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Australian Members

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by earthdragon, Nov 18, 2008.

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  1. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Senior member

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    I thrifted a couple of suits branded Cambridge. The only places that I seem to be able to find any reference to them is in New Zealand. So, not sure if they are also sold in Australia, but is anyone familiar? Just wondering what I have.
     
  2. Diplomat

    Diplomat Member

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    Hi guys

    I signed up ages ago, but never really posted due time constraints. I am hoping to change that and to contribute to the forum.

    Does anyone know of a place in Canberra that will finish suit sleeves, i.e. buttons and buttonholes (working or non-working)?

    I gave one of my unfinished sleeve suits to Looksmart in Civic and the outcome was quite poor. Buttons were not attached in a straight line and the (non-working) buttonholes do not look very convincing.

    Anyway, I hope someone has some recommendations for Canberra or even Sydney.

    Thanks

    :)
     
  3. Journeyman

    Journeyman Senior member

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    I suspect that fxh or some other members here might be able to provide more info, but in short, Cambridge is an NZ company that makes suits under its own label, but which also makes suits for quite a few other brands, both in NZ and here in Australia. I think that they make suits in a range of specifications, from pretty ordinary to pretty decent.
     
  4. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Senior member

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    Thanks. Still would be great to hear any more info. They are half canvassed, so, at $10/ea, I'll be pretty happy with the purchase, whatever I find out.
     
  5. Henry Carter

    Henry Carter Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Same company as Rembrant if I remember correctly. I remember them but haven't seen any of either for years, but I think Rembrant is still around.
     
  6. fxh

    fxh Senior member

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    Unlike Australia NZ has a substantial clothing manufacturing industry and skills base. The outstanding performers (real performers in balance sheet terms not "designer" hype like here) lately have been outdoor performance wear and in particular merino wool cold climate "sport "wear which is still growing and exporting world wide.

    Cambridge is a clothing retailer and wholesaler from New Zealand.
    They are one of the only two mens suits or "tailored" clothing manufacturers in New Zealand. Like Rembrandt, Australia is their main market around 60% of output. The have outsourced some manufacturing to China possibly around 50%. I'm not sure which other brands they own or to what extent they manufacture for small retail brand lines.

    Rembrandt is an established NZ manufacturer since the 40s of mainly "tailored" mens clothing. The most common of their own brands I know they make are Kent & Lloyd, Rembrandt, Wayward Heir. They also do some "shop" brands for small (and large) retailers. They are a large supplier of MTM to Australian retailers. Their main market is Australia. I believe, but I'm not sure at all, that Rembrandt outsources some manufacturing to China. I believe - again I'm not sure, that they may outsource somethings to Fiji.

    Interestingly these manufacturers can offer a 2 day turnaround/delivery of stock to Australia. (and almost a similar language)

    I haven't looked into it in depth but I believe in textiles/clothing there is some ambiguity (as there is in most countries with Italy being the most notorious example) about what Made in NZ means and what it can be slapped on. The Aust/NZ CER (trade arrangements) have to be negotiated so - there is Australian rules, NZ rules and joint CER rules. Off the top of my head an article has to be finished (I do not know the precise definition of what "finished" is) in NZ and /or have around 50% of base manufacturing costs in NZ to qualify as Made in NZ.

    The above is broadly correct off the top of my head but don't rely on my details.
     
    Last edited: Feb 1, 2014
  7. Pink Socks

    Pink Socks Senior member

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    This would make a great signature.

    Appreciate the info as always, fxh.
     
  8. fxh

    fxh Senior member

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    Pinky

    Aberdeen airport Sunday
    MAX: 4°c - MIN: 3°c

    Sunrise: 08:07 AM - Sunset: 04:39 PM

    Feels Like -2 °c

    Wind
    28 mph SW

    Gust
    54 mph
     
  9. lennier

    lennier Senior member

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    They're probably best known here for Joe Black.
     
  10. fxh

    fxh Senior member

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    Thats interesting lennier - is that Cambridge or Rembrandt?
     
  11. The False Prophet

    The False Prophet Senior member

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    I believe Cambridge made for Pierucci, and I owned at least one of those back in the day, which was pretty nice.

    They also made somewhat tighter suits for Calibre at one point...
     
  12. The Ernesto

    The Ernesto Senior member

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    3000 pages. Well in, lads.
     
  13. JPK123

    JPK123 Member

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    First post. Long time lurker.

    Was just looking around for a mid priced (for me) suit and had originally written off Country Road, however their latest 'modern tailored' range looks to have a floating canvas chest piece, super 130s Italian wool from a known mill and Bemberg lining. Features that are usually reserved for suits well over 1k. http://www.countryroad.com.au/shop/man/the-suit-store/the-modern-tailored-suit

    Not completely sold on the cut but if buying on sale/VIP discount it leaves a bit of money to tailor it a little and end up with a pretty decent suit under 700NZD.

