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Australian Members

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by earthdragon, Nov 18, 2008.

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  1. JohnsNotHere

    JohnsNotHere Senior member

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    Last I checked (2009), nicely made half-canvassed SCs that were cut a little loose.

    But TBH, IMO if they don't fit, it doesn't matter how nicely made they are... [​IMG]


    Hell yes, hence leaving on the rack. Funny how the sales person was adament it was fine and couldn't understand why I didn't buy it [​IMG]

    Maybe an option for others though.
     
  2. fxh

    fxh Senior member

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    It's doin' me 'ead in guv.
    Trying on jackets that is.

    It seems as if these days there is no such thing as a standard size. I have to try everything from a 38L to 40R and 42R. And even then nothing fits quite right. Sizes seem all over the place. BTW I'm not being too fussy either.

    I'll admit I'm a bit not standard - I'm about 19" across shoulders but 42 chest and a 31.5" length.

    In an ideal world I'd find a 41R and it would fit. Most 40Rs fit across shoulders but can't be done up successfully without being too tight looking. and 42Rs can be ok to do up but too big everywhere else.

    I hardly ever do jackets up so it's not all bad to go 40R but it would be nice to have a proper fit.

    Other than MTM or bespoke do any brands have a 41R or do any brands publish their measurements?

    The tailor guy says go 42R - chest is most important - and he'll alter the rest. But I don't understand how he will fix shoulders. btw I'm not after a super tight fit at all - but i do like a bit of shape.


    Any suggestions?

    update:I just had a look at bookster used on ebay. At least they have measurements. Now all I have to do is find a sport jacket rather than a hacking or shooting jacket in a colour and size I want. Anyone had experience with them?
     
  3. apropos

    apropos Senior member

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    The tailor guy says go 42R - chest is most important - and he'll alter the rest. But I don't understand how he will fix shoulders. btw I'm not after a super tight fit at all - but i do like a bit of shape.
    That is absolutely wrong. Everything starts with the shoulders - when observing someone in a jacket, I start at the shoulders and progress down. Think about it - you are likely to do so as well. And let's face it - if we are talking about worst-case scenarios at the end of the day a jacket with shoulders that fit perfect but with a chest that is a shade too tight can still be worn unbuttoned and potentially look great, but a jacket with shoulders shot to hell will always look bad - no matter how you wear it. A chest is also much easier to take in than a shoulder, and shoulder alterations have so much more potential to go wrong.
     
  4. Journeyman

    Journeyman Senior member

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    It's doin' me 'ead in guv.
    Trying on jackets that is.

    It seems as if these days there is no such thing as a standard size. I have to try everything from a 38L to 40R and 42R. And even then nothing fits quite right. Sizes seem all over the place. BTW I'm not being too fussy either.

    I'll admit I'm a bit not standard - I'm about 19" across shoulders but 42 chest and a 31.5" length.

    In an ideal world I'd find a 41R and it would fit. Most 40Rs fit across shoulders but can't be done up successfully without being too tight looking. and 42Rs can be ok to do up but too big everywhere else.

    I hardly ever do jackets up so it's not all bad to go 40R but it would be nice to have a proper fit.

    Other than MTM or bespoke do any brands have a 41R or do any brands publish their measurements?

    The tailor guy says go 42R - chest is most important - and he'll alter the rest. But I don't understand how he will fix shoulders. btw I'm not after a super tight fit at all - but i do like a bit of shape.


    Any suggestions?

    update:I just had a look at bookster used on ebay. At least they have measurements. Now all I have to do is find a sport jacket rather than a hacking or shooting jacket in a colour and size I want. Anyone had experience with them?



    Look for a slim-fitting 42 with narrower shoulders, perhaps?
    Herringbone's Osaka cut and some of the RL Polo suits have slimmer shoulders and a slimmer cut in general, with less padding than quite a few other brands, so that might suit you.

    Otherwise, perhaps you might consider looking for a brand that makes a size 40 with wider shoulders!

    Your tailor is correct in that it is possible to bring in the shoulders of a jacket but I would argue against it unless it is absolutely necessary, mainly because it will cost a lot. It's also a reasonably complex operation, as to narrow the shoulders, your tailor would need to detach the sleeves, take out any shoulder padding, either replace the padding or re-set it, and then re-attach the sleeves, taking care to maintain any pattern matching and making sure to get the angle (the sleeve pitch) right.

