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Australian Members

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by earthdragon, Nov 18, 2008.

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  1. Osiris2012

    Osiris2012 Senior member

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    Being stuck in an organisational apparatus that rewards time served more than actual results achieved? Least of which - to bring back to these boards - you will be joining a collective of the most poorly dressed people on the planet. Jokes of the PS aside, poorly fitting suits and outfits as well as a general air of caring little about style is the trademark of the public service employees. I'm normally against making broad sweeping generalisations from working in the structure and living in Canberra for many years I feel the shoe fits.
     
  2. PapaRubbery

    PapaRubbery Senior member

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    Don't knock the PS.

    Once they've fucked up royally enough, they pay many multitudes of one's hourly rate to be consulted about what they did wrong.
     
  3. Oli2012

    Oli2012 Senior member

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    I wtfed because they were recruited at a time when Canberra's looking to slash jobs.

    That said, apart from the DPP, EPA or AGS there's few government departments I'd want to work for. In most other departments not a lot of legal work actually goes on.
     
    Last edited: Aug 23, 2013
  4. Journeyman

    Journeyman Senior member

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    I suppose that it all comes down to what you want in clothing. Do you want top quality but without a name attached, do you want top quality with a name attached (and pay a premium for the name), or do you not really care about quality and just want the name?

    Tom Ford suits are good, there's no doubt about it, but there are other makers, such as Borrelli and some of the other top-line Italian places which are just as good, if not better, and which are less expensive. If I remember correctly, Tom Ford's suits are made in a Zegna facility, but to a style and standard dictated by Tom Ford. You're paying for quality, but you're also definitely paying for the Tom Ford name and the signature look. If you like that look, then well and good, but before laying out many thousands, consider whether the look actually suits you first.

    I haven't had a look at Paul Smith for quite a while as I've really been turned off what I've seen in DJs because of the various features used on quite a few of the suits that I saw, such as a double lapel buttonhole or, in some cases, contrasting stitching for the buttonholes. I think that PS suits (and be aware that there are, or used to be, a couple of different lines of differing quality) are reasonable but, once again, you're certainly paying a premium to have Sir Paul's name attached to the product.

    Well, Oroton's quality is poor and has been going downhill for years. Most of their bags are now made in China and the leather is often poor quality, does not wear well, and the bags are made from several smaller pieces per section, rather than one large section of hide per side, as that also cuts down costs.

    Personally, if Oroton wants to own a particular market segment, I think that they'd be better off focussing on quality instead of branding and marketing, but that's just me...
     
  5. TehBunny

    TehBunny Senior member

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    Anyone who makes it to Cleverley Trunkshow at Doublemonk please post pictures (adding to the ones Doublemonk will undoubtedly have up_; sadly can't make it (consider suicide?)!
     
  6. iSurg

    iSurg Senior member

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    Went but sadly did not take photos. I am low key like that.

    Saw some mad bespoke shoes, ie gator, some weird bird leather, hippo. Exotic swatches include frog skin. Mad mad. Also the GC double monks are now added to my grail list along with the churchills. Such a nice last. I prefer it to Lobb actually.
     
    1 person likes this.
  7. Journeyman

    Journeyman Senior member

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    That's a new one - I've heard of shoes made from lots of different things, but not frogs.

    Unless they use particularly large frogs, I'd think that it would be difficult as the shoes would have to have lots of seams on them.

    (I really can't believe that I'm even thinking about the practicality of making a pair of shoes from frogs...)
     
  8. Hayward

    Hayward Senior member

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    Are you sure? Frog? Or Toad?

     
  9. TehBunny

    TehBunny Senior member

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  10. Petepan

    Petepan Senior member

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    I am only familiar with Paul Smith Byard suits. These are half canvassed, Made in Italy (probably by Chinese workers), pick stitching on lapels and seams, MOP material buttons, ticket pocket, non surgeon cuffs with kissing style buttons. The fabric material varies quite widely, so you need to be selective. The cut is slim fitting, and the lapels are on the skinny side, but not overly so, compared to say Burberry London slim cuts.

    The best selling one is the Petrol Blue, and most places are asking for more than $1000 for it. That IMO is a stupid price to pay for PS byard suits. You can find them on ebay for around $500, but selection would be limited, and certainly not the popular colors or fabric such as Petrol Blue or Grey flannel. I reckon below $500 would be okay, especially if you are not really fussed about advertising for Sir Paul.

