Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by earthdragon, Nov 18, 2008.
Initial rant about university clothes here:
Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
I didn't get around to mentioning a few things:
It also depends on what sort of role you have and what sort of person you are.
Do you teach? Much? Do you do one off lectures or do you have a consistent bunch of students for a semester or a whole year?
Are you friendly, egalitarian and friendly and charming by nature or are you naturally stand offish, self absorbed and not a real "people person"?
Are you an expert in your field or just a conduit for information? Good lecturer - public speaker?
The hardest part is knowing yourself, your style and the environment /context you are in. You cant know yourself overnight. And what looks great on one person will be totally wrong on another.
In general a "hard" look - shiny worsted suit, bright red shiny tie, white shirt doesn't go down all that well anywhere except those brash environments where it is standard.
A hard look is by nature more confrontational, less amenable to influence - if this is combined with a natural tendency to be this way yourself then it spells relative disaster in most situations.
A "softer" more approachable, but still smart and clean, look is rarely the wrong look.
So think of not bright white shirts, not severe spread collars, not smooth poplin shirts, not shiney bright ties in single colours, not worsted suits and jackets, not mirror polished shoes, not high shiny belts, not cufflinks, not pocket hankies. Think textures - say cords, different weaves, chambray shirts, OCBD, suede shoes and belts, brogues or more "country" shoes on sensibel lasts rather than narrow and sleek, woven leather belts, relaxed jackets, subdued colours.......
Oh for a place to buy a wash n wear or poplin suit in a relaxed fit in khaki or blue.
I'm a scientist in a biotech institute on campus and can vouch for much of this.
I even got many suspicious looks when I turned up to the lab in trousers and a button up (but once people got to know me they've dropped the initial judgements). I was actually asked by one of the research-assistants (who is in his late 20s like me) "when was I going to stop dressing all fancy." (I almost responded that as long as you keep wearing shorts and worn-out sneakers, I'll keep wearing this.)
However, science and academia generally is full of oddballs and as others have pointed out, most people will accept your dress sense eventually as long as it's not too outrageous and you wear it well. I'm in a strange position where lots of the work that comes out of the institute is for biotech/pharma companies, so we have the full gamete of shorts/t-shirt lab researchers, all the way to suited and booted executives who come to meet with the Professors and group leaders about commercialisation of novel research, large investments and start-ups (this is the rare occasion when you see the academics wearing a jacket and tie). The director however, who started as a researcher himself, is always immaculately dressed. He came to a lab meeting the other day in a grey herringbone jacket, blue cotton trousers, a navy spotted knit tie and black horse-bit loafers. However, it really only seems to be the much more senior positions in which this style of dressing is expected/encouraged.
Afternoon Gents. I know this has been covered previously, and I'm in the process of conducting research on the matter, however I'd like to get some personal perspectives on Hong Kong form both a sartorialist and food perspective.
The plan is to spend 6 nights there in late October and I've already pencilled in visits to:
- The Armoury
- WW Chan (may be combined with the above - firing off some enquiries as we speak)
In addition to this Ms Smeggett and myself have set ourselves a challenge to sample the (nominal) 8 schools of chinese cooking when there, so any recommendations for restaurants offering different cuisines would be appreciated. We'll be staying near TST, so anything Kowloon, Mongkok, Causeway Bay, etc is infinitely do-able.
PS: fxh - I'm enjoying reading your observations on academic dress. It's bringing back plenty of memories, not least of which is the flanny shirts and track pants I used to amble about in back in my uni days...
Found my best fitting khakis today at DJ's went ahead and bought them as they where perfect! Went one to google this pant to see if I could buy some...... As luck would have it they've been discontinued
Oh and ElBulli closed.....2 years ago! Fuck me.....this is what I get for not paying attention to cooking for a couple years.....
Safe to say I had an ok day today
Edit: Vey awesome discussion on 'Aussie Ivy'! Keep it coming guys!
Bunny, what size are you?
Usually 34-36; but RL had some crazy vanity sizing and these awesome fitting khakis came to 32...WTF!
Nabil - this is outstanding. Great photo, great outfit, superb colours.
Re: Uni dress. I think PR should dress down a bit if that's what he feels is appropriate. A jacket and trousers is not the only clean cut, professional and acceptable outfit, despite CM tendencies. However, I have to say I find it almost unbelievable how much people seem to care what members wea (as in stories of those members who work at Universities being questioned about their dress).
Me too. Mind boggling.
It's just clothes. Seriously. It's all good to give a shit about how you present yourself to the outside world but does it require one to be pensive? Too many rules and guidelines happening.
No one seems to like French Cuffs on SF, is this just an American thing? I'm still at uni and starting to build my wardrobe for internships and interviews down the track and wondering if I will ever within the next 5 years require a french cuff shirt.
Lord we beseech thee to drive a stake through the heart of the infidels and ensure that the Wallabies triumph tonight. And as the lyrics go 'in the jungle the mighty jungle the Lions weep tonight'
Have some very nice South Australian Shiraz on hand to wash down home made pizza and as the game rolls on. Mind you in George we trust. Let the game begin (or I will end up pissed before kick off at this rate)
Nobody ever 'requires' a french cuff shirt, it's just nice to mix it up. The nicest thing about french cuffs is having nice cufflinks to wear.
Like they say, variety is the spice of life.
(1) French cuffs are often seen as flashy and therefore not appropriate for young guys (ie most of SF)
(2) they aren't as versatile as they can only be worn with a suit.
I don't think you need them.
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