    Unless he is incredibly cheap, it will probably cost you about $180 per jacket that you have done.
     
  5. fxh

    fxh Senior member

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    That is absolutely wrong.

    Everything starts with the shoulders - when observing someone in a jacket, I start at the shoulders and progress down. Think about it - you are likely to do so as well.

    And let's face it - if we are talking about worst-case scenarios at the end of the day a jacket with shoulders that fit perfect but with a chest that is a shade too tight can still be worn unbuttoned and potentially look great, but a jacket with shoulders shot to hell will always look bad - no matter how you wear it.

    A chest is also much easier to take in than a shoulder, and shoulder alterations have so much more potential to go wrong.


    Basically this is what I think. A jacket is often only done up for photos anyway and I can always suck it all in a bit for 1 minute. Mind you outside of places like this most people cant tell if a jacket is 1" too big on shoulders. Come to think of it most of the time neither can I tell if a its a tad big or small.

    It's such a pity one can't rely on stores to have staff that can tell you how something fits.

    Maybe there could be a Phone an iGent hotline where one could call up a SF gent to come and help try on clothes and give honest feedback.

    Trouble is I'd be worried if I got the wrong person I could end up spending $5,000 (+ $250 on a pocket square), to be dressed like a cross between Maxwell Smart and Pee Wee Herman with a haircut to match but with 5" cuffs on my pants that stop two inches above my shoes.
     
  6. CHECKstar

    CHECKstar Senior member

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    Mar 29, 2010
    Location:
    Melbourne
    Hi All. First post here (so please be gentle!). Just interested in hearing peoples opinions of Farage suits? I was in one of their stores the other day and a couple of suits took my fancy. Also I have noted that their winter range includes a few three piece suits.
     
  7. fxh

    fxh Senior member

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    That is absolutely wrong.

    Everything starts with the shoulders - when observing someone in a jacket, I start at the shoulders and progress down. Think about it - you are likely to do so as well.

    And let's face it - if we are talking about worst-case scenarios at the end of the day a jacket with shoulders that fit perfect but with a chest that is a shade too tight can still be worn unbuttoned and potentially look great, but a jacket with shoulders shot to hell will always look bad - no matter how you wear it.

    A chest is also much easier to take in than a shoulder, and shoulder alterations have so much more potential to go wrong.


    I think that most tailors here ( I really mean the two that I've used) are older guys who prefer a bit of padding and structure on the shoulder, even if it goes out a bit more than SFers would prefer, to less padding or softer shoulders. I suspect in a way they are right for most people as long as its not overdone.
     
  8. fxh

    fxh Senior member

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    Melbourne
    Hi All. First post here (so please be gentle!). Just interested in hearing peoples opinions of Farage suits? I was in one of their stores the other day and a couple of suits took my fancy. Also I have noted that their winter range includes a few three piece suits.

    I did a quick search in the search styleforum box and farage did come up - how useful the info is I don't know. It might answer some of your questions
     
  9. __PG__

    __PG__ Senior member

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    Some of the Farage shop attendants say their suits are half-canvassed...other shop attendants have no idea.

    They offer made-to-measure.

    It looks like they are going after the higher end of the market similar to Herringbone.

    I do have a nice Farage tie but the colours of the suits are a bit bland for my tastes.
     
  10. Prince of Paisley

    Prince of Paisley Senior member

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    From what I've heard Farage MTM involves, for example, taking the arms of a larger size suit and putting them on a smaller sized one, in lieu of lengthening the arms. My experience would seem to support the argument that they do this - I tried two suits on in the same size and style - one had sleeves about 2in to short, the other was about 1in too long.

    I also find their suits are cut a bit boxy for my taste and build, and the quality is not on a par with Herringbone (although the price is). I would say they are closer to Rhodes & Beckett in quality (and style for that matter). I've found the suits never drape as well as the window displays suggest, and as a rather tall chap I often have sleeve/pant length issues.

