain. The words "exclusive" and "limited number" can apply to an Apple gizmo of which there are millions available and more to be made depending on demand. To call oneself a tailor means you can, possibly, use a tape measure. Italian in a blurb or on a label means that someone can spell Italian. And so on and so forth.

    Its the surrounding fuss thats funny.

    For what its worth I thought that some of your ties were good and colourful but not in my price range. I don't care if they were bulk stamped out in a shed in Outer Mongolia or Queensland.
     
    2 people like this.
  10. thebrownman

    thebrownman Senior member

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    One needs many years on their shoulder to understand these jokes.
     
  11. thebrownman

    thebrownman Senior member

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  12. fxh

    fxh Senior member

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    I have many years on the shoulder and am slaking my thirst at the moment.
     
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  13. crappbag

    crappbag Senior member

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    [​IMG]
    Today marks the start of an expensive obsession.

    Purchased from Watchtrader.
     
    6 people like this.
  14. Gianni Cerutti

    Gianni Cerutti Senior member

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    Thanks for your comment. But see a printer next to a vintage fabric hand-printed many years ago for me is tacky. Also because it has nothing to do. That's it.

    Also because these false controversy makes me sad because I see that it lacks the serious preparation for a true critique. And it is all done for economic reasons.

    And when the criticism is driven by money, the first casualty is truth. But then again, I am calm and happy. The truth always comes to the surface.

    Thanks for everything.

    Gianni
     
  15. sliq

    sliq Senior member

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    congrats! out of curiousity what's the diameter on them? i've always loved IWC but i've got a fairly small wrist..
     
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  16. crappbag

    crappbag Senior member

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    Thanks, this one is 42mm.

    I've got a tiny wrist and it is a little big on me, but I don't mind the look.
    [​IMG]
     
  17. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

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    Current model Portofino Chronograph. Noice.

    Some of these come on a Santoni strap - can't see from the photo whether yours does. But it's a lovely timepiece. Complimenti.
     
    1 person likes this.
  18. Geoffrey Firmin

    Geoffrey Firmin Senior member

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    Interesting Budget comentary sadly the rest of the populace is not calm and happy and somehow the truth has become lost.
     
  19. wurger

    wurger Senior member

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    Like JM said, get some Loakes. Available in AUS, and easy to purchase online too.
     
  20. sliq

    sliq Senior member

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    p.s. met Joe from b&tailor today and got measured for a 3r2 dark grey suit; notch lapel; soft shoulder, eschewed any padding. also got an extra pair of trousers - one flat front and the other with pleats. was a painless exercise. looking forward to getting the final product!
     
    2 people like this.
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