Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by earthdragon, Nov 18, 2008.
What model is that one?
ive got both - i prefer black in the new minis with the blackish reverse too
this - need more shoes in rotation + shoe trees to help with the between wear
1) if you put on new pair on just the front rather than heel it changes the balance of the shoe and put pressure on the arch and heel attachment. If you do both it makes the sole feel alot thicker (imo). Ive done both - the first one my shoe at the heel cracked, the second made me look like i had really thick soles and were ugly so i never wore them
2) if you put on an old sole i find that water still impacts especially around the ball of foot and where it bends (because 3mm above the topy is the worn leather from before) and it gets in and weakens the mid flex point of my soles.
try hunt leather
the US bisonte shop doesnt have all the models.
The closest is this http://shop.ilbisonte.com/au/wallet-neri-cognac_C0437XXPXXUXX214XX.html
but its in cognac (doesnt age) rather than vachetta/natural
I do like the pebbly-grain better than the smooth hide.. so you'd need to sort through the wallets to find the grain that you prefer.
Black with a black leather cover for an aesthetic look
yeah you need to hold it more/put it in the sun ... you will know when the patina will slow down because the leather starts to go a bit shiny
here is mine after 3 yrs ...ive stopped using it for now .. using a Ottino Lambskin wallet now because its lighter/thinner
This is my approach as well, some shoes coming up for treatment soon I think!
Problem is that you don't get a choice of rubber or leather soles on every pair of quality shoes you might like for other reasons (like, quality). Personally I don't care much if the final layer in contact with the ground is leather or rubber, hence once the leather starts to get worn I'll protect it from further wear by adding a replaceable rubber layer. Each to their own of course.
I was wearing my Lindricks on a dry sunny day when I slipped on the smooth paving stones on the corner of Collins and Spencer streets near the Age building and fell on the road. I topy'd them the next day - no issues since and I don't care what anyone else thinks..
Mensbiz is stocking samples of some Penhaglion's fragrances, I think you only pay shipping. I think I'll try the Blenheim Bouquet, I love citrus.
EDIT: Seems like a subscribers only offer, here are the links to the samples.
Talking of resoles who does a decent Blake resole in OZ?
* On topies / wet weather shoes, I've never really bothered. I'll even wear my EG in the rain...
If GN topys his shoes, it is the right thing to do (no sarcasm).
Appreciate the vote of confidence, Michael but I have to say, to each his own. My decision to get topy applied to the boots was dictated by practicality (and my own wellbeing!) more than anything else.
This is what I fear, re: topying shoes.
I'm getting a couple pairs of Loake 1880's (Aldwych) and fear the mass it will add to the soles. Thoughts?
It's a couple of millimetres. Makes no difference.
There are some interesting opinions at http://www.styleforum.net/t/179041/my-first-shoes-with-topy-put-on/0_30. In particular, I found this quite interesting given that Nick is from B Nelson.
Originally Posted by Nick V.
This debate has been discussed many times in this forum. It really comes down to personal preference.
Some no matter what, prefer walking on and the look of leather. Breath-ability has no impact. Nor does flexibility or balance. I never lost a debate with a maker regarding said.
So, these comments regard economics only:
I am using averages here. Everybody's different.
Generally, sole guards last twice as long as a 9-10 iron leather sole. Assume it takes you a year to wear out a pair of leather soles. If you were using sole guards it would take two years to wear them out. Factor in the cost of replacing the leather soles and time if you are sending them back to the maker. Maybe bringing them to a shoddy repair shop that may screw them up. Compare that to every other year replacing the sole guard at less than half the price of a new sole. Also almost any repair shop can do this without error. Do the math, if a shoe lasts 20 years what is the difference in terms of the cost factor? Add the other benefits of sole guards. To me the overall value is incomparable.
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