    Does anyone have any thoughts or further info on this range?
     
  14. DartagnanRed

    DartagnanRed Senior member

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    Country Road has stepped up their game all over recently, not just when it comes to suits. They're now probably the least worst of the various mediocre AU/NZ mass made suiting options. What's allowed them to do this are the massive gains China have made in suitmaking at a cheap price. Crazy how anyone can sell unlined jackets for $250-$300 and make a profit.

    Still, the material is nothing special. Hardly soft, almost coarse. S130s is irrelevant, if it feels nice then it's probably good wool. If it doesn't, then who cares about the thread count. I'm increasingly confused about "floating chest pieces". The difference between half canvassed suits and fused suits seems very blurred. Some makers seem to think they can fuse everything in the suit except for a small chestpiece that isn't strictly attached to parts of the suit and call it "canvassed". Floating chest piece =/= canvas necessarily. Even fused garments have a chest piece of some sort. I kind of have the view that if there isn't a separate canvas within the lapel, well then who cares whether it's half canvassed or fused. The CR website appears to imply this is the case, but I'm doubtful.

    All in all, if it fits then you could do worse for $450. If you're in NZ, I don't really know your other options but if you're able to make it to Aus, MJ Bale is still a better option and $700 is approaching SuitShop territory.
     
    1 person likes this.
  15. DartagnanRed

    DartagnanRed Senior member

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    1 person likes this.
  16. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

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    In Canada, at that Whistler skiing thingy on honeymoon.

    What is the forum zeitgeist on John Varvatos? Tried on a really nice unstructured JV jacket designed with a slightly unusual, vaguely shooting/hunting theme, but not really. Fabric is grey pinstripe, wool/polyester 50/50. Fits me well. Construction quality looks mid-range. Price around A$600 which appears to be the average RRP for this brand. However I don't think I've ever seen this brand in Oz.

    I'm somewhat tempted.
     
  17. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Senior member

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    I live in Vancouver, and haven't heard of it. That doesn't mean a lot though as I don't buy a lot of suits. Everything in Whistler is inflated, as you might imagine, though you might not find the same thing in Vancouver, even if you have time to go looking. If you have any Q's about six to see our do, restaurants etc in Vancouver, or local craft beer (on which I'm well educated) feel free to PM. Enjoy your honeymoon and congrats on the wedding!
     
    1 person likes this.
  18. fxh

    fxh Senior member

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    I haven't wandered through CR for ages. Years ago they had reasonable stuff - a long time ago I was part of team that looked at some of their cost structures/supply chain issues with regard to off shore manufacturing etc. That was another time long ago.

    In the clothing industry quality standards are a movable feast. Tolerances in measurement - to just name one area - are such that if it was cars they were making there would be multiple crashes, deaths and class action lawsuits (law suits! fnar fnar). There is no enforced international standard on sizes and there are not really any national standards. So like Alice in Wonderland words can mean precisely what you want them to mean. Terms only rely on understanding and consensus. Slim fit, Tailored fit, High rise, comfort fit, traditional fit - all have no meaning except what you want - marketing

    There is nothing, other than some understanding amongst some people, that says fully canvassed = a floating canvass; that is, not glued anywhere but is stitched. There is no (legal) misrepresentation in saying a suit is fully canvassed even if it is fused. Just as you can claim a suit is "bespoke" even if its made in a factory. There was even a court case, on behalf of Saville Row companies, in UK upholding the right to use bespoke for almost anything you want. You can also call yourself a tailor despite never having stitched or cut a garment in your life.

    However the CR website does say floating chest piece. That does strongly suggest or claim that the chest piece isn't fused but is stitched /floating.

    In other news I've just had a visitor at the door who has handed me a lovely present of a cover - only cover sadly - with a few illustrations inside of men's "Tailoring Patterns Summer Season 1906 - 1907"

    I'll scan some later its a big size
     
    Last edited: Feb 1, 2014
  19. lennier

    lennier Senior member

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    Joe Black is part of the Cambridge group. Also Dom Bagnato it seems: http://cambridgeclothing.com.au/
     
  20. fxh

    fxh Senior member

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    Ah yeah I did see that but I think that they aren't owned by Cambridge NZ but that Dom Bagnato and others, like Joe Black, get their designs made by Cambridge in NZ. Dom Bagnato used to use Travellers Apparel to make their stuff back in the 90s? or so.

    Its all a bit murky.

    But basically as I understand if its a suit Made in NZ it can only be either Cambridge or Rembrandt who make it.
     
    Last edited: Feb 1, 2014
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