    There is the Westbourne cut in the same line. The PS is a lower line, and the Mainline is more expensive but is full canvassed.
     
  11. FredAstaire1899

    FredAstaire1899 Senior member

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    I believe Tom Ford is made in the same factory as the Zegna Couture suits http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com.au/2010/10/tom-ford.html. Since looking at a Tom Ford suits, I felt that the Zegna Couture quality may have dropped.

    In any case, the gap between the MJ Bale Japanese and Zegna Mainline is not as large as one might think. To me it is mostly in the pattern, slightly better quality fabric and a tad more shape. I hope it won't be too long before an Asian suit maker makes a Brioni quality suit for $2 K, but marketing an Asian suit at that price point would be tricky.
     
  12. California Dreamer

    California Dreamer Senior member

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    Went to DM today to try on some black cap toes (just coincidentally). It was pretty busy still, and I saw at least 3 guys order Cleverley MTO RTW shoes in the half hour or so I was there. So I guess it has been a success for them.

    It briefly crossed my mind to look into it, but I really can't justify the money for just a pair of black cap toes. A pair of midnight blue oxfords might have been interesting, or maybe some loafers, where I have a lot of trouble getting ones that fit. I looked at their brochure and didn't really like the loafers, so that was that. I bought a boring pair of black C&J Connaughts instead.
     
  13. FredAstaire1899

    FredAstaire1899 Senior member

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    I'm presently looking for a cap toe oxford from C&J. I do prefer a hand grade, but for me a round toe looks nicer in that style. I'd be interested to know why you didn't go for another Audley, does the Connaught look more elegant side by side? Do the bench grades give up anything in terms of comfort due to the lack of the full sock liner?

    I'd also be interested if you took the same size in the Connaught as the Audley?

    Thanks.
     
  14. Romp

    Romp Senior member

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    is that a reference to me?

    Either way im not following how does your preference for MJ Bale and Paul Smith coincides with your preference for the extremes? They are pretty mainstream, middle ground.

    Extreme would be Lowes/Kelly Country vs bespoke savile rowe/naples based suit maker
     
  15. Geoffrey Firmin

    Geoffrey Firmin Senior member

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    Yes there is a God Tigers 34 V Dragons 18 now if only the Wallablies can roll the AB's
     
  16. sliq

    sliq Senior member

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    instability, i.e. only 3-4 months contracts if you're employed as a full time temp
     
  17. Halifax

    Halifax Senior member

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    Make the pain stop... :'(
     
  18. iSurg

    iSurg Senior member

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    I can confirm that the swatch said "black frog" and the skin looked like a little frog splayed out. Should've taken a photo. I guess it's a case of pics or it didn't happen.
     
  19. California Dreamer

    California Dreamer Senior member

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    Gents, had a lovely morning in my pet op shop today. Cross-post from the thrift thread. Mostly a full-on tie day today, nearly all of them in the one place, stashed on a hanger right up the back. The manager gave me a 25% discount for buying so many too. NWT Zegna and Gucci [​IMG] Much more below.
    Brionis. [​IMG] Some recent Zegnas [​IMG] Zegna Couture, I think. Can someone verify this label for me please? [​IMG] Some older Zegnas. The solid blue one is cotton, but lovely and soft. [​IMG] Nice no-name pocket square and silk scarf [​IMG] [​IMG] Ingram shirt [​IMG] Les Copains navy wool slacks. Anybody know who makes these? The label says F.B.P Italia Spa [​IMG] Brioni polo with enamelled metal buttons [​IMG]
     
  20. California Dreamer

    California Dreamer Senior member

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    I wasn't sold on the idea of getting the Audleys in black when I already have them in brown. Seems a bit too samey. I tried on some Hallams in 10.5E, but felt they were too tight in the vamp for me. I tried the more rounded Connaughts but the 10.5E was too loose in the heel. We sized down to a 10E, and they were pretty much perfect. I never thought I'd feel like I was taking the cheap option buying C&Js, but all these ballers in the room dropping a grand on Cleverleys made me feel a little boring and inadequate. :)
     
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