    Their ties are nice, though I once laughed in the SA's when I enquired about a pocket square that cost "$120". They also sell some self-labelled Blake stitched shoes that are from the same Spanish maker used by Arthur Galan, though the AG versions go on sale more regularly and you can often pick a pair up for 1/2 the price Farage charge.
     
  11. Prince of Paisley

    Prince of Paisley Senior member

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    What are your guys thoughts on Rodd and Gunn? Some of their sports coats look ok (although when I tried one on it didn't fit in the shoulders).

    Rodd & Gunn have some nice stuff - I think they are trying to go higher-end, almost like a Kiwi version of RL. They are certainly more upmarket than Sportscraft, and some of their Italian leather goods are really nice, though pricey.

    For most Aussies I would suggest having a look at R&G for some smart casual/casual Friday stuff. Last I saw the stuff is also still mostly Kiwi-made as it always has been, and that probably helps keep the quality high.
     
  12. JohnsNotHere

    JohnsNotHere Senior member

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    Rodd & Gunn have some nice stuff - I think they are trying to go higher-end, almost like a Kiwi version of RL. They are certainly more upmarket than Sportscraft, and some of their Italian leather goods are really nice, though pricey.

    For most Aussies I would suggest having a look at R&G for some smart casual/casual Friday stuff. Last I saw the stuff is also still mostly Kiwi-made as it always has been, and that probably helps keep the quality high.


    While on the subject of "kiwi-made", has anyone had any experience with Rembrandt or Cambridge suits? Thoughts?
     
  13. Henry Carter

    Henry Carter Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Rembrant brings back memories! I had a great pair of Rembrant pants about 13 years ago when I was 17, one of my first nice pairs of pants. They were great back then but who know's how things change in 13 years. FJ's was still making Australian Made Clothing back then too and look at it now.

    I've been quitely impressed by R&G over the last year or so, they seem to be getting better and better, but no where slim enough for my 6 foot 2 runners build. I buy heaps of it for my dad though who has a short stubby englishman's appearance....

    Off to Sydney next week for a few days to pay a visit to Herringbone and hopefully pick up a new suit. I have changes my mind from the Patrick Johnson route after I bought 2 new pairs of shoes in the last week. I will prob get the dark grey core 3 roll 2.
     
  14. TheWraith

    TheWraith Senior member

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    Rembrandt actually do MTM suits, but they're half canvassed with plastic buttons.
     
  15. ricotta

    ricotta Well-Known Member

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    i stopped by a Peter Jackson today hoping to see whether the range had changed since i bought my very first suit there.

    "excuse me.. could you tell me whether the suits are canvassed or fused?"
    "canvas?"
    "yeah."
    "they're wool. most of our suits are wool.."

    and this wasn't even one of the younger guys :S

    to be fair, part of me is a little annoyed that i expect this kind of knowledge of the general SA populace. SF corrupts.
     
  16. fxh

    fxh Senior member

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    to be fair, part of me is a little annoyed that i expect this kind of knowledge of the general SA populace. SF corrupts.
    Ask Andy corrupts. SF corrupts absolutely. He's an obsessive iGent. You read SF occasionally. I'm well dressed.
     
  17. AriGold

    AriGold Senior member

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    Hey guys,

    I suggest paying a visit to the herringbone outlet before saturday if you are a size 40 and above.
     
  18. Prince of Paisley

    Prince of Paisley Senior member

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    I was actually thinking of doing just that - but why the urgency? Are they preparing a purge of all >sz40 stock?
     
  19. AriGold

    AriGold Senior member

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    theres been a drop yday, and i picked up some of last season's suiting at $300.
     
  20. neyus

    neyus Senior member

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    Rembrandt make fairly nice trousers... They have machine pick stitching on the fly front and around the pockets and they are finished nicely inside around the waistband and inside pocketing and they have ad seperate crotch piece. As far ad I know they stll made in new Zealand. I don't think much of their suits though they usually pick sone nice fabrics.cad usual the suits ate quite boxy. The trousers I have owned have held up well over the years and have outlasted the trousers I have bought from lands end.
    R
    I don't think much of Rodd and gunn. They do occasionally have nice shoes or ties or leather goods and occassionally they have a fairly nice sportscoat or something but generally it's nit that good really.
     
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