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CHECKstar

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I wouldn't be too worried about the creases - you are in reasonable company.

1000


I have a (very) vague recollection that pressing the jacket sleeve like such is commonly how military jackets are pressed and might even be referred to as a ‘military press’ or something like that...
 
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Pink Socks

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Don't mind being in Charles' company, although he at least has full sleeve creases and presumably they're deliberate (but still weird if you ask me lol).


It is very deliberate (like all of Charles' sartorial decisions). One of my favourite Charles photographs shows the pressed sleeve quite clearly.

700


At one time the practice was standard, even by commercial dry cleaners before automated pressing machines. It's of military derivation. The crease on the back of the sleeve also facilitates proper sleeve drape when hanging, and folding within luggage. Chuck's jacket sleeves have always been creased.


It's a practice apparently now as archaic as a neat vertical crease in one's shirt's collar - center back, which is the finishing touch to hand pressing a collar from the front edges backward. The process limits collar front wrinkling.


More details/discussion here - http://www.styleforum.net/t/135631/creases-in-jacket-sleeves-hrh-pow/0_50

Back in sunny (and too bloody hot) Melbourne now after a nice break, including a wonderful trip to Vietnam. I took a punt on the tailoring in Hoi An (which is, rightly, usually rated as not great quality or value for money) and got a unlined cotton M65 made up in navy based on this Boglioli one - http://linenforsummertweedforwinter...2379/jhilla-boglioli-m-65-boglioli-knows-blue. Was a bit of fun and am happy with the result for the money.

Glad to be back in Australia, though not so glad to be back at work (surprising really?). Walking home yesterday I saw a middle aged man in a suit and flip flops which kind of sums up Australian menswear (with notable exceptions, including those here) and everything I love and hate about living here in one, hopefully not to be again, sartorial mess.
 

elisiX

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working for me on my phone and iPad. the discount comes off the total at the bottom not the individual price, so just scroll down and check that.

8uk should be ok for a large and 6uk would be a medium. think there is only m left in a few staples now.

cheers

Thanks.

Just snapped up 5 pairs in L.
 

thebrownman

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Not going to lie, I've missed you Pink Socks.

I even wore pink socks to work last week. Twice.
 

fxh

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Perhaps I'm just too picky, but this all seems like very poor attention to detail to me, something I see all too often in too many industries unfortunately :(

Don't mind being in Charles' company, although he at least has full sleeve creases and presumably they're deliberate (but still wierd if you ask me lol).


Its fairly common for the English and I suspect it comes from the military where at least some for them require creased sleeves - I think the police here used to do it too.

1000
1000

edit:: I see Pinky beat me to it.

I think if you could have your photo snapped at Pitti with creased sleeves a quarter way up, and an open necked shirt 4 buttons undone, highwater pants and NO SOCKS with say light green suede driving shoes you'd find people copying it all over the world.
 
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streetminimal

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Very informative review, streetminimal. Given that the PJ shirt arrived via mail, I'm assuming this was bought from their online shop. Is that right?


Yep! Free post also.
 

thebrownman

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Who here owns Cheaney shoes? I've been especially pleased with the standard of their Classic Collection.

And, their Imperial Signature line with fiddleback waists and channeled soles looks especially lovely.
 

Journeyman

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Who here owns Cheaney shoes? I've been especially pleased with the standard of their Classic Collection.

And, their Imperial Signature line with fiddleback waists and channeled soles looks especially lovely.


I've got a couple of pairs of the "Cheaney for Herringbone" collection from a few years back.

Whilst they were overpriced at full price (which was no doubt why they had a truckload of them to sell at the warehouse sales once they started stocking C&Js), they're nice, well-made shoes.
 

Romp

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I agree with the above.

The Henry Carter sale is excellent value, particularly using the SF code for an additional 10% discount.

However, in my experience, cotton Pantherellas do tend to shrink and "dry out" a bit (if that makes sense) after a while. The socks get a bit smaller and the material feels a bit stiffer and less silky after ten or twenty washes. So, whilst they do last a long time and I haven't had any develop holes, I personally don't like them as much as Marcoliani or Bresciani.

Yeah i like bresciani the best but at $14 these pantherellas still represent great value
 

Journeyman

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After a bit of a break due to an all-too-brief family holiday, here is today's outfit:

700


700


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Details:

- Charcoal suit by Herringbone Sydney;
- White and blue pencil-stripe shirt by Borrelli;
- Navy tie with origami crane print by Emporio Armani (1996 - one of the oldest ties that I have that I still wear);
- Burgundy Pantherella cotton socks; and
- Chocolate-brown, plain captoe balmorals from Zegna's "fatte a mano" line.
 

burnso

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Who here owns Cheaney shoes? I've been especially pleased with the standard of their Classic Collection.

And, their Imperial Signature line with fiddleback waists and channeled soles looks especially lovely.
I do, the 'Herring Baldwin'. Built on the 11028 last.
My best pair of shoes, unfortunately they are a lighter colour than expected (dark leaf) so harder for me to wear atm.

What pairs do you have, and where are you buying them from?

I was just having a browse again (http://www.cheaney.co.uk/mens-shoes/1/classic) and appreciate the feedback re. the Classic Collection quality. They of course look beautiful, as do the Imperial line. Im certain Id be happy with any of their range TBH.
 

Prince of Paisley

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After a bit of a break due to an all-too-brief family holiday, here is today's outfit:

700


700


700



Details:

- Charcoal suit by Herringbone Sydney;
- White and blue pencil-stripe shirt by Borrelli;
- Navy tie with origami crane print by Emporio Armani (1996 - one of the oldest ties that I have that I still wear);
- Burgundy Pantherella cotton socks; and
- Chocolate-brown, plain captoe balmorals from Zegna's "fatte a mano" line.


You *may* cop some stick for that tie from others but I like it, and how you wear it. Actually I'd even approve of it more with a tie bar - a nod to Willy Loman in his Studebaker a little above Yonkers.
 

JimmyHoffa

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I think the origami tie is excellent! I want one! It is a real swanky design.
1996, when the width of your tie said something about your anatomy....those were the days.
Actually, I lie, I think I was still wearing white fluffy pillows in 1996.

Seeing as we are talking about winter clothing, my navy Drakes cashmere gloves and lambswool scarf arrived from E.T today. Because Shaya was a week or two late in shipping it all out, he threw another pair of cashmere gloves in. Shaya = legend. Anyway, lambswool scarf by Drakes, knitted in Scotland might be a bit overkill for a typical winter in Sydney, but the gloves, which are also knitted in Scotland, should be fine. Oh, and I also tried one of his cotton/linen scarves; perfect for April/May.
 
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Prince of Paisley

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Its fairly common for the English and I suspect it comes from the military where at least some for them require creased sleeves - I think the police here used to do it too.

1000
1000


I take your point here but it's probably little consolation for poor old Lenny!

Parade uniforms or even strong shouldered British/Atlantic suits of the early C20th are one thing, but creased sleeves probably don't look as well on an MJ Bale soft shouldered jobbie (I think I recall he bought it from MJB or I could be imagining it...) Also, I doubt his alterations tailor had Chicka in mind when he put the jacket sleeves into a trouser press rather than steaming the creases out; sounds more like carelessness to me.

Lenny probably the best way forward is to take to a dry cleaner and ask them to press it, you might ask the retailer to pay for this as there seems no reason why you should be out of pocket for their (or their nominated tailor's) mistake.